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A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE LONG AND VARIED CAREER OF Marshall MacDermott ESQ., J.P., OF ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.

WRITTEN SOLELY FOR PRIVATE DISTRIBUTION AMONGST RELATIVES AND SPECIAL FRIENDS.

ADELAIDE: WILLIAM KYFFIN THOMAS, PRINTER, GRENFELL-STREET.

A BRIEF SKETCH

OF THE

LONG AND VARIED CAREER

Marshall MacDermott, Esq., J.P.

OF ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.

During the voyage from Halifax, the convoy, including a large fleet of transports, encountered a "white squall," which only lasted about fifteen minutes. From the fury of the tempest the sea could not rise; it was smooth as a table, but covered with a dense white foam. The fleet had been carrying a press of sail, especially the dull sailors; when, like a clap of thunder, it was suddenly thrown on its beam ends. Sails were torn into ribbons and small spars and wreck were flying in all directions. Heavy rains then descended, followed by a dead calm, when an enormous sea arose--ships on the crest of the waves, finding others in the gulph below them under no control, and in imminent danger of crushing each other. Damages were repaired, and without any serious losses the fleet proceeded on its voyage.

The united force sailed from Barbadoes for Martinique, accompanied by the West India squadron, commanded by Sir Alexander Cochrane, who took up a position with the West Indian Division of Troops outside of Port Royal Harbour, on the west side of the island. The North American Division landed at Bay Robert, on the east side, and after two days' sharp fighting drove the French force, consisting of four regiments of the line and about 11,000 Militia, across the island, when they took refuge in the strong fortress of Fort Bourbon, disbanding their Militia. On this occasion I had the honour of carrying the King's colours of my regiment.

The siege of the fortress, armed with over 200 pieces of heavy ordnance, then commenced. The 8th Regiment was placed in position along a range of hills facing the fort, being a coffee plantation, forming part of the estate of the Empress Josephine of France. The ground had been recently broken up, and there being no tents, the heavy tropical rains severely tested the constitutions of the soldiers, who left their moulds in the loose earth on rising each following morning.

The mortar and breaching batteries maintained a heavy fire for about six weeks, when two breaches being reported practicable, the storming parties were told off for the assault on the following morning. At the dawn of day, however, a white flag was discernible; the garrison surrendered, marched out with the honours of war at 12 o'clock, piled arms, and were immediately placed on board transports for conveyance to Europe.

Four Imperial Eagles, the first Napoleon had ever lost, were among the trophies; afterwards placed in the Royal Chapel at Whitehall, London. The 8th Regiment chanced to encounter the French 8th of the line on this occasion, as it had previously done in Egypt; and was presented by the Commander-in-Chief with the fine set of brass drums delivered up by the latter corps.

Just previous to the arrival of the expedition, a French frigate, heavily laden with gunpowder for the garrison, had arrived at Martinique; but before it could be landed, preparations for cutting her out having been observed amongst the English fleet, she was blown up at night by the French. The whole island was shaken by the explosion; and the mountain of fire, with floating wreck clearly visible, was inconceivably grand and awful.

At this time, war with America appearing to be imminent, the North American Division was immediately embarked, and sailed for the defence of these provinces, landing at Halifax.

The 8th Regiment was ordered to embark, and sailed for Quebec in 1810, when it was thought the navigation of the River St. Lawrence would be open. The transports passed through the Gut of Causo towards evening, and entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence. About midnight they found themselves surrounded by broken ice, and four of the ships put back; but that in which I sailed continued her course. For three days and nights she was imperilled amongst floes of broken ice; fortunately, however, to leeward of a field of ice extending about 40 miles in length. The nights were dark, and men were placed on the bowsprit to watch the floating ice and give warning for the ship to put about. Very often the time was insufficient, and the ship's sides were so frequently felt to be grinding against the ice, that it was feared the planks might not be able to resist such frequent abrasions. A few days later she cleared the Gulf and entered the noble River St. Lawrence, 90 miles wide at its mouth, and 400 miles distant from Quebec. On approaching the city the scene was magnificent. On the right, the large Island of Orleans--a perfect garden. Further on, the Falls of Montmorency, 240 feet high; and in front, the river here taking a bend, the Citadel, and the City of Quebec on a very lofty elevation. The latter has a most remarkable appearance, all the steeples and houses being covered with bright tin, to facilitate the snow in shooting off from the roofs.

Both banks of the river, so far as it had been settled by the French in Lower Canada, were laid out on a uniform military plan--a town with a steeple every nine miles, where the Captain of Militia was stationed, one of his lieutenants being on the other flank and another in the centre.

The regiment was quartered at Quebec during the summer. At this time, however, the 2nd Battalion of the 8th had arrived at Halifax from England, and I was ordered to join it on promotion, which I did, sailing on board a man-of-war in which I had been offered a passage. Soon afterwards I was placed with a detachment at Melville Island, in charge of French prisoners of war amongst whom I observed an intelligent young midshipman, who I regretted to find herded with the common sailors, and frequently had him to breakfast at my quarters, after which we used to practice the small sword exercise with foils, and became tolerably efficient. After some time I applied to the Admiral, Sir J. B. Warren, and obtained his parole, which the young scamp subsequently broke, and disappeared.

In the year 1811, the 2nd Battalion 8th was stationed at St. John's, in the Province of New Brunswick, to which place, after marching through Nova Scotia, they crossed the Bay of Fundy. Here the tides rise forty feet, and enter a small gulf leading to the town of Windsor in the latter province, in the form of a bore, that is, suddenly, as a wall of water, nearly perpendicular, and eight or ten feet high.

The march occupied forty-two days, with a day's interval between each division or company. Fortunately, there had been just sufficient time to form two dep?ts of provisions on the line of march, thus making three stages of fourteen days each. On leaving each station officers and men alike had to carry on their backs fourteen days' provisions, personal baggage, arms, &c., and frequently to march on snow shoes, which, without other encumbrances, is a labour to those unpractised. The camping at evening presented a novel scene. Huts were formed of poles covered with branches of spruce-fir, leaving the tops open for the smoke to escape. Large fires were kept up the whole length of the huts; poles being staked down at proper distances on each side, against which, the sleeping soldiers rested their feet--their couches being formed of layers of spruce boughs on the snow, which made capital elastic beds. The march was successful, having only lost one man from the fall of a tree, and fourteen men afterwards discharged disabled from being severely frost-bitten.

When the snow was deep it was necessary to march in Indian files, that is, only one man in front to tread down a path, the leading man falling in rear after fifteen or twenty paces, the next then leading, and so on in succession, the fatigue on snow shoes being great. Another rule was, that the last man of each division should be an officer, to keep up stragglers. There happened to be a long march of twenty-five miles across Lake Tamiskwata, next to the grand portage between that lake and the River St. Lawrence, when it was my turn to be the last man of my division. A violent snow-storm commenced early in the day, and after marching about eight miles, a man was seized with convulsions. What was to be done? The snow was drifting in eddies and circles, obliterating the path in front. No wood was accessible to light a fire, and the man must not be left behind. Fortunately, the party had with them an Indian contrivance, called a "tobaugan," being a thin board twelve feet long turned up in front like a skate, used to relieve sick and weakly men of their loads. This was unpacked and the load distributed amongst those present; the sick man was covered with many blankets, tied on and dragged by the party, eight in number, in turns. Happily, they arrived safely at the end of their stage. My load on that day's march was, besides my own luggage and provisions, a soldier's knapsack and two muskets, my share of drawing the tobaugan, and marching on snow shoes. The division in front encountered great dangers in crossing the Grand Portage over a mountainous country; the snow drifting in circles, obliterating paths, and filling up deep hollows. Great risks arose from men lying down from fatigue, which required unwearied exertions on the part of the officers to prevent, to save them from perishing. After marching for twenty-two hours until daylight next morning, the division had only progressed eight miles, having been partially travelling in circles with the drifting snow.

The divisions struck the St. Lawrence ninety miles below Quebec, and the spontaneous kindness of the French Canadians could not have been exceeded. The carrioles, sleighs, and sledges of the whole district were assembled, and no man was suffered to march. They also fed the whole regiment during the route. On their arrival at Point Levi, opposite Quebec, where the river is over a mile wide, it was found that the ice had broken up and was floating down in great masses with a current of about six miles an hour. A number of large wooden canoes were collected, carrying about twenty men each, in the management of which the Canadians are very expert. After the men were seated the canoe was launched into open water, and the crew paddled away with all their might. When they encountered a large piece of ice they jumped out, and hauled up the canoe upon it, dragged it across, and launched it on the opposite side. This was rather a nervous operation, as the inclines, both in launching and hauling up, were very steep, and required holding on hard. This had to be repeated several times during the passage.

Early in the following spring the regiment embarked in steam-boats for Montreal. Shortly afterwards, a remarkable and most interesting ceremony took place there, at which I was present. The chiefs of about forty Indian nations, or tribes--some from the shores of the Pacific Ocean, distant about 4,000 miles--assembled at Government House for the purpose of holding a "talk" or council with the Governor-General, Sir George Prevost, and concluding a treaty with him--offensive and defensive. Each chief had been presented with a scarlet robe, and the scene was very imposing.

The chiefs, generally, were remarkably fine-looking men, their features Grecian, their carriage easy and graceful. Each chief, while addressing the Governor-General, held a "wampum" belt, handsomely embroidered with porcupine quills, and beads of various colours, which is their record of the treaty. When the recognised superior chief had concluded his speech he should have handed the "wampum" belt to the chief next in dignity of the Sioux tribe. It so happened, however, that he was passed over, and it was offered to him as the third speaker. He declined the honour in a most dignified and courteous manner, and would not deliver his address until after all the others had finished.

Their language was very poetical, figurative, and quite in the Ossian style, somewhat in the following manner:--

"Father, listen to your Red Children.

"We have come from the setting to the rising sun to help our Father in his time of need, and to live or die with him."

"Listen, Father.

"In days long past our Father and his Red Children fought with the Big Knives and they laid our Father on his back; and he held out his hand to the Big Knives but forgot his Red Children. We hope he will not do so again."

"Listen, Father.

"We ask our great Father at the other side of the Big Lake, to supply his Red Children with arms and ammunition, and to help us in our time of need."

Their addresses were long, and very beautiful; and six Canadians were found sufficient to interpret their numerous dialects.

After a short stay at Montreal, the regiment marched to La Prairie, near Lake Champlain, on the frontier of the State of New York, where a force of 10,000 men was assembled, including Militia, for the purpose of attacking the American fortress of Plattsburgh, on that lake. During the advance I was severely wounded in a night attack. A ball struck my chain wing, on the right shoulder, cutting it into three slugs which entered my neck close to the carotid artery, dividing the gullet, and lodged near the carotid artery on the other side, whence they were afterwards cut out, sundry sinews being attached to the brass chain. I lay all night on the field in a pool of blood, and was carried into camp the next morning. The copious bleeding--which was repeated three times afterwards by the surgeon--was probably, humanly speaking, the means of saving my life, which was spared by the mercy of Almighty God. From excessive inflammation and swelling nothing passed my lips for eight days, and then on taking a little milk and water it passed out through the wound over my shoulder. I recovered in six months; but the wound broke out again after fifteen years, from a cold, and was nearly fatal.

During the years 1813 and 1814 the 1st Battalion, 8th, 41st, and 49th Regiments, together with some Militia, had to defend a frontier of 1,500 miles, from Montreal to Michilimakina, on Lake Superior. The American fleets on the several lakes being generally superior, were enabled to land numerous forces to attack weak points. On such occasions the English troops had to concentrate by forced marches during summer and winter. Numerous sanguinary actions were fought, and their losses in killed and wounded were rarely equalled. But they not only maintained their ground, but took possession of the Michigan territory--larger than England--which was not restored to the Americans until after the treaty of peace.

During these campaigns the 1st Battalion of the 8th Regiment lost more in killed and wounded than their original number, viz., 45 officers and over 900 men. Its number, however, was maintained by drafts from the 2nd Battalion and recruits from England.

During the winter of 1814-15 a king's messenger arrived at Montreal with despatches, announcing the conclusion of a treaty of peace with America, and I was ordered to proceed with this despatch to Upper Canada to put an end to further hostilities. I travelled by sleigh with a pair of horses on the ice, driven by a French Canadian along the River St. Lawrence, avoiding the rapids at the several portages. When crossing Lake St. Francois--an expansion of the St. Lawrence--it being near the close of the winter, the ice broke under us. The driver was skilful, lashed his horses, which sprang with their fore-feet on the firm ice, giving them a fresh impulse; this also broke and several others in succession, until at length the firm ice was gained at some distance. The current underneath was very rapid. I delivered my despatch to the Commodore, Sir Jas. Yeo, on board his flag ship the "Ontario," 110 guns, at Kingston, Lake Ontario. This ship was an extraordinary object to see on a fresh water lake.

After my return from Upper Canada I rejoined the 1st Battalion of my regiment, and intelligence having arrived of the escape of Napoleon Bonaparte from Elba, 10,000 troops, chiefly composed of regiments recently arrived, and which had belonged to the army of the Duke of Wellington, were ordered to embark at Quebec, and were to receive further instructions on reaching the English Channel. Those troops were formed into three brigades, under Sir Geo. Murray, Sir Thos. Brisbane, and Sir Fredk. Robinson, with artillery, and equipped in all points ready to take the field. They sailed in the month of May, and expected to reach Europe in time to take part in the first battle with the army of Napoleon. When the fleet of transports reached the banks of Newfoundland it was enveloped in a dense fog, and the ships' bells were constantly ringing to prevent their falling foul of each other. Suddenly they entered a clear atmosphere, which was caused by the presence of numerous icebergs of enormous size. The Commodore, Sir Geo. Collyer, in the "Liffey" frigate, sailed close to one of them, and his royal-masts only reached two-thirds of its height. It must have been 100 feet high, and ice is always two-thirds under water; its length was about three miles, and its enormous bulk may thus be conceived. It must have broken off from some very high cliff. It appeared clear as crystal, and numerous rills of water were flowing down its sides forming gullies. The clear atmosphere extended within a radius of about five miles; after which the ships re-entered the fog on the opposite side.

On entering the English Channel a frigate was waiting the arrival of the fleet, and gave the intelligence that the Battle of Waterloo had been fought only seven days previously. The strong regiments landed in France and joined the army of occupation at Paris. The 8th landed at Portsmouth and marched to Windsor, where it was quartered.

On home service few events occur worth recording. Remaining two years at Windsor, the regiment embarked at Portsmouth for Malta. After passing Gibraltar, while becalmed off Cape de Gat, on the Spanish coast, a number of turtles were observed floating on the water. I, with some other officers, got into a boat and rowed towards them. They were apparently sleeping, and eight of them were caught by the fins and captured. One of them, however, weighing about 200 lbs., caught three of my fingers in its beak and cut me severely. I was quite willing to let my antagonist escape, but my opponent would not consent, and he was hauled on board still holding his prey. Fortunately, there was a marlinspike on board and the fingers were released, thus affording an illustration of "catching a Tartar."

Malta, with its magnificent harbour, is remarkable in many respects. Valletta, its capital, is built on a rock surrounded on three sides by the harbour, and is strongly fortified, as well as its three suburbs and dock-yard situated across the harbour. The parapets of the various fortifications by which all these places are enclosed are said to measure forty-two miles. The works are of great magnitude. When the island was held by the knights of Malta--formerly knights of Rhodes, and originally knights of St. John of Jerusalem--it is stated that at one period they had as many as 100,000 Saracens, prisoners of war, on the island, who were employed on these stupendous works.

The ditch between Valletta and its suburb Floreana is sixty feet wide and forty feet deep, cut out of solid rock, a sandstone resembling that at Bath. The catacombs between Valletta and Citta Vecchia, distant seven and a-half miles, are a perfect labyrinth of excavated galleries, and so many persons have been lost there that the dangerous passages have been walled up. Solid oblong masses of human skulls and bones have been piled in various places, and there are several spacious halls, supposed to have been used as places of concealment.

The Malta stone when first quarried is soft, but hardens by exposure. It is commonly worked in lathes in various beautiful forms, such as vases, balustrades, &c. The Palazzos of the Grand Knights are rich in architecture, generally quadrangles. The churches and public buildings are also very fine, and some of the monuments of the knights are beautiful; altogether the city is very handsome. The ditch, before referred to, had been converted by the knights into a beautiful garden, the soil of which had all been conveyed from Sicily in ships; and the walks had been so skilfully laid out as to convey a strong impression of extent.

While at Malta I was recommended for the appointment of Pay-master of my regiment, which I accepted, my prospects of promotion during peace being remote; and I proceeded to England, on leave of absence, on board a post office packet. This vessel was obliged to put in for repairs at Gibraltar, where she was detained eight days; affording me a fine opportunity for examining that celebrated fortress.

The neck of land which connects it with Spain is only 400 yards wide, over which the rock rises with a perpendicular face to a great height. Two wide galleries--one over the other--have been excavated along this north face, through which port-holes have been cut out at intervals for cannon, commanding the neutral ground. The east side is impregnable from perpendicular rock. The defences towards the bay on the west and on the south sides are very strong. The length of the rock from north to south is about three miles. Toward the centre the high ridge of rock dips considerably, and here a battery has been placed; on visiting which I found about 100 wild monkeys chattering. They jumped down the eastern face of the rock, catching stunted shrubs at intervals with their tails, until they reached the bottom. They are not allowed to be shot. The population of Gibraltar--about 16,000--is entirely dependent on rain for their supply of fresh water; but from flat roofs, and tanks under every house, besides large public reservoirs, they have sufficient and to spare for supplying ships of war.

During my visit to England the 8th Regiment was removed from Malta to Corf?, one of the Ionian Islands, and previous to my rejoining it overland I made arrangements for a tour extending over several months through France, Switzerland, and Italy. Passing through Calais, Boulogne, Abbeville, Montreuil, Beauvois, and St. Denis, I entered Paris, where I remained, in company with a brother officer, for a fortnight. Being resolved to see everything remarkable which time would admit of during this tour, I worked hard, early and late. At this time Paris was not the beautiful city it has since become, and its population has now been more than doubled. The gutters were made in the centre of the streets, which were not kept over cleanly; there were no footpaths--nor was the improved system of road-making by McAdam then adopted. Oil lamps were attached to ropes suspended across the streets, and early risers ran the risk of encountering shower baths of questionable purity, ejected from the windows. Leaving Paris in a south-east direction, the ascent of Mount Jura commences from Dijon, a distance of about 380 miles from Paris. Many of the old Roman roads still remained, paved with large blocks of stone, which were very rough travelling, and planted on each side with poplars or cypress. On reaching the summit of the road over the Jura Mountains you come suddenly upon a most magnificent view--Mount Blanc, the range of Alps, the lake and city of Geneva, Lausanne, the exit of the river Rhone from the lake, and many other interesting objects. Days might be occupied in contemplating such a view. Below Geneva, one and a-half miles, the Rhone forms a junction with the Arve. At this place was fought one of Julius Caesar's great and decisive battles.

After crossing the Simplon the first Italian town is Duomo Dossola; after which the road passes along the shore of Lake Maggiore--the scenery still being beautiful. The small island of Isola Bella is situated in this lake, and is quite unique. On its summit stands a palazzo, of Italian architecture, surrounded by three broad terraces, below each other, down to the water's edge, and planted in a most tasteful and ornamental manner. Under the palace there is an extensive natural cave, in which is a spring of running water. This cave is formed into a grotto, embellished with coral and shell work, and must be a delightful retreat during the heat of summer.

On the shore opposite Isola Bella is situated the colossal bronze statue of Prince Carlo Borromeo, a Bishop or Cardinal. The pedestal is thirty-six feet high, and the statue seventy-two feet, in all 108 feet. The figure appears in Roman costume, with a Bible in the left hand. The interior is ascended by ladders, and it is said that eight persons could sit within the head. This statue was erected by the inhabitants of Milan in gratitude for the devoted labours of the Prince during the great plague which visited that city three or four centuries back.

Travellers enter Milan through a beautiful marble triumphal arch, erected in honour of Napoleon. The Duomo or Cathedral is a wonderful building of white marble, the fa?ade of which was not completed until he had conquered Italy, although the remainder of the building, which has been very costly, had been commenced in the year 1386. At the top of each pinnacle, and in various recesses, are placed marble statues, said to be 3,000 in number. This building should be viewed at night during the full moon, when it has the appearance of ivory, and is a sight rarely equalled.

Being desirous of visiting Venice, I left my fellow-travellers at Milan; having arranged to rejoin them at Florence, I proceeded through the valley of the Po, by way of Bergamo, Breschia, Peschiera, Verona, and Padua, from whence I crossed the Lagoon to Venice.

The Province of Lombardy is very beautiful, situated between the Alps and Apennines, and watered by many rivers. The country generally is divided into square blocks, and extensively irrigated. These blocks are surrounded by mulberry trees planted at regular intervals, and grape vines are festooned from tree to tree. The fruit, being ripe at this time, presented a rich and lovely scene. The fertility of the soil, consequent upon irrigation, is very great, producing generally three crops annually. The culture of silk is very valuable in many respects. It employs a large number of women and children at their own homes, and the annual export of silk, raw and manufactured, amounts to about four millions sterling.

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