Read Ebook: Practical Stair Building and Handrailing By the square section and falling line system. by Wood W H

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HALF-SPACE LANDING, WITH A STRAIGHT FLIGHT ABOVE AND BELOW, AND A CONTINUED RAIL, STARTING WITH A SIDE WREATH FROM A NEWEL.

Fig. 3 shows the width rod. Care should always be taken to try this rod at the landing, where the two flights are connected, and allow for the stairs to fit in between the walls, just slack enough to go in their place without any trouble. They want, in fact, to drop into their place. Mark on each end of the rod the face of the skirting on the landings, and let this be the face of the wall string. Mark the centre, and set off on each side the centre line of rail, also the string and brackets. The face brackets will be the outside face of balusters.

Fig. 4 is the going rod. Of course, the going must be regulated by circumstances, but this rod must have the face of all the risers marked on it, also each springing, as shown by S S S, and the landings, doorways, &c.

Fig. 5 is the height rod, which must have landings, &c., marked on it as shown. These rods should be used to put in the landing by. The pitch board will be taken off the rods, as was before explained. Remember, a little care in setting out and working to these rods is true economy.

Fig. 6 shows how the carriages may be fastened to the floor. Let A be a fillet nailed well through the floor into the joist.

Fig. 7 shows the top and bottom carriages bolted to the trimmers at the landing. The short trimmer is sufficiently long to take the top carriages. The dotted lines show how the bottom end of the top carriages is let into the short trimmer, and bolted through. The bottom carriages cut against the long trimmer, and bolted through, as shown. It sometimes happens the short trimmer has to be blocked out from the long one, so as to receive the top carriages. In that case it is packed out sufficiently and bolted together.

Fig. 8 shows the carriages bolted to the trimmer on the top landing.

DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION.

Fig. 5 shows the side and Fig. 6 the front elevation of a mitre shoot for shooting the mitres of the ends of risers. The sides are two 9-inch boards, set up at 45?, and screwed to the bottom, marked D, and to the back, marked H. Two ledges are screwed on the bottom, marked N. Also a longer piece on the top, in front, marked C, for the trying plane to slide on when shooting the mitres. A false bottom is put in, and set up at 45?, marked B, this is screwed or nailed through the sides, and kept 1/2 inch above C, as shown. The triangular piece is put in, and the bottom side S P is kept the thickness of a bracket above B, and S P must be the exact size of the thickness of the string where the risers fit against it. The risers are put in with the shoulders against S R and shot off. The brackets can be mitred in the same way. This box will do for any job by having different triangular pieces.

Fig. 7 shows how to get out the continuation of the brackets along the top landing, and finish against the wall. It often happens that the brackets require to be reduced in length for unders or diminished flyers, or increased for a large well, or where the risers are farther apart than on the straight flights. Figs. 8 and 9 show methods of reducing or increasing the length of the brackets, and each member proportionately. It is only necessary to describe one, as the method for both is the same. Let A be the given, and B the required bracket. Having drawn the bracket A, set off C E at any angle, the required length. Join D E, draw any number of lines on the bracket A, square to C D, draw these lines parallel to D E, and from where they cut C E square outline, and make them equal corresponding lines on the bracket A, as 3, 4 and 5 on B will equal 3, 4 and 5 on A. These brackets for the circular parts may be got out of wood; in that case the grain should be vertical, as the brackets are fixed. But for painted work the best are two pieces of linoleum glued together.

Fig. 10 shows how the cut string, which is 12 inches wide, may be got out of a 9-inch board. Shoot the bottom edge, then gauge a line on its face to equal S S, Fig. 2. Then with the compasses set off on this line, the hypothenuse of the pitch board as many times as is required, as shown by N R S H. Then with the steel square mark each going and rise, which cut, it will be found the board is not wide enough, but the pieces cut out of the corners can be glued on to make it out as shown by A and B.

In some cases, where there are no ornamental brackets, the ends of treads are cut off flush with the outside face of string, except the mitre for the return nosing, and the risers are mitred to the string.

DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION.

Fig. 1 is the plan of the well and the steps, landing and starting, at the half-space landing. The lines marked C S are the direction of the cuts to be made through the circular or well string for the risers to mitre to.

Fig. 2 shows a piece of thin stuff cut to a semicircle to fit the inside of the string. This piece is laid on the plan, and the position and direction of the cuts for risers is marked on it as seen by C C.

Fig. 3 shows a section of a staved well, the joints being ploughed out and cross tongues put in as shown. Each joint must be well glued and rubbed and screwed through the back. It will be noticed it is carried past the springing into the straight on both sides; this makes a better job, as a joint made in the springing always has a crippled appearance, no matter how well the job may be done.

Fig. 7 shows the return nosing for this step.

Fig. 8 shows the landing step. This is got out long enough to reach from wall to wall. This step is glued up in the shop with the rest; the nosing is worked on the solid and returned as far as E, about 2 or 3 inches on. The scotia is fixed around the circular part after all is fixed.

Fig. 9 shows the top landing step. This too goes from wall to wall, and is treated in the same way as Fig. 8, only the nosing is worked from end to end.

DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION, SHOWING AN APPARATUS FOR MARKING THE LENGTH AND CUTS OF BALUSTERS AROUND THE CIRCULAR PARTS.

Fig. 1 shows part plan of stairs for a side wreath starting from a newel. The farther out the newel stands, within reason, the better will be the appearance, provided it does not obstruct the passage in any way.

Fig. 3 shows the block for a curtail step. The step is struck from the same centres as the handrail, which is explained on plate. The block is got out in three thicknesses; the grain of two pieces can run in the same direction as the riser, and the middle pieces in the direction of S S. The balusters will regulate the size of the block, as shown. This step is constructed on the same principle as Fig. 2, the scotia being in the solid. The nosing will be worked on the tread in the solid and returned at R through the string. The piece marked H is a piece of 1/4 -inch iron twisted so as to screw to the under side of the tread and to the inside of the string. The last baluster on the step should be iron, shouldered to fit on the top of the tread, and a 3/4 pin on it to go through the step, with a thread for a nut to screw it up tight from the bottom. They are sometimes run in with sulphur instead of the nut; in that case it can be fixed after the step is fixed, but the nut makes the best job.

Fig. 4 shows an apparatus for cutting up the balusters around the wreaths. It is a very simple affair, easily made and easily applied; it makes a perfect fit, and the saving of time is very great. The box is made the size of the baluster on the inside, the back C is 1 1/2 inch thick, and the sides 3/4 inch. The pieces marked A are cut as shown, and slotted, a couple of screws are screwed into the sides with washers on, for A to slide up and down. B is a piece of zinc screwed on to A, as shown, with the head countersunk flush. B must be about 1/8 inch narrower than the balusters, so as to go into the groove of the under side of handrail. The screws in B must be so that they can be turned either way with the fingers, while those in the sides must be so that A will slide up and down easy. The box will be about 2 feet long, cut off perfectly square at the bottom end. To mark the balusters, stand the box on the tread so that the inside of it will be immediately over where the baluster has to go. Slide up A on either side so that B will go into the groove of the under side of the handrail, then turn B on both sides to fit the rail. Take it away and lay it down, and lay the baluster in it, and mark it top and bottom. The dovetail has of course to be added. The distance between the two pieces of zinc must be the same as the balusters and inside of the box, and the centre of B must be in a line with the centre of the side of inside of box.

Fig. 5 shows the plan, and Fig. 6 the sectional elevation, of a part of stairs, with winders in the quarter space, and a quarter space landing to give access to a doorway. The dotted lines show the carriages and landing. The back edges of the treads are kept 1/2 inch beyond the back of risers to form a ledge. The cross piece G is fixed to receive the carriages, as shown. The pieces F are fixed, as shown, let into the wall one end, and fixed to the back of the well the other. These pieces are fixed under each tread flush with the back edge, the width depends upon the well string; they are kept so that the plaster will finish flush with the bottom of the well. The short carriages C are cut tight in between F and F, and they must be wide enough to notch over the projection of the back edge of the treads, as shown by E, Fig. 6. If these short carriages are cut in tight it makes a good sound job, and rough brackets can be nailed on them, and blocked and glued as for the straight parts. The laths will go from F to F. D is put in to take the laths, as the distance here from F to F is too much without them, and E is to take the ends of laths along the wall. The landing will be understood. The joists K are put in to receive the floor and laths.

Fig. 7 shows the joint of the two diagonal joists.

Fig. 8 shows the joints at the external angle of the landing, the bolt going through the three, J A H, as shown.

DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION.

Fig. 2 shows the development. Cut a piece of thin board to fit the face of string around the zinc circle on plan, as shown by Fig. 3. Bend a thin lath around it, and mark the springing on to it and all risers between. Lay this lath on Fig. 2, and mark the springing and position of risers, as shown. The position of risers outside of the springing can of course be taken off the plan. Draw one or two full size steps top and bottom, and a part of the straight strings as shown. Continue the bottom edge of string to form a nice easy falling line connecting the straight parts, as shown by the curved parts, Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 shows a cylinder made to fit the inside face of the circular string. Before the veneer is put on, glue some paper all over the outside of this cylinder and let it dry. Then, should any glue get between the veneer and cylinder, it will pull the paper off instead of sticking to the wood, and perhaps break the veneer; the paper can be washed off. Bend the lath around the cylinder on top of the paper, and mark the springing, as shown, on both sides. Do this at both ends, and mark the springing down the sides with a straight-edge. Now get a piece of veneer a full 1/16 inch thick, the size shown by the straight dotted lines, Fig. 2. Cut the bottom edge to the curve S S. Mark the springing and each step on the veneer. It is as well to mark these on both sides. In putting this on the cylinder take care to have it the right hand. Fix on one side first with a hand-screw, so that the springing on the veneer is on the springing on the cylinder, then bend it around and fasten the other side temporarily. Then get two pieces of veneer, 1/8 inch thick and about 1 inch wide, cut to the shape of the curves S S and N N. Now bend the two pieces around on the top of the first piece, keeping the edge S S flush with the bottom edge of the large veneer. It will be seen that the three thicknesses of veneer will form the sinking in the string 5/16 inch deep. Next get a piece the exact thickness of the sinking 5/16 inch, and cut it to the shape of the sinking, as seen at Fig. 5. Put plenty of saw kerfs in the direction shown, that is, parallel to the springing. Let the kerfs go past the springing a bit on both ends. Now bend this around the cylinder with the kerfs next to it, and the edge close up to the veneers. Now get the staves about 2 inches by 2 inches, and bevel the edges to fit each other around the circle and hollow the under side to fit in the veneer, also cut the ends out to fit over the sinking. Start one side first with straight pieces as far as the springing and screw it down, then work from this piece and go right around, screwing each piece as it is fitted, until they are all on. Next start in the centre and take off one side, numbering each piece as it is taken off, lift up each of the three pieces of veneer and glue between them, screw the staves on again except the centre one, take them off on the other side and glue in the same way, after which screw on all the staves again. To glue the staves, again start in the centre and take off one, well glue the bottom next to the veneer and screw it down tight. Take off the next one to it and glue the bottom and side going against the one already glued. Repeat this process until all are fixed, but never glue more than one at a time. It may be found necessary to steam the veneer. This is sometimes done in a box made for the purpose, where there is steam to be had, but failing that, boiling in the glue-pot is used. But this is not a good thing to do if it can be avoided, as the dryer it is put on the better for the job.

Fig. 6 shows an enlarged section through the joint A B, Fig. 4. F is a section of Fig. 5.

Fig. 7 shows the well in position. If a 5/8 -inch bead is used for the bottom edge, a piece of 5/8 -inch cane can be bent around the well in continuation of the bead. This work must be all fitted before it leaves the bench, ready to go into its place when fixed.

The handrail is that portion of the fence carried up on the outside of the stairs and supported by the balusters, which are let into the ends of the treads. While these balusters form protection, the rail is to assist in the ascent and descent of the stairs. It is very evident the rail should be a uniform height over the line of nosings. This height should be 2 feet 8 inches, measured vertically over the face of risers, from the top side of tread to the top side of rail. And it will be seen that the risers around the circular parts should be placed so as to have the best possible falling line of rail, while the balusters should be, if anything, a trifle longer than on the straight parts.

The method adopted in this work is as follows:--The plan of centre line of rail is first laid down, and the tangents and face of risers drawn. Next the centre line of rail is unfolded, or developed, on a board, with position of risers thereon. Then the centre falling line of rail is drawn, resting on the corners of the full-size steps and continued across the well. And here it is where good taste and judgment is required, so as to get a good falling. After the falling line has been drawn it will be seen at once if any improvement can be made in the position of the risers. The development of tangents is next drawn to suit the falling line of rail.

The face moulds are next got out of some thin stuff. The tangents on the moulds will equal the tangents developed in the elevation. This will be better understood by referring to the succeeding drawings. Two face moulds are used, one for each side of the plank. The tangents and sections are the same on each mould, but as the width is on the inside of one mould and on the outside of the other, this gives the wreath the necessary twist. The wreath having been cut out square through the plank and the joints made, and the tangents squared across the joints, the face moulds are then tacked on, with the ends of both moulds flush with the joints, and the tangents on both face moulds are put to the tangents squared across the joints of wreath, there being no pushing or sliding the mould in any shape or form. The inside and outside is now sawn off, the saw always being held in the same direction as the section lines on the face moulds. A bevel is obtained for each section and set off on a board. The width of rail is also drawn on the same board, and where the bevel cuts the centre of width of rail, is the centre of plank. Now as the face mould gives the height of the centre of plank at each section, these heights are transferred to the elevation, which shows at once if the falling line is any, and how much, out of the centre of plank. Then the sections of rail are drawn on the board above, or below, where the bevel cuts the centre of width of rail, according to what the falling line is out of the centre of plank at each section. This shows what superfluous stuff there is to come off the top side of the wreath at each section, which is marked on to the wreath before the face moulds are removed. This superfluous stuff is then sawn off, keeping the saw in the direction of the section lines, after which the wreath is gauged to a thickness and the superfluous stuff sawn off the bottom.

I may say that this system has been put to practical test, and some of the very best examples of handrailing have been done by it with the very best results. But it was found to be a great advantage to use a machine gig-saw: they can be bought the same as any other saw, and if it is fixed into a bow-saw frame, or a frame made for it, no difficulty will be experienced in sawing out any wreath shown in this book.

The advantages of this system are:--

It will be seen that in no case in this book is extra thickness of stuff required.

ON OBLIQUE PLANES AND THEIR TRACES.

If the surface of a solid is neither horizontal or perpendicular it is oblique.

Thus, if we place a box on the table, the top of the table represents the horizontal plane and the side of the box the vertical plane, and the intersection of the box and the table is the ground line, or X Y. Draw a line out square from the box on the table, marked N N, Fig. 1. Hold the end of a book on this line, with its edge against the side of the box in an inclined position; mark a line on the side of the box: this line is the vertical trace, because the oblique plane has cut the vertical plane on this line. Before moving the book mark a line on the table: this is the horizontal trace, for the same reason that the oblique plane has cut the horizontal plane on this line.

Fig. 2 shows the horizontal trace inclined 60? to the vertical plane. Draw the dotted line N N on the table, making an angle of 60? with the box. Place the end of a book on this line, and while in an inclined position mark the vertical and horizontal traces the same as in Fig. 1. To find the true inclination of the oblique plane take F for centre, and for radius F R, strike the arc to cut X Y in P; join E P, which is the true length and inclination of a line on the oblique plane, to stand vertically over F R. All lines on the oblique plane parallel to the horizontal trace will be level, and all lines square to it will be the true inclination of the surface of the oblique plane.

Fig. 3. It is required to cut a block of wood the size of the square A B C O, its side A B to be 5 inches high, and its top surface inclined 30? to the horizontal plane. On the oblique surface project an ellipse that will stand vertically over the quarter of circle on plan. Let A B C O be the plan and B C R N the elevation. Project 7, 8, 9 on to the oblique surface, as shown by 1, 2, 3.

Fig. 4 shows a cuneiform sketch of the block. Make B N and C R equal corresponding letters, Fig. 3; join R N; square out lines from N R; make N A?, R O? equal A B, Fig. 3. To complete the figure, make A A? equal B N, and O O? equal C R. To draw the ellipse, make N 1 2 3 R equal N 1 2 3 R, Fig. 3. Make 1 7 and 2 8 and 3 9 equal 4 7 and 5 8 and 6 9, Fig. 3. Trace the curve through A? 7 8 9 R as shown. If this block is cut out in a vertical direction to the ellipse on its surface it will stand correctly over the quarter of circle, its plan.

Fig. 5. Cut a block of wood so that its edge will stand vertically over A B C O. The top of the block to be hard down at A. From A to B rise 3 inches, and from B to C 4 inches more. Make B F equal 3 inches and C 5, 7 inches. Join 5, F extended to cut X Y in E. Join E A, which is the horizontal trace, and E F 5, the vertical trace. F 5 will be the inclination of the edge of the block over B C. To get the length and inclination of the edge over A B, take B for centre and B A for radius, strike an arc to cut X Y in H. Join F H for the required edge.

The process of getting the lines on the oblique surface of this block, as shown at Fig. 6, is the same as most of the face moulds as laid down in this book, and let it be understood that if the problems on this and the following Plate are properly mastered, the foundation upon which this system depends has been laid, and all the plates that follow are purely a matter of detail. Let the instructions given here be carried out, and cut the blocks of wood as described, when the meaning and intention of every line will be clearly illustrated, and the way cleared for further progress.

Make E F 5 equal E F 5, Fig. 5. Take the distance F H, Fig. 5, in the compasses, with F, Fig. 6, as centre, strike an arc at A. With E A, Fig. 5, as a radius, and E, Fig. 6, as centre, strike an arc to intersect the first one at A. Join E A for horizontal trace and F A for the top edge of the block over A B. Draw from 5 parallel to F A, and from A parallel to F 5. Then O will be the centre of the ellipse, as it will be vertical over the centre on plan. A line drawn on an oblique plane square to the horizontal trace and passing through its centre is the major axis, and a line drawn parallel to the H T and passing through its centre is the minor axis. Make 2 3 0 5 equal 2 3 0 5, Fig. 5. Make 3 6 and 0 7 equal 8 6 and 0 7, Fig. 5, and trace the curve through A 6 7 5.

ON PROJECTION OF OBLIQUE PLANES, ETC.

Should any part of a plan be a circle, it will when projected on to an oblique plane be an ellipse.

Thus, take any one round piece of wood, cut one end off square to its side, this end will be a true circle. Cut the other end to any angle, which will then be an ellipse, and when the piece is stood on end will be vertical over the circle, its plan. Fig. 1 shows this. And it will be seen, no matter what angle the oblique plane may be, the minor axis never changes, it is always the same length as on plan, as are all lines parallel to it; but not so with the major axis, which always lengthens as the angle increases.

Fig. 2 shows a quarter of a circle projected on to an oblique plane, inclined 45? to the horizontal plane.

Fig. 3 shows a plank inclined 45? to the horizontal plane, with a quarter of an ellipse traced on its oblique surface. At any point on the curve draw a section line and a normal tangent. Cut the plank square through to the section line. Draw a level line on the square cut, and produce a bevel that will, when the stock is held to the section line on the oblique surface, produce with its blade a line across the cut that will be perpendicular to the level line on the square cut.

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