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Read Ebook: Our sentimental journey through France and Italy A new edition with Appendix by Pennell Elizabeth Robins Pennell Joseph

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OUR SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY 15

CALAIS 19

BY A FAIR RIVER AND OVER TERRIBLE MOUNTAINS 28

THE BOARDING-HOUSE OF NEUCH?TEL 42

THE SOUTH WIND 46

MONTREUIL 52

NAMPONT 54

A CITY IN MOURNING 57

FAITHFUL ABBEVILLE 67

CRUSHED AGAIN 69

A BY-ROAD 70

AMIENS 77

WIND, POPLARS, AND PLAINS 84

THE COMMERCIAL GENTLEMEN OF ST. JUST 91

THROUGH THE RAIN 100

AN ENGLISH LANDLADY 107

PARIS 115

A TALK ABOUT M. MILLET AND MR. STEVENSON, AND FROM MR. PENNELL 120

IN THE FOREST 135

FONTAINEBLEAU 140

THROUGH A FAIR COUNTRY 143

MONTARGIS 149

HOW WE FOUGHT THE WIND FROM MONTARGIS TO COSNE 154

A GOOD SAMARITAN 163

BY THE LOIRE 170

THE BOURBONNAIS 180

MOULINS 186

THE BOURBONNAIS AGAIN 189

WITH THE WIND 197

LYONS 209

THE AUTUMN MANOEUVRES 213

VIENNE 218

THE FEAST OF APPLES 222

RIVES 232

OUR

SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY,

&c. &c.

--"The roads," said I, "are better in France."

"Strange!" quoth I, arguing the matter with him, "you have so little faith in cyclers that you cannot take their word for it."

--But we had scarce begun our sentimental journey.

CALAIS.

Now, before I quit Calais, a travel-writer would say, it would not be amiss to give some account of it.--But while we were there we were more concerned in seeking the time and occasion for sentiment than in studying the history and monuments of the town. If you would have a short description of it, I know of none better than that of Mr. Tristram Shandy, who wrote without even having seen by daylight the places he described.--The church with the steeple, the great Square, the town-house, the Courgain, are all there still, and I fancy have changed but little in a hundred years.

Now was the moment for an occasion for sentiment to present itself.

It is a rude world, I think, when the wearer of a cycling suit cannot go forth to see the town but instantly he is stared at and ridiculed by the townspeople. For our part,

"What wouldst thou have? 'Tis the English fashion."

If there was one thing we hoped for more than another, it was to see a monk, the first object of

our master's sentiment in France; and, strange as it may seem, our hope was actually fulfilled before the afternoon was over.--On the outskirts of the city, where we had taken refuge from ridicule, we saw a brown hooded and cloaked Franciscan, and in our joy started to overtake him. But he walked quite as fast across the yellow-flowered sand-dunes towards St. Pierre. Had he known what was in our hearts, I think he too would have introduced himself with a little story of the wants of his convent and the poverty of his order.

BY A FAIR RIVER AND OVER TERRIBLE MOUNTAINS.

The morning was cool, the sky grey with heavy clouds, and the south wind we were soon to dread was blowing softly. It seemed a matter of course, since we were in France, that we should come out almost at once on a little river. It ran in a long line between reeds, towards a cluster of red-roofed cottages, and here and there fishermen sat, or stood, on the banks. When it forsook its straight course, the road and the street-car track from

Sometimes I rode, for each tiny village nestled in a valley of its own, giving us a hill to coast as well as to climb. There were occasional windmills in the distance; and close to the road large farm-houses and barns, with high sloping red roofs and huge troughs in front, where we knew cattle would come in the twilight and horses would be watered in the morning. And when Calais, with smoking chimneys, was far behind and below, we came to black crosses by the wayside and better manners among the people. The peasants now wished us good day.

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