Read Ebook: Paint & Colour Mixing A practical handbook for painters decorators and all who have to mix colours containing 72 samples of paint of various colours including the principal graining grounds by Jennings Arthur Seymour

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Lilac was called also French gray.

Warm gray was called also deep stone, French gray, and light stone.

Silver gray was called also lavender.

Steel gray was called French gray in several instances, but we prefer to use the other term, as it appears to be nearer to what is usually known in this country as a French gray, that is one which has a touch of red and blue in it.

Another instance of the variation in the names of these colours is shown by light stone, which one would think was sufficiently well known to remove any doubt about it, but this was called smoke gray, French gray, and dove.

Middle stone was called also light drab.

Dark oak was called also dark drab and yellow bronze green.

Light drab was called also middle drab and doe colour.

Sandstone was called also dark stone.

Dove colour was called also deep stone.

Stone colour was called also ecru and light stone.

Colonial yellow was called also straw, light stone, and deep Naples yellow.

Buff in one case was called yellow ochre.

MEDIUM OAK DEEP CREAM

LIGHT OAK AND BIRCH ROSE

DARK OAK SIGNAL RED

POLLARD OAK DARK SAGE

PITCH PINE SAP GREEN

ROSEWOOD AND MAHOGANY LIGHT BLUE

LIGHT MAHOGANY AMBER BROWN

WALNUT SKY BLUE

GRAINING GROUNDS

Cream was called Manilla, light stone and deep deck.

Primrose yellow was called also mustard yellow, canary and straw colour.

Straw was called also Naples yellow and deep Naples yellow.

Deep cream was called also cream and lemon.

Fawn brown was called light drab and light lava.

Smoke colour was called rustic drab and drab.

Deep drab was called also dark stone, light drab, dark drab and fawn; one sample of raw Turkey umber was almost identical.

Dark drab was given also as dark lava and middle drab.

Dark oak was called also copper brown, light oak, and Imperial brown, whilst in one case a sample of dark ochre was almost identical.

Snuff brown was called also light brown, sepia, dark ochre, umber brown and Arabian brown.

Sienna brown was called also teak brown, coffee brown, deep Indian red and terra cotta.

Amber brown was called also bison brown, sepia, and dark oak.

Autumn leaf was called also leather lake, mast colour, middle oak, old gold, and light fawn.

Signal red was called also vermilion, geranium red and poppy red.

Moss gray was called also silver gray.

Acorn brown was called also umber, dark oak, dark brown, light brown, dark Indian brown, chestnut brown, middle chocolate and Portland brown.

With the above instances before him the reader will not, we think, take any exception to the names we have chosen for our sample colour. The same is true concerning the instructions for colour admixture. If a reader makes a mixture according to those instructions and finds the result disappointing, the reason will probably be that his conception of the particular colour differs from that of the author. And it should be mentioned again, here, that every one of the mixtures have been made in oil colours, checked and checked again.

For many years past efforts have been made by scientists and others to formulate a permanent nomenclature for colours, tints, shades, and hues, but it cannot be said that so far any success has been met with. Should the efforts made prove ultimately successful, there is no doubt it would be a great boon to decorators, painters, and others; for example, if a decorator wanted to order from his manufacturer a certain tint of colour, all he would have to do would be to send in the name. PRANG, of Boston, in his work, "The Standard of Colour," endeavoured to systematise the subject, and he did this in the following manner. He produced sheets of colour divided up into several thousand squares. On the first sheet at the top was the spectrum of pure colours divided up, and beneath this similar squares with similar colours, to which had been added a small portion of white. The line below this was the same again with more white added, and so on till the bottom of the sheet was reached, when the colours were greatly reduced by the while, the tints being naturally very light ones. The second sheet was exactly the same as the first, but a small portion of black had been added to all of the colours and tints. The third sheet was the same thing again, with more black added, and the fourth sheet more black still, and so on to the end of the work. The colours were distinguished with letters, and the lines indicated the amount of white added by numbers. To anyone who possessed a copy of the work it would be a comparatively easy matter to order any colour from the book by number and letter, but the reader will readily perceive that this work falls short of the requirements of practical decorators, inasmuch as it does not provide for the admixture of different colours, but only those which are in the spectrum. It is true enough that all colours are as a matter of fact included in the spectrum, but it is not so easy a matter to separate them for practical purposes.

THE ECONOMY OF USING GOOD COLOURS.--It may be taken as a safe rule for the painter to follow that where a good job is required the best materials only should be employed, but the reader may answer to this that the price paid to him for his work will frequently not permit of his doing this. We may then leave the subject an open one which has really no place in these pages, except in so far as it relates to tinting colours, and here we can definitely and positively assert that it pays the painter best to use the best qualities of colour, quite irrespective of whether he gets a high price or a low price for his work. We must now proceed to explain this. Let the reader assume that a large surface is to be painted a very light Prussian blue. The price for the work is fixed and the question to be determined is whether it will pay to use cheap Prussian blue or one of high quality. Assume that a high quality blue costs 2s. per pound, and that just one pound of it is sufficient to tint the whole white to the required shade. We are purposely giving a simple case so as to make the matter clear. Now a Prussian blue can be bought for, say, 1s. 3d. a pound, but it would probably consist of at least one half of barytes or some other adulterant, which is of no value whatever as a tinter. If this colour is half strength it is obvious that two pounds of it would be required to tint the white for the work in hand, and this would cost 2s. 6d., against 2s. for the better class colour. This homely example should be taken to heart by every painter. He has only to experiment to find out that it never pays to use inferior tinting colours. Of course there is another reason why the best quality should be used, and that is, the appearance of the inferior colours is always muddy and unsatisfactory.

HUE, TINT AND SHADE.--There is a good deal of confusion among some painters as to the meaning of the word "hue," "tint," and "shade," although there is no reason why any confusion should exist. The word "hue" is employed to mean practically the same thing as a "colour." It may consist of any mixture of other colours, or may be a pure colour itself. Now when white is added to any hue or colour a tint of that colour is produced. If black is added a shade of that colour is produced. In the decoration of our rooms we shall see that as an actual fact we obtain shades of the colour by the omission of light, because the addition of black as a pigment to a colour acts in the same way as shutting off light. In mixing colours it is important to remember that black should not be used to lower the tone of a colour excepting in rare instances. It only has the effect of producing a muddy appearance. A yellow that is too bright can be reduced, or made less staring, a painter might say, by adding a little blue and red. If a blue is too bright a little red and yellow should be added; or if a red is too bright it may be toned down by the addition of a very little blue and yellow. This is a most useful rule to observe, and as long as the quantity of the colours added is not too great the results will please.

WHITES.

It may be observed that in the colour mixtures which follow in no case has any white other than white lead and zinc white been used. In actual practice many manufacturers add barytes or some other cheap white to both colours and paints in order to lessen the cost. It is not thought necessary, however, to add these materials in the recipes, it being understood that their use can be proceeded with if necessary. We give a few mixtures for whites which will probably be found useful. There are no particular names applied to the following mixtures.

One part of barytes to six parts of white lead ground in oil makes a good white for outside use.

A permanent white which is not affected by gases, sulphuretted hydrogen, etc., is made by mixing two parts of oxide of zinc with one part of barytes. A warm white is made by mixing a small quantity of oxide of ochre, say one part to one hundred of white lead. Sometimes a little ivory black, say one part to three hundred, is added to the white.

White lead being sometimes a little "off" in colour, that is a little yellow in its cast, some blue is added to counteract this imperfection. Most of the corroders, however, exclude all the lead which is of a yellow cast and sell it to glass manufacturers, for whose purpose it is just as good as pure white.

A very little ultramarine green added to white lead makes a white sometimes called Japan white.

Equal parts of white lead and oxide of zinc are frequently used as a white paint, although two parts of lead to one of zinc gives a better mixture.

Some painters are under the impression that inasmuch as lead and zinc are both derived from metals they will not mix together to form a good paint, there being something of the nature of a galvanic action set up between the two metals. This, however, is an error, for although lead and zinc cannot properly be mixed together by hand yet if they are ground by the ordinary paint manufacturers' machinery the result is a most durable paint which will last many years; indeed, the writer has found this paint, with proper thinners, one of the best possible mixtures which can be used to resist the destructive action set up by alternate wet and dry days.

White lead is, of course, the staple white and the most important of all painters' materials. Various new processes in white lead are in more or less successful operation. The old Dutch process, however, must be said to give the greatest satisfaction, generally speaking.

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