Read Ebook: Vlci proti Mustangům by Omelka Franti Ek
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Repairing water faucets and valves 1 Frostproof hydrants 4 Repairing leaks in pipes and tanks 5 Pipes 5 Tanks 7 Water hammer 8 Frozen water pipes 8 Preventing freezing 8 Thawing 8 Repairing water closets 9 Flushing mechanism 9 Bowl removal 10 Tank "sweating" 12 Clearing clogged drains 12 Fixture and floor drains 12 Outside drains 13 Tools and spare parts 13 Emergencies 14
Northeastern Region
This bulletin supersedes Farmers' Bulletin 1460, "Simple Plumbing Repairs in the Home."
SIMPLE PLUMBING REPAIRS
for the Home and Farmstead
You can save money and avoid delays by making minor plumbing repairs yourself.
Jobs that a farmer or homeowner can do with a few basic tools include:
Repairing water faucets and valves.
Repairing leaks in pipes and tanks.
Thawing frozen pipes.
Repairing water closets.
Cleaning clogged drains.
Extensive plumbing repairs or alterations in the plumbing system usually require authorization from local authorities and possibly inspection of the completed work. Therefore such work should be done by a qualified or licensed plumber.
REPAIRING WATER FAUCETS AND VALVES
Faucets and globe valves, the type of shutoff valves commonly used in home water systems, are very similar in construction and repair instructions given below apply to both. Your faucets or valves may differ somewhat in general design from the one shown in figure 1, because both faucets and valves come in a wide variety of styles.
Mixing faucets, which are found on sinks, laundry trays, and bathtubs, are actually two separate units with a common spout. Each unit is independently repaired.
Dripping faucets are the most common plumbing problem. Normally a new washer is all that is required. If water leaks around the stem, either the packing is loose or needs replacing. To repair the faucet, first shut off the water at the shutoff valve nearest the particular faucet.
Disassemble the faucet by removing the handle, packing nut, packing, and stem in that order. You may have to set the handle back on the stem and use it to unscrew and remove the stem.
Remove the screw and worn washer from the stem. Clean the washer cup and install a new washer of the proper size and type.
Reassemble the faucet. Handles of mixing faucets should be in matched positions.
If a washer requires frequent replacement, it may be the wrong type or the seat may be rough and scoring the washer. Flat washers are used on seats having a crown or round ridge for the washer seat. Tapered or rounded washers are used with tapered seats. These seats may be replaced if worn or damaged.
Replaceable seats have either a square or hex shaped water passage for the seat removal tool. Seat dressing tools are available for non-replaceable seats.
Occasionally a faucet will be noisy when water is flowing. This may be due to a loose washer or worn threads on the stem and receiver, permitting the stem to vibrate or chatter. Pressing down on the handle will stop stem vibration but will not affect a loose washer.
Replacement stems are available; however, if the receiving threads are worn excessively a new stem would not eliminate the problem completely. In some faucets it is possible to replace the stem receiver, the stem, and the seat, thus restoring all normal wearing parts within the faucet.
Several new faucet designs aimed at easier operation, eliminating drip, and promoting long service life, are on the market. Instructions for repair may be obtained from dealers.
If a shower head drips, the supply valve has not been fully closed, or the valve needs repair.
After extended use and several repairs, some valves will no longer give tight shutoff and must be replaced. When this becomes necessary, it may be advisable to upgrade the quality with equipment having better flow characteristics and longer-life design and materials. In some cases, ball valves will deliver more water than globe valves. Some globe valves deliver more flow than others for identical pipe sizes. Y-pattern globe valves, in straight runs of pipe, have better flow characteristics than straight stop valves. Figure 2 shows the features of different types of valves.
PRECAUTIONS
Polluted water or sewage may carry such diseases as typhoid fever and amoebic dysentery. If you do your own plumbing work, be sure that--
There are no leaks in drainpipes through which sewage or sewage gases can escape.
There are no cross connections between piping carrying water from different sources unless there can be reasonable certainty that all sources are safe and will remain safe.
There can be no back siphonage of water from plumbing fixtures or other containers into the water-supply system.
Once a pipe has become polluted, it may be difficult to free it of the pollution. For this reason, building codes do not permit the use of second-hand pipe. All initial piping and parts and subsequent replacements should be new.
Since a plumbing system will require service from time to time, shutoff valves should be installed at strategic locations so that an affected portion can be isolated with minimum disturbance to service in the rest of the system. Shutoff valves are usually provided on the water closet supply line, on the hot- and cold-water supply line to each sink, tub, and lavatory, and on the water heater supply line. Drain valves are usually installed for water-supply piping systems and for hot-water storage tanks.
A pressure-relief valve should be installed for the water heater storage tank to relieve pressure buildup in case of overheating.
FROSTPROOF HYDRANTS
Frostproof hydrants are basically faucets, although they may differ somewhat in design from ordinary faucets.
Two important features of a frostproof hydrant are: The valve is installed under ground--below the frostline--to prevent freezing, and the valve is designed to drain the water from the hydrant when the valve is closed.
Figure 3 shows one type of frostproof hydrant. It works as follows: When the handle is raised, the piston rises, opening the valve. Water flows from the supply pipe into the cylinder, up through the riser, and out the spout. When the handle is pushed down, the piston goes down, closing the valve and stopping the flow of water. Water left in the hydrant flows out the drain tube into a small gravel-filled dry well or drain pit.
As with ordinary faucets, leakage will probably be the most common trouble encountered with frostproof hydrants. Worn packing, gaskets, and washers can cause leakage. Disassemble the hydrant as necessary to replace or repair these and other parts.
Frostproof yard hydrants having buried drains can be health hazards. The vacuum created by water flowing from the hydrant may draw in contaminated water standing above the hydrant drain level. Such hydrants should be used only where positive drainage can be provided.
Frostproof wall hydrants are the preferred type. For servicing sprayers using hazardous chemicals, hydrants having backflow protection should be used .
REPAIRING LEAKS IN PIPES AND TANKS
Pipes
Leaks in pipes usually result from corrosion or from damage to the pipe. Pipes may be damaged by freezing, by vibration caused by machinery operating nearby, by water hammer, or by animals bumping into the pipe.
Occasionally waters are encountered that corrode metal pipe and tubing.
The corrosion usually occurs, in varying degrees, along the entire length of pipe rather than at some particular point. An exception would be where dissimilar metals, such as copper and steel, are joined.
Treatment of the water may solve the problem of corrosion. Otherwise, you may have to replace the piping with a type made of material that will be less subject to the corrosive action of the water.
It is good practice to get a chemical analysis of the water before selecting materials for a plumbing system. Your State college or university may be equipped to make an analysis; if not, you can have it done by a private laboratory.
Pipes that are split by hard freezing must be replaced.
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