Read Ebook: Life in the Soudan Adventures Amongst the Tribes and Travels in Egypt in 1881 and 1882 by Williams Josiah

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Ebook has 439 lines and 79224 words, and 9 pages

PAGE

Leave England for Paris--Drugs and Clothing Required--A "Sleeby" German--Turin 5-12

Milan--The Cathedral--Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele--Piazza d'Armi--Palazzo de Brera--Lake of Como--Bologna--Its Ancient History--Leaning Towers--The Certosa--Teatro Communale--Brindisi 13-23

A Young American at Shepheard's Hotel--Drive to the Pyramids of Gizeh--Ascent and Exploration of the Pyramid of Cheops--The Sphinx 67-80

Heliopolis--The Shoubra Road--Bedrashyn--Mitrahenny--Memphis--Sakhara--Apis Mausoleum--Worship of the Bull Apis--Tomb of King Phta--Meet the Khedive--Engage Servants for the Soudan 81-91

The Land of Goshen--Ancient Canals--Suez--Howling Dervishes--Eclipse of the Moon and Strange Behaviour of Natives--Leave Suez--Where the Israelites Crossed the Red Sea--Pass Mount Sinai--Coral Reefs Abundant 92-97

Arrival at Sou?kin--The Soudan--Bedouin Arab Prisoners in the Square, Not "on the Square"--Ivory--Engage Camels--Sheik Moussa--Sou?kin Slaves--Tragic End of a Doctor--Hadendowah Arabs--An Ill-fated Missionary Enterprise 98-110

The Start Across the Desert--My Camel Serves me a Scurvy Trick--The Camel, its Habits and Training 111-118

Our First Camp--Torrents of Rain--Jules Bardet--Camel-drivers Behave Badly--Suleiman in Trouble--Camel-drivers get Upset--The Desert--Two of Us Lose our Way--Jules Suffers from Dysentery--Sand-storm--A Pilgrim Dies on the Road; Another in the Camp--Jules' Illness--Camp Split Up--Lose Our Way--Encamp Several Days in the Desert--Arab Huts--The Mirage--A Lion 119-143

Arrive at Kassala--Description of Kassala--We buy Camels and Horses--The Mudir gives a Dinner--Jules' Death and Burial--Hyaenas--Arab Patients--Mahoom's History--Demetrius Mosconas on Slavery--Menagerie at Kassala 144-153

Camels from the Atbara--The Mudir--Gordon Pasha's Character in the Soudan--Fertility of the Soudan 154-159

Leave Kassala--Character of the Country--Meet Beni-Amir Arabs on the River-bed--The Baobob Tree 160-164

Encamp at Heikota--Sheik Ahmed--Herr Schumann and His Zareeba--We Make a Zareeba--The Mahdi--Excitement in the Village--Horrible Tragedy--Sheik Ahmed Dines with us--The Magic Lantern--Lions Visit Us 165-177

Patients at Heikota--Leave Heikota--Game in the Bas? Country--See our First Lion--A Lion Interviews the Author--typo Tet?l, Nellut, and other Game Killed on the March 178-183

We Arrive at the Bas? or Kunama Country--The Village of Sarcella--Murder of Mr. Powell and Party--My Camel and I Unceremoniously Part Company--The First Bas? We See--Encamp at Koolookoo--Our First Interview with Bas?--They make "Aman" with Us--Their Appearance--Description of Koolookoo and the Bas? People--Their Habits and Customs 184-200

We leave Koolookoo, Accompanied by a Number of the Bas?--The Magic Lantern--See Buffalo and Giraffe for the First Time--Two Buffalos Killed--A Bas? Feast--Curious Bas? Dance--They Dry their Meat on Lines in the Sun--A Wounded Buffalo--Hoodoo, Chief Sheik of the Bas?, Visits Us--A Column of Sand--A Leper--The Bas? Squabble over the Meat--We Arrive at Abyssinia 201-214

The Dembelas Attack Us, Mahomet Wounded, Narrow Escape of two of our Party--Activity in Camp, We Make a Zareeba and Fire the Country--Hold a Council of War--Our Silent and Dangerous Ride--Hoodoo's Sagacity--Arrival in Camp of Mahomet, Wounded--We Retreat--Mahomet's Death and Burial 215-229

Messrs. James and Phillipps Start on a Visit to Rasalulu--Curious Way of Shaving Children's Heads--A Disgusting Bas?--The Camel-drivers become Mutinous--Intended Attack by Bas?--We Fire the Country and Make a Zareeba--Encamp at Wo-amma--Trouble Again with Camel-men--Lions Disturb Us--Arrival at Heikota--A Tale of Blood and Slavery 230-243

Patients Arrive from all Parts--Rough Journeys--Arrive at the Hamran Settite--Mahomet Sali Deceives us--Crocodiles, Turtle, and Fish--We Move on to Boorkattan, in Abyssinia--Next Day we Move off as Abyssinians Approach--We Catch Enormous Quantities of Fish with the Net--Narrow Escape from a Wounded Buffalo--The Coorbatch Administered--Scorpions and Snakes--Hamrans Visit Us--Hamran mode of Hunting and Snaring--Hamran and Bas?--The Hamrans Threaten to Fire on Us--Again Return to the Hamran Settite--Encamp at Omhagger 244-263

A Boa-constrictor Visits Us--The Burton Boat--Moussa's Behaviour Entails a Thrashing and His Discharge--Great Heat--A Fine Hippopotamus Killed--Hamran Feast--The White Ants--Another Hippopotamus Killed--Mahomet Sali Brings Supplies--Native Music in the Night--Delicate Hints Conveyed to the Performer--A Remarkably Fine Nellut Shot--Arab and Egyptian Taxation--Baboons--A Hamran Story--Ali Stung by a Scorpion--On the March Once More--Rough Journeys 264-278

Encamp at Lakatakoora Without the Caravan--Description of Village--Bas? Ladies Visit Me ere I Get Out of Bed--They Receive Presents and are very Amusing--Enormous Numbers of Doves and Sand-grouse--Aboosalal to Sogoda--Boa-constrictor Killed--An Unpleasant Journey, We all Get Separated--Arrive at Heikota Again 279-284

An Abyssinian Improvisatore and His Little Slave--Prepare for a March to Massawa--A Strange Bas? Breakfast--Patients--Arrive at Toodloak--Beni-Amirs Encamped on the Gash--Lions and Leopards are Shot--Our Monkeys in Camp--Baboon Mode of Attacking Leopards--Crafty Baboons--Lions Abound--Hyaena Method of Attacking a Lion--Hyaena Interviews Mr. Colvin--Arrival at Amadeb--Departure from Amadeb--Bareas Attempt an Attack on the Caravan--Beni-Amirs Watering their Flocks and Herds--We Meet with a young Elephant--Leopard and Hyaena Shot at Khor-Baraker 285-297

A Lion Near the Camp--The Monks of Chardamba--We Meet Ali Dheen Pasha, Governor-General of the Soudan--Arrival at Keren, or Sanh?t--The Priests at Keren--Account of Keren--Merissa--Dra, a Domestic Slave, Made Free--Descent from Sanh?t to the Anseba Valley--The Birds There--Along the River-bed of the Labak--A Big March--Massawa--Farewell to Camels--Massawa to Sou?kin--Take in Cargo--Farewell to the Soudan--Arrival at Suez 298-314

We Hear of the Murder of Lord Frederick Cavendish and Mr. Burke--A Grand Serenade on the Grand Canal--My Journey from Venice to England 331-338

PREFACE

The Soudan, two years ago, was a name unknown to the million, and I will venture to say that at that time not one in fifty knew anything about it. Only those who could afford to obtain Sir Samuel Baker's interesting and instructive work, "The Nile Sources of Abyssinia," would be acquainted with the locality and other particulars.

The literature extant on Egypt proper would probably amount to tons, but that on the Soudan would occupy a very small space indeed on the library shelf, for the simple reason that so very few have travelled through it.

In November, 1881, I left England to accompany six gentlemen on an exploring expedition in the Soudan, and, in view of passing events in Egypt and that locality, I indulged in the hope that an account of my journey will not be unacceptable to the public. I held the post of medical officer to the expedition, partly on account of my experience in the Turkish war, where I was continually brought face to face with dysentery, ague, and other tropical diseases, which are so easily recognised without any extraneous assistance, medical or lay, but which are troublesome to treat, especially when hampered by an ignorant and fussy interference. Doubtless many faults of omission and commission may be found in my book; but I trust that those who criticise it will do so leniently, and remember that it has been written during spare hours, when the exigencies of practice would allow of my seeking recreation by the use of my pen. "Oh, that mine enemy would write a book!" was the heartfelt expression of a vindictive old gentleman, well known for his great patience. My enemies, I trust, are few; those I have shall be gratified, though I hope I shall not find any who are utterly callous, but will use me in a gentlemanly fashion.

Although I have, on some occasions, written for the medical journals, I am quite aware that there may be many faults of style and finish in this my first effort at a book; such shortcomings I would ask the reader to overlook. It is but a plain, unvarnished account of a journey through a territory hitherto but little known, and as such I trust it may be of interest to the majority of my readers.

LEAVE ENGLAND FOR PARIS--DRUGS AND CLOTHING REQUIRED--A "SLEEBY" GERMAN--TURIN.

I was bound for the Soudan, and had arranged to meet my party at Brindisi on the 21st of November, 1881. I therefore sent on all my heavy baggage by Peninsular and Oriental steamer to Suez; included in this was a good-sized medicine chest, well stocked with drugs for the relief or cure of nearly all the ills that flesh is heir to.

I am an old campaigner, having served as a surgeon-major in the Turkish Army in 1876 and '77, consequently had a very good idea of what drugs would be most necessary and useful. Knowing also that we were going to a very hot part of the globe, I took as few liquids, such as tinctures, &c., as possible.

Everything that I could have made in the form of pills I got Messrs. Richardson and Co., of Leicester, to do; their coated pills stood the journey splendidly, and could always be depended on.

It will not be necessary to enumerate all the contents of the medicine-chest; but I think it might be useful to those who take a similar journey if I mention a few things that ought certainly to be taken, and they are the following: A good stock of quinine, oil of male-fern, as tape-worm is by no means uncommon; ipecacuanha, for that formidable complaint, dysentery; castor oil, opium, Dover's powder, iodoform, chlorodyne, calomel, blue pill, and various other mercurial preparations, much required for complaints in the Soudan; iodide of potash, carbonate of soda, powdered alum, sulphate of zinc, sugar of lead, solution of atropine, solution of ammonia, Epsom salts, a large bottle of purgative pills, nitrate of silver , carbolic acid, lint, a few dozen bandages, and plaster in a tin. Ointments are useless, as they soon become quite liquid in such a hot climate, and run all over the medicine chest, making a great mess.

Soldiers cannot march without easy boots, and travellers cannot travel with comfort unless they have suitable braces. This may seem a small matter to talk about, but I have often heard strong language poured forth at the secession of a trouser-button; and I know from past experience what a nuisance it is to be obliged to sew on one's trouser-buttons. A long time is spent in searching for a needle and thread, and a much longer time, by the unpractised one, in sewing on the button. Now, fortunately, these annoyances are things of the past, since the invention of what is known as "the traveller's patent buttonless brace."

It is simplicity itself. Instead of buttons on the trousers, there are eyelet holes, through which a little bar attached to the brace--instead of a loop--is slipped, and there is an end for ever of the nuisance of buttons coming off.

A good supply of soap for washing clothes should be taken, also plenty for personal use. Pear's Soap, I think, is an excellent one in every respect. Some of our party took thick woollen pads with them, which they wore over the spine. I did not, neither do I think them at all necessary.

As I was not due at Brindisi until the 21st November, I decided to have a ramble through parts of Italy which I had not before visited. Accordingly, I left England in the early part of the month.

As I did not intend to remain long in Turin, I was up the following morning in good time, determined to see as much of the place as I could in a short time. The streets are clean and well laid out, the houses large and handsome generally, and the town comparatively modern, although it was originally founded by a tribe called the Taurini, was the capital of Piedmont during the 14th century, and the capital of Italy until 1865. The population is about 208,000, and the University perhaps the most important in Italy, there being over 1,500 students.

Around the exterior are 4,500 niches, of which above 3,000 are already occupied by statues. In the interior everything is of the most imposing and gorgeous description. I said everything, but I should except an image of wax of the Virgin Mary, with the infant Saviour in her arms. The waxen face and arms looked very dirty, her attire was very commonplace-looking stuff, and I did not think her rather dirty-looking neck was much improved by a bit of paltry-looking green ribbon encircling it. This image would certainly be more suitable at Madame Tussaud's than in this beautiful cathedral. But I will finish with the exterior. The roof is a perfect forest of marble pinnacles, nearly all crammed with most valuable marble statues. The celebrated marble flower-bed contains several thousand flowers, each distinct and each different in design. I leave the roof and ascend the tower, from which I obtain a magnificent view of the Alpine range, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, the St. Bernard and Matterhorn right away to the Superga and Mont Cenis.

In the interior we notice the rich stained-glass windows of the choir, comprising about 350 subjects of Biblical history, the Gothic decorations of the sacristy, the candelabra in front of the altar shaped like a tree, and decorated with jewels, then the Chapel of St. Borromeo, which is a subterranean chapel of a most gorgeous and costly character, as it is one mass of jewels. The shrine and walls are silver, all inlaid with gold and precious stones. If I remember rightly, I paid a franc extra for my visit here, and had the gratification of seeing the embalmed body of St. Borromeo, with the valuable rings of office still on his fingers. A golden crown is suspended over his head, and a large crucifix of splendid emeralds lies on his chest--this, I am told, was given by the Empress of Austria.

Of course, in Milan, as in all large towns in Italy, there are any number of beautiful and remarkable churches. Among the most remarkable edifices are the church of Sant' Ambrogio, founded by St. Ambrose in 387, the churches of Sant' Eustargio, San Lorenzo, Santa Maria delle Grazie, with a cupola and sacristy by Bramante, and the celebrated Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci; Santa Maria della Passione, a majestic edifice, with excellent paintings and a magnificent mausoleum; San Paolo, San Carlo Borromeo, &c.

Immediately adjoining the Cathedral is a magnificent square, which was finished on the occasion of the Austrian Emperor's visit to Milan in 1875. This is called the Piazza del Duomo. From this square I pass through the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele, a very fine glass-roofed arcade, or gallery, connecting the Piazza del Duomo with the Scala Theatre; the cost of this was about ?320,000. It was commenced in 1865 and opened in 1867. The glass canopy is illuminated by 2,000 jets of gas, and when these and the beautiful and brilliant shops are lighted the effect is charming. The length of this kind of covered street is 320 yards. La Scala Theatre was not open for performances when I was there, but by the judicious disposition of a franc or so I obtained admission just to see it. It is, I understand, capable of accommodating 3,600 spectators. I next strolled on to the Piazza d'Armi, which occupies an immense space, obtained by the demolition of the citadel and its outworks. Part of it has been converted into an amphitheatre, 800 feet long by 400 feet broad, used in summer for races and shows, and capable of containing 30,000 spectators. The castle, now a barrack, fronts the Piazza d'Armi on one side; at the opposite side is the Porta Sempione, with the fine Arco Sempione, or Arco della Pace. This is a lofty gateway, with three passages, built of blocks of white marble, adorned with reliefs and statues, and bearing inscriptions commemorating the emancipation of Italy. My next visit was to the Palazzo di Brera, or Delle Scienze Lettere ed Arte, containing the Pinacoteca, or picture-gallery, with a very valuable collection of paintings and statuary, and containing also the library of the Academy . Besides this library, Milan possesses the Ambrosian library, the earliest and still one of the most valuable public libraries in Europe. There is also a valuable museum of natural history, a conservatory of music, a military college, a theological seminary, and a veterinary school.

Though Milan is one of the most ancient towns in Lombardy, it has so often been partially destroyed and rebuilt that few antiquities remain. It is entered by eleven gates, several of which are magnificent. Its foundation is attributed to the Insubrian Gauls; but the first distinct notice of it occurs B.C. 221, when it was subdued by the Romans, under whom it acquired so much importance that in the division of the empire attributed to Constantine the Great it ranks as the second city of Italy. In the middle of the fifth century it was sacked by the Huns, under Attila, and again in the following century by the Goths; but greater horrors yet awaited it, for the Goths, who had been driven out by Belisarius, having regained possession by the aid of the Burgundians, gave it up to the flames, and put almost all its inhabitants to the sword. The most important manufactures are tobacco, silks, cottons, lace, carpets, hats, earthenware, white-lead, jewelry, and articles in gold and silver. The spinning and throwing of silk employs a large number of hands, and furnish the staple article of trade. The other principal articles are corn, rice, cheese, and wines.

In the evening of the second day I met with a Milan gentleman, who had lived some years in America, and who could speak English remarkably well. He was a genial, good-hearted looking kind of fellow, and we soon got into an animated conversation. I was surprised to find how well up he was in English politics, and as for the Irish question, he could hold his own with any Englishman; he was, too, a great admirer of Lord Beaconsfield. When we had had about an hour's chat I was about to return to my hotel; he then asked me how long I was going to remain in Milan. I told him I intended leaving next day for Bologna.

"Have you seen the lake of Como?" said he.

"No," I replied. "I should like to do so very much, but fear I cannot spare the time, as I have to be at Brindisi on the 21st."

"But you must not leave," said he, "until you have been there; it is only a run of thirty miles to Como by rail. I live there. Come to-morrow and visit me, and I will put you in the way of seeing Bologna in half the time that you would do it in without assistance."

This very kind offer I accepted, and spent next day a very agreeable time with my new acquaintance, who was most hospitable and friendly. We parted with mutual protestations of goodwill, and I took train for Bologna, which is several hours' ride from Milan.

Bologna is one of the oldest, largest, and richest cities of Italy. It lies at the foot of the Apennines, between the Rivers Reno and Savena, 190 miles N.N.W. from Rome. It is five or six miles in circumference, and is surrounded by an unfortified wall of brick; it has extensive manufactures of silk goods, velvet, artificial flowers, &c. It struck me as being a quaint old city. All the houses, or nearly so, are built out over the shops and pavement, supported by large pillars, and forming a covered way nearly all over the city which affords shade and shelter to the foot-passengers.

As I had to start for Brindisi at 3 a.m. on Sunday, November 20th, I had not much time for sleep, notwithstanding which I got between the sheets until then, when I was conveyed to the station and finished my nap in the train.

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