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The general plan of Bath is easily grasped. The river throws itself round the city like an elbow, and in the corner of land thus embraced the streets are laid out something in the manner of an irregular chess board. One main thoroughfare runs from the S. gate, and climbs by a gradual ascent northwards; and as it goes, expands into the spacious shopping quarters of Milsom Street. Another good string of streets runs from the Abbey also northwards, and on its course extends a long arm eastwards across the river to the suburb of Bathwick.

The chief sights, the Abbey, Pump Room, Roman Baths and Guildhall, lie grouped together in convenient proximity. The imposing terraces, squares and crescents of the once fashionable residential quarters are to be found chiefly on the N. and W. sides of the city. A pretty view of Pulteney Bridge with its singular parapet of shops may be obtained from the terrace at the back of the Municipal Buildings.

The chief public buildings are the Pump Room, rebuilt in 1796, and considerably extended in recent times; the Guildhall, built in 1768-75, containing some good portraits; the Upper Assembly Rooms ; the Royal Institution , on the site of the old Assembly Rooms, the scene of Nash's triumphs; the Mineral Water Hospital ; and the Holbourne Art Museum . Hetling House in Hetling Court was once a mansion of the Hungerfords. The public grounds are the Victoria Park, Sydney Gardens, Henrietta Park, and the Institute Gardens .

"These walls, adorned with monument and bust, Show how Bath waters serve to lay the dust."

Among objects and places of interest in the outskirts of the city that deserve a visit are Sham Castle, an artificial antique on Bathwick Hill; Widcombe Old Church ; the chapel of St Mary Magdalen in Holloway ; Beckford's Tower on Lansdowne, and Combe Down .

Bath gives its name, with sometimes more and sometimes less justification, to quite a number of articles, including Bath stone, Bath buns, Bath olivers, Bath chaps, Bath chairs, and Bath bricks .

An ancient bridge across the Tone carries the road to Nynehead and Milverton: the parapet is modern.

CASTLE CARY, a small market town at S.E. corner of the county, with a station at the junction of the G.W.R. Weymouth line with the Langport loop. Its population in 1901 was 1904. The town has a pleasant air of old-fashionedness about it. The castle which gave it its name long since disappeared from history, and until recently from knowledge. It was only in 1890 that its site was revealed. Some excavations in a field at the bottom of Lodge Hill brought to light the foundations of a large square Norm. keep. Its outlines are now marked by pillars. It seems to have acquired notoriety chiefly in the disorderly days of Stephen. The Church possesses a good spire, and is conspicuously situated. But though outwardly picturesque, it has little of interest within. Note, however, piscina in chancel, oak screen, carved pulpit, panel and canopied effigy over S. porch. There is also a shallow font on a pedestal of curious design.

The village itself is not particularly picturesque. In its centre is an ancient hexagonal cross of no great merit, and much doctored. The cheeses for which Cheddar is also famous are not the exclusive product of the locality but are extensively made throughout Somerset. The church is worth inspection. It is a fine Perp. building, with a lofty W. tower of four stages. It has triple belfry windows, and a spired stair turret, but the shallowness of the buttresses detracts from its impressiveness. Within there is a good coloured roof, some Perp. screens, a good 15th-cent. stone pulpit , some carved benches, and a rich S. chantry chapel of the Fitz-Walters. In the sanctuary note the fine piscina and the brasses to the De Cheddars--one to Sir Thomas on a recessed altar-tomb on the N., and a smaller one to his wife on the floor below. The piers of the arcade stand on some curious bases, probably the foundations of earlier columns. The general effect of the interior is spoilt by the fantastic modern colouring at the E. end.

A fine view is obtainable by crossing the hill on the N. which separates Christon from Hutton.

CLEVEDON, a watering-place 12 m. W. of Bristol, reached by a line from Yatton. A light railway thrown across the intervening mud flats connects it directly with Weston. The population in 1901 was 5898. Like Weston, Clevedon is the outcome of the modern craze for health resorts. It is now a fashionable collection of comfortable villas, profusely disposed over the W. and N. slopes of a range of hills which run with the channel on its way to Bristol. Though approached on the E. by miles of uninviting marshes, the situation of the town is pleasant and picturesque. Clevedon offers several points of contrast with its enterprising rival and neighbour. Besides other things it retains some remnants of ruder days. A humble row of cottages to the L. of the station, and an ancient church dumped down in a hollow of the W. headland, preserve the savour of a former simplicity. To one of these "pretty cots" Coleridge is said to have brought his bride in 1795. The reputed house still stands in Old Church Road, but the identification is now questioned. Along the sea-front there is a pleasant little promenade, flanked with turf and shrubs. The shore is rocky, and though the ebb tide uncovers a considerable stretch of mud in the bay, along the road to Walton the sea is never far away, even at low water. There is nothing romantically bold about the coast scenery, but it is pervaded by an air of quiet retirement much in keeping with its literary associations. The esplanade leads at one end to a pleasant walk along the cliffs in the direction of Walton, and at the other to a pathway across the meadows towards the "old church." The main interest of the church is its association with "In Memoriam," but archaeologically, too, it is well worth a visit. It is a building with a low central tower, which is pierced with some Norm, belfry windows, and rests upon fine Norm. arches N. and E., cut with rather unusual mouldings. The pointed arches leading to the nave and S. transept are later . The arcading of the nave is peculiar; above is a Perp. clerestory. A quaint little altar-tomb, with recumbent effigy of a child, stands on the S. side of the tower arch, and within the arch is a slab with the rudely incised figure of a knight. The S. transept is spacious. Beneath its floor lie the hero of "In Memoriam" and his father, H. Hallam, the historian. The memorial tablets in marble are hung against the W. wall. Note also the roof corbels, the windows, and the founder's niche. The corresponding chapel on the N. is unusually small, and deserves notice . In the nave remark Dec. W. window, defaced to carry modern glass, stone pulpit and adjoining window. In the porch is a staircase, said to have once led to a priest's chamber over the S. aisle. The other churches in the town are modern.

CREWKERNE, a market town of 4226 inhabitants, at the S. extremity of the county, on the borders of Dorset. The station, on the L. & S.W. line, is a mile away. Crewkerne is a clean and compact little place, with some reputation for the manufacture of sailcloth, twine, and shirts. The streets conveniently converge upon a central market-place. It has, however, few features of interest, with the exception of its church, which stands on rising ground above the market-place. This is a fine cruciform structure, with a central tower and a quite remarkable W. front. The doorway is enriched on either side by carved niches, and flanked by a pair of octagonal turrets. The W. window is good, and is surmounted by a niched dragon, which has lost its companion, St George. Externally should also be noted the vigorous, though defaced, series of gargoyles above the S. porch, representing an amateur orchestra; the remains of a stoup; the curious chamber at the S.E. end of the S. transept. This last is a unique feature; it is supposed to have been the cell of an anchorite. Beneath the E. window is a railing which marks the former existence of a sacristy . The original doorways communicating with it will be noticed inside. The interior is a trifle disappointing, and contains few features of interest. Observe, however, wooden groining to tower, windows and roof of N. transept, ancient square font on modern base. In the S. transept there are traces of an earlier church: here, too, note the image of St George. There are several brasses, but none of much interest. The earliest, on the chancel wall, bears date 1525. One in the S. transept carries a crest with a ludicrous resemblance to a well-known advertisement. Note also two old chests. On the N. side of the churchyard is an old building, once the grammar school, founded 1499. Some spacious new buildings for the school have now been erected outside the town, on the Yeovil road. The road to Chard, which crosses St Rayne's and Windwhistle Hills, is a breezy highway, and affords an extensive prospect.

HIGHBRIDGE, a growing little town on the Brue, 1-1/2 m. S.E. from Burnham. It has two stations, one on the G.W.R. main line to Taunton, the other on the S. & D. Burnham branch. It possesses a town-hall, a cattle market, and other evidences of prosperity. Brick and tile making are carried on in the locality, and a large bacon factory and a timber-yard are amongst its more important commercial undertakings. As the river is navigable up to this point for small craft it also encourages a coasting trade. Of antiquarian interest it has none. The church is as modern as the town.

ILCHESTER, a small, decayed town on the Ivel, 4-1/2 m. N.E. of Martock, which was formerly of considerable importance. Its name recalls the fact that it was a Roman station, and upon it several Roman roads converge. It was besieged in the strife between William Rufus and his brother Robert; and it was fortified in the Great Civil War. It once had a nunnery, and it was the birthplace of Roger Bacon, who was born here in 1214. But apart from its historic associations it has little now to attract attention, its only noteworthy building being its church . This has a short tower which is octagonal throughout and does not rest, like others elsewhere, upon a square base. Some Roman bricks seem to be among the materials of which it is constructed, and there are a few old pieces of carving built into the walls. The oldest parts of the building appear to date from E.E. times, but it has undergone a good deal of restoration. Note the E. window ; niches; squint. There is a market cross, consisting of a cylindrical pillar supporting a sundial . Though Ilchester is not now a borough, it was so once, and a very curious macehead is still preserved.

KEYNSHAM, a small town on the Chew near its confluence with the Avon. It has a station on the G.W. main line to Bristol. Pop. nearly 3000. It is a long straggling sort of place of not very lively appearance, resembling an overgrown village. Its history is rather romantic than reliable. Its patron saint, S. Keyne, a Welsh lady of exceptional sanctity, dwelt in a neighbouring wood much infested with serpents. The reptiles, not usually susceptible to the voice of the charmer, were at her intercession turned into stone--a fact to which the ammonites in the local quarry bear witness. St Keyne's name occurs also at Kentisford, near Watchet. Later, the town acquired a borrowed lustre from its association with one of the greater religious houses. In 1170 William of Gloster founded here on a magnificent scale a monastery of Austin Canons. This glory has now departed. The Reformation and the Bridges family between them made a clean sweep of everything. The abbey was used as a quarry for building the family mansion, which has by the irony of fate likewise disappeared. Monastic odds and ends may be discovered here and there worked into houses and garden walls. A gateway on the R. of lane leading to station is made up of such fragments. A heap of d?bris to the E. of the church indicates the whereabouts of the original buildings. The church is a spacious rather than an inspiring edifice. A massive W. tower was built in 1634 to replace a tower which stood at the E. end of the N. aisle, and was destroyed by a thunderstorm. The chancel is the most interesting part of the building, and should be examined externally where the original E.E. lancets are visible. Within, it has been converted into a kind of mausoleum for the Bridges family, some of whom are represented in effigy. Note the round-headed double piscina in sanctuary. The S. aisle is Dec., and contains a fine Perp. screen. The Caroline screen dividing the S. chapel from chancel should also be observed. The window tracery throughout the church is crude. A row of alms-houses near the Wingrove Hotel were founded by Sir T. Bridges. A Roman tessellated pavement was discovered in making the railway cutting, and was removed to Bristol.

MARTOCK is a small town 5-1/2 m. N.W. of Yeovil, consisting virtually of one long street. It has no historic associations to speak of, though in 1645 it was the scene of a public thanksgiving by the Parliament forces for the capture of Bridgwater. At the present time it is chiefly engaged in the manufacture of gloves and jute matting. The population is about 3000. It has a noble church, the earliest part of which is the E. wall . In it, on a level with the floor, is a large recess, perhaps intended for relics. The rest of the church is Perp. The tower is rather plain; but the nave is very impressive, being exceptionally lofty, and having a clerestory lighted by unusually large windows, divided by niches containing paintings of the Apostles. There is a good deal of panel-work, and a splendid oak roof, with embattled tie-beams. The pierced parapet is remarkably good. Note vault of S. porch; piscina in S. chapel, brass to George Bisse and wife . At the extremity of the graveyard is a defaced effigy.

Near the church are two ancient buildings. The one is a 14th-cent. manor house, with a hall lighted by windows that are square without and foliated within. Note oak roof, curious brackets. The other was formerly a grammar school, founded by William Strode of Barrington in 1661; note arms and motto. A small building, surrounded by a moat, is said to occupy the site of a manor house given to Lord Monteagle for bringing about the discovery of the Gunpowder Plot. The market cross is a column crowned by a sundial and ball .

MILVERTON, a small town of 1427 people, 4 m. N. of Wellington, with a station on the G.W.R. Barnstaple branch. It is a poor little place--more village than town--apparently existing on its past importance. It once had a flourishing market, and did a big business in woollen cloth. The church stands on a slight eminence, at the bottom of which lies the town. It is a good stately building without a clerestory, and is not quite in line with its tower, which is of the rough Exmoor type with a square turret flush with the E. face. The interior has a remarkable display of carved bench-ends . The screen is modern, but embodies some old panels. The aisles terminate peculiarly at the W. end in chambers surmounted by galleries. The font is Norm. The churchyard has the sculptured base of a cross. The vicarage is said to have once been the country residence of Cardinal Wolsey. The country round Milverton is pleasant, and some delightful views of the Quantocks are obtainable in the neighbourhood.

SHEPTON MALLET, a market town of 5238 inhabitants, on the S.E. slope of the Mendips, 5 m. E. from Wells. It has two railway stations, one putting it in touch with Bath and Templecombe, the other with Wells and Frome. The ancient Fosse Way skirts the town on the E. It is a place of some antiquity, deriving its name from its former connection with the Mallets of Curry Mallet, and has had a career of respectable commercial mediocrity. Cloth, crape, and knitted stockings once formed its staple trade; but its present prosperity rests chiefly on beer, a gigantic brewery being now its principal business institution. The town has few attractions for the casual visitor, for the streets are narrow and inconvenient without being venerable. It possesses, however, a remarkably fine late 15th-cent. hexagonal market-cross, crowned with a very graceful spirelet: note brass on one of the piers to Walter Buckland and Agnes, his wife. The church has a good W. Perp. tower , which has served probably as the model for some of its neighbours . The interior, originally E.E., was never handsome, and has been ruined artistically by the erection of some huge aisles, with galleries, which have absorbed the transepts. The wooden roof to the nave is, however, the most splendid in the county. It contains 350 panels, each displaying a different device. Note E.E. chancel and transeptal arches, and arcade of nave; fine 15th-cent. stone pulpit, double pillar piscinas, E.E.; effigies of knights in armour, supposed to be Mallets, stowed away on the window sills; organ chamber, once a double-floored vestry; old font and good brass to Wm. and Joan Strode of Barrington, beneath tower. The proximity of the town to the Fosse Way has led to the unearthing of several Roman remains, which may be inspected in the museum near the church. The foundations of a Roman brick-kiln were discovered on the site of the brewery. A few old houses--the relics of the old cloth-working days--may be found amongst the crowd of cottages on the banks of the stream. The road to Wells runs through a beautiful valley, which, by some sinister inspiration, has been chosen as the site of the town sewage works.

SOMERTON, a small town of nearly 2000 people, 7 m. S. of Glastonbury, with a station on the G.W.R. loop line from Castle Cary to Langport. Though centrally situated and occupying a prominent position on high ground, Somerton has all the appearance of a town which the world has forgotten. An air of placid decadence hangs about its old-fashioned streets, and few would guess that here was once the capital of the Somersaetas, the Saxon tribe from which Somerset derives its name. Beyond its possession of a small shirt and collar factory it has no pretensions to modern importance, and it has evidently done its best to cover up its traces of ancient dignity. Its castle has long ago been absorbed by the "White Hart" . A market cross of 1673, with an open arcade, still stands as the memorial of its former merchandise. The church is a good, dignified building, with one or two features of interest, notably a splendid panelled roof, which will repay inspection. An octagonal tower with a square E.E. chapel beneath it stands at the E. end of the S. aisle. The rest of the church is Dec. Within are a few old bench-ends, a dated pulpit and altar , and a somewhat incongruous reredos, which is said to have been originally a screen. Note in the N. chapel, 17th-cent. brass; in S. chapel, effigy of female ascribed to the 11th cent.; early piscina. In the wall of porch is a recess which might be either a niche or a stoup. After the Battle of Sedgemoor the key of the church was turned upon a batch of rebel prisoners, who relieved the tedium of their captivity by playing ball. Some of their balls are said to have been found in the roof during repairs. A good view of the surrounding country is obtained from the road to Langport.

The De Courcys had a castle here, of which there are a few fragmentary remains, including the base of two round towers. In the course of its history it underwent many changes of ownership, finally passing into the hands of 1457, during the Wars of the Roses, by Lord Bonville, brother-in-law of the Earl of Warwick.

A neighbouring farm contains some remains of an old 15th-cent. house, once the residence of the Berkeleys.

WELLINGTON, a market town 7 m. S.W. from Taunton, with a station on the main G.W. line to Exeter. Population, 7283. No one seems to know why the hero of Waterloo chose to immortalise this quiet little west-country town: he does not appear to have had any original connection with it. The reputation of Wellington, made by war, is now maintained by woollens. The town is girdled by large cloth and serge mills. In general appearance the place is not unprepossessing. The streets are wide and airy, and their arrangement compact, but the shops are poor, and create an impression of dullness. The only object of more than passing interest is the Parish Church, inconveniently situated at the E. extremity of the town. It is chiefly remarkable for a good Perp. W. tower, distinguished by the local peculiarity of a stair turret carried up the centre of its S. face. The interior--Perp. throughout, with the exception of an E.E. east window--is lofty, but not particularly impressive, and has an unusually high chancel. The fragments of an elaborately carved reredos which the building once possessed are now in Taunton Museum. There are two monuments of note: fine Jacobean tomb with canopy and effigies of Lord Chief-Justice Popham and wife ; defaced effigy of ecclesiastic in recess at E. end of N. chapel. The other features to be observed are old carved reading-desk and pulpit; very fine piscina in chancel; crucifix on mullion of E. window of S. chapel, now obscured by the organ.

It is the misfortune, not the fault, of the subordinate churches of a cathedral city that they arouse but a languid interest in the already surfeited sight-seer. Wells has one other church which merits more than a passing attention. St Cuthbert's is a Perp. building of generous dimensions. It possesses an exceedingly fine tower of the best Somerset type--massive and graceful--belonging to the same class as the towers of Wrington and Evercreech, but spoilt by a want of proportion between the upper and lower stages. The interior of the church is spacious and imposing, and contains a good panelled roof. The E.E. capitals of the piers and some old roof marks suggest that it was originally an E.E. cruciform fabric, altered by Perp. builders, and heightened by the erection of a clerestory. There is documentary evidence that a "public collection" was made in 1561 to repair the havoc caused by the collapse of the central tower. The transeptal chapels were once brilliant with statuary and colour, but the axes and hammers of the image breakers have successfully purged them of their original glory. All that is left for the admiration of the modern visitor are a few gaping recesses and a pile of gathered fragments. Note double transepts, oak pulpit, Dec. window with Jesse altar-piece in S. transept, piscinas, in chancel and S. choir aisle, mutilated figure of knight in ruff and armour at E. end of N. aisle, tomb with figure under tower. The other antiquities of Wells are Bishop Bubwith's alms-houses in Chamberlain Street --an eccentric building, containing a number of separate cells, a chapel and a small hall under one roof , some ancient timber-work in the courtyard of the Crown Inn.

Amongst the more interesting walks in the neighbourhood are Arthur's Point, offering a good view of the Glastonbury plain; Tor and Dulcot hills on the Shepton road; Ebbor rocks near Wookey Hole.

Places of interest mentioned in the text, but not entered under separate headings in the alphabetical list. The figures refer to pages.

Alfoxden 156 Allerford 209 Barlynch Priory 122 Blackmoor Farm 75 Bower Farm 127 Brymore House 77 Cockercombe 213 Combwich 201 Creech Hill 130 Danesborough 214 Devil's Punch Bowl 80, 182 Dundon Beacon 107 Ebbor Rocks 283 Gaulden Farm 246 Goblin Combe 98 Gothelney Hall 83 Gurney Street Farm 78 Halsway 56 Halswell House 146 Hanging Chapel 169 Hare Knap 156 Hautville's Quoit 224 Hestercombe 167 Higher Wadeford 106 Holwell Cavern 32 King Ina's Palace 205 Lamb's Lair 80, 149 Lytes Cary House 84 Malmesmead 199 Marshwood Farm 78 Mouncey Castle 122 Mynchin Buckland 127 Naish Priory 105 Parkfield Monument 117 Richmont Castle 149 Sedgemoor 18, 88, 273 Seven Wells Combe 213 Sexey's Hospital 68 Small Down 90 Stantonbury 225 Stoney Littleton 254 Sutton Court 234 Tarr Steps 122 Walton Castle 103 Wansdyke 11, 52, 129 Weary All Hill 145

INDEX OF PERSONS

Aethelm, Bp. Aldhelm, Bp. Alfred, King Allen, Ralph Alphege, Archbp. Arthur, King Asser, Bp. Audley, Lord Austen, Jane

Bacon, Roger Bagehot, Walter Barbara, Saint Barlow, Bp. Barnes, Bartholomew Beaufort, Cardinal Beckford, William Beckington, Bp. Bennett, Rev. W.J. Bere, Abbot Berkeley family Berkley, Sir M. Bird, Prior Bisse, George Blake, Robert Blanchard, William Botreaux, Sir W. Bradney, Joel de Bray, Sir R. Brett, John Bridport, Visct. Brito Briewere, William de Bubwith, Bp. Buckingham, Duke of Buckland, Walter Burgess, Dean Burnell, Bp. Burne-Jones Butler, Bp. Byam, Rector Bytton, Bp.

Dampier, William Danbery, Henry Danbery, Sir Giles Daniell, Samuel David, St De Courcy family Decuman, St De la Mere, Sir J. Denham, Sir J. Douay, Walter de Dovell, Abbot Drokensford, Bp. Dubricius, St Dummer, Sir J. Dummer, Sir W. Dunstan, St Dyves, Sir Lewis

Edgar, King Edmund Ironside, King Edmund, King Ela, Countess Ethelgar, Archbp. Eveleigh, J. de Everard family Evercy, Sir Peter d'

Fairfax, Sir T. Farewell, J. Feversham, Lord Fielding, Henry Fitz-James, Bp. Fitz-Odo, Serlo Fitz-Roger, Sir H. Fitz-Roger, Simon Fitzurse, Reginald Fitzurse, Robert Fitzwalter family,

Gainsborough, Thomas Gates, Sir J. Gorges, Sir E. Goring, Lord Gray, Robert Grenville, Sir B. Grobham, Nicholas Gunthorpe, Dean Guthrum, Gyvernay, Sir G. and Sir R.

Ina, King Irving, Sir H.

Jeffreys, Judge Jennings, Robert Jennings, Sarah Joceline, Bp. Jones, Inigo Joseph of Arimathea

Kemble, Rev. C. Ken, Bp. Keyne, St King, Bp. Oliver Kinglake, A.W. Kinglake, W. Kingsmill, Sir F. Kirke, Col. Knight, Bp.

Lake, Bp. Landor, W.S. Langton, Bp. Lawrence Sir T. Leversedge family Lightfoot P. Locke, John Lovel, R. Luttrell family

Magee, Archbp. Mallet family Marchia, Bp. de Marlborough, Duke of Martok, John Matilda, Queen Maurice, Prince Merriet family Misiers, Louis de Mohun, William de Monington, Abbot Monmouth, Duke of Montague, Bp. Monteagle, Lord More, Hannah Mowbray, Robert de

Nash, Richard Nelson, Viscount Nelson, Rev. Earl Newton, Sir J. Newton, Sir R. Norris, Edwin

Odda, Earl Oldmixon, John Orange, Prince of Osric

Palmer, John Parry, Sir J. Patrick, St Penruddock, Col. Percival, R. Phelips family Poole, Anthony Poole, Thomas Popham, Chief-Justice Portman family Poulett Prowse, William and Ann Prynne, William Pym, John

Queckett, J.T. Quin, James

Raleigh, Sir W. Raleigh family Ralph, Bp. Reginald, Bp. Robert, Bp. Robert of Normandy Rodney family

Savaric, Bp. Selwood, Abbot Servington, Sir O. de Sexey, Hugh Shaa, Mrs Sherborne, Prior Sheridan, R.B. Smith, Sydney Sodbury, Abbot Somerset, Protector Southey, Robert Speke family Sprynge, Richard Staling, Nicholas Stawel family Stephen, King St Maur, John Stone, John Strode family Sugar, Dean Swan, Richard Sydenham family

Tennyson, Lord Thackeray, W.M. Thomas ? Becket Thurstan, Abbot Toplady, A.M. Trevelyan, John Turberville, Bp.

Vernais, De Verney, Sir J. Verney, Sir R. Villula, Bp. John de

Wadham family Wagstaff, Sir J. Wake family Waller, Lady Waller, Sir W. Walshe family Walrond, Humfrey Warbeck, Perkin Warr, Lord de La Warre family Wellington, Duke of Whiting, Abbot William of Gloucester Winter family Wolfe, General Wolsey, Cardinal Wood Wordsworth, W. Worman, Simon Wulfric, St Wyndham family

Young, Thomas

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