Read Ebook: A Brief Sketch of the Long and Varied Career of Marshall MacDermott Esq. J.P. of Adelaide South Australia by MacDermott Marshall
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The Province of Lombardy is very beautiful, situated between the Alps and Apennines, and watered by many rivers. The country generally is divided into square blocks, and extensively irrigated. These blocks are surrounded by mulberry trees planted at regular intervals, and grape vines are festooned from tree to tree. The fruit, being ripe at this time, presented a rich and lovely scene. The fertility of the soil, consequent upon irrigation, is very great, producing generally three crops annually. The culture of silk is very valuable in many respects. It employs a large number of women and children at their own homes, and the annual export of silk, raw and manufactured, amounts to about four millions sterling.
Leaving Venice, the road to Florence passes through Ferrara and Bologna. Here the Campo Santo, or burial ground, is worth visiting; it contains many handsome monuments, and the gateway at the entrance is fine--the pillars of which are surmounted by colossal marble statues of "Time" and "Death." Exquisite paintings are also to be seen here.
Crossing the Apennines, you pass a spot called Pietra Mala, where gas escapes from the earth through small fissures, which were burning at the time. The flame did not rise above five or six inches, but varies according to the state of the atmosphere, and it spread over about half an acre of ground.
I rejoined my fellow-travellers at Florence, where I remained ten days. This is a most delightful city, containing a variety of interesting objects. The Palazzo Pitti--the then Archducal residence--contains some of the most valuable paintings and sculptures to be found anywhere--the latter including the Venus de Medicis and Apollo Belvedere. Costly works in Mosaics and Cameos are produced at Florence, where artists in such works are very skilful. The Duomo, or Cathedral, is a fine building, and the fountains are ornamental.
Passing through Arezzo, Trasimene , Perugia, Spoleto, Terni, you enter Rome--the Eternal City. The travellers here remained a fortnight working hard to examine the objects of highest interest. The first attraction was the Cathedral of St. Peter, which took 150 years to build, at a cost of forty-five millions of crowns; and here you are lost in wonder at the magnitude of its proportions, 569 feet long and 487 feet high. On the right hand, as you enter, you see a baptismal font, supported by two angels of a miniature size to appearance, compared with other objects around; but when you approach them they are colossal. In the nave there are twelve elevated recesses, in each of which stands a statue of one of the Apostles. A ladder stood against one of them, to enable a workman to do some repairs. As he stood in the recess his head reached to the knee of the statue. The size of each object is so admirably adjusted that nothing seems disproportioned. There are twelve side-chapels--six on each side of the nave; and over each altar is placed a copy, in Mosaic, of some celebrated painting. They measured fifteen feet by twelve feet high. The first examined by our travellers was a copy of the transfiguration, by Raphael. One of them, who had long promised himself a feast in viewing that picture, was in raptures, and it was some time before he discovered that it was a Mosaic copy--the original being in the Vatican. The High Altar, an elevation, I think, of 104 feet, is grand. In the Piazza in front, 1,000 feet long, stands an ancient obelisk brought from Egypt, being a single piece of granite, eighty-three feet high, and two handsome fountains; the piazza being enclosed on two sides by stately semi-circular colonnades of four columns abreast, sixty feet high, and 372 in number.
The treasures of art contained in the Vatican are so numerous as to baffle description. The studios of Canova and Thorvaldsen were visited, as also those of the most skilful artists in Mosaics and Cameos. Many of the antiquities deserve close inspection--the Columns of Antonine and Trajan; the Triumphal Arches of Septimus Severus, Titus, and Constantine; the Capitol and Tarpeian Rock; the Temples of Concord, Jupiter Stater, Anthony and Faustina, and of Peace, the prison in which St. Peter was confined.
From Rome to Naples you pass through Frascati, Velletri, Frosinone, Pontecorvo, and Capua, once the winter quarters of Hannibal and his army. Shortly after leaving Rome you cross the Pontine Marshes, extending south about thirty or forty miles, which infect the air to such a degree in summer as to resemble a plague. Although apparently fertile, it is almost depopulated, and with few habitations. The malaria arises from stagnant swamps, and their few inhabitants are wretched objects, emaciated and pot-bellied, generally dying prematurely from dropsy. Few efforts in modern times had been made to drain them, the resources of the Pontifical Government being absorbed in unnecessary churches and processions.
A large body of banditti, generally prisoners, escaped from the galleys, and then, supposed to number about 400, infested the neighbouring mountains; and several gibbets were seen at intervals on the road, at places where murders had been committed by them. A few days previously they entered the town of Tivoli and carried off two of the principal inhabitants, for whose ransom they demanded 3,000 crowns, and the Government seemed quite unable to suppress those disorders.
The situation of Naples, with its magnificent Bay, is much to be admired. The Royal "Museum Borbonico" contains objects of the highest interest--a vast number of articles of ancient glass, mostly Egyptian, Sicilian Vases, &c.; and the collections from Herculaneum and Pompeii, consisting of ancient instruments, utensils, female ornaments, and household articles found in those cities, and recently removed here from the museum at Portici, are quite unique. The Grottos of Posillipo and del Cane are close to Naples. In the latter, a noxious gas is so powerful that nothing living can exist within it. Dogs held by cords entering into it four or five feet become insensible, and are dragged out. The tomb of Virgil is near this place. The ancient manuscripts brought from Herculaneum are like pieces of charcoal about a foot long. I saw a person trying to unroll one of them. He used an apparatus like a miniature windlass, with a number of fine threads hanging from the barrel, under which the manuscript was placed. When the end of the roll was found, those threads were attached to it by means of scraps like goldbeaters' leaf, and then most carefully wound up until more scraps were required. Many gaps were left, and in most cases the task was hopeless. I was informed that the matter hitherto deciphered from those papyri was not of much interest.
An early visit was made to Herculaneum and Pompeii, on Mount Vesuvius. After being buried in lava or ashes for 1,600 years their discovery was remarkable. A nobleman residing near Portici, a spot of high elevation, thought that if he could penetrate the various beds of lava by sinking a shaft he might find water. After sinking about seventy feet, the workmen came upon a flight of marble steps, which, being followed, led into a theatre in Herculaneum. There had been a statue near this place, which had been thrown down, and in the lava which had flown over it was found a fine cast of the statue. The theatre was excavated, and some other buildings, but the city having been destroyed by lava, it was too costly to make very extensive excavations, and everything perishable was destroyed by the burning lava.
Pompeii had been buried in ashes, and was situated on a plain, at the foot of Vesuvius. A vineyard had been planted over its site. On ploughing the land nearly a century back, the workmen were obstructed by a stone wall; and on excavations being made, houses were discovered which proved to be part of the ancient city of Pompeii. When visited by me a large portion had been cleared. Its overthrow had evidently taken the inhabitants by surprise, for many skeletons were found in the houses. One of them had been laid prostrate on his face, with a bunch of keys in one hand and some coins in the other. Many signs and names over shops remained, and in the streets paved with lava the ruts of cart wheels were visible. Fresco paintings on the walls still remained; and also the inscriptions on tombs in the burial-ground. There were some temples, but of no great magnitude, and the houses generally had but one story.
The next visit was made to Vesuvius, and I having taken leave with regret of my fellow-travellers and school-fellows, whose journey terminated at Naples, proceeded to the Mount, accompanied by three foreign gentlemen--a Russian, a Pole, and a Dane. At this time the eruption of the volcano was very active, and an English naval officer had his arm broken on the previous day by a falling stone, owing to an unexpected change of wind; it being necessary during eruptions to approach the crater on the windward side. The party slept for a few hours at a hermitage half way up the ascent, in order to obtain a view of the rising sun over the Bay of Naples, which is certainly a most glorious sight. From this place the ascent is very rough--over sharp-pointed, heated lava; a stream of which, about six feet wide and four miles long, was then flowing, falling over a cliff and filling a valley beyond. Seen in the dark it was a bright red colour, but by daylight it was of a dull dark colour. A piece of it was scraped out, and the impression of a coin was made on it. The crater was nearly half a mile in diameter, and threw up large stones and ashes to a great height, accompanied by a fearfully roaring noise. The travellers were enabled to look down towards the bottom of the crater, but from the confusion of flames, gases, and smoke, no correct idea could be formed of its depth. The stream of lava was flowing from a hole at the side of the cone. The stones thrown up generally fell nearly perpendicularly, but the ashes are blown to leeward, generally towards the east, where the descent is extremely steep, and attended with some little danger. The ascent of the mount occupies several hours, but the descent on this side is effected with great rapidity. The travellers agreed to attempt it. You step with one foot on deep fine ashes, which slide down with you twenty or thirty feet; you then put down the other foot, sliding down in like manner, and so on alternately until you reach the bottom. The danger consists in over-balancing yourself, when you must roll down to the bottom--some 5,000 or 8,000 feet, I think--but by holding your head and shoulders well back you avoid this.
From Naples I travelled alone through Calabria and Apulia, across the Southern Apennines to the Adriatic Sea--having passed over the place where so many bushels of rings were collected from the fingers of the Roman senators who had fallen in battle. On my arrival at Barletta, I found a British gun-boat bound for Corf?, in which I embarked for that island.
This most delightful tour, which can never be forgotten, was thus accomplished. Travellers seeking pleasure will visit France; those partial to magnificent scenery and tranquillity, Switzerland; but for antiquities, and the arts, you must visit Italy.
I rejoined my regiment at Corf?, one of the Ionian Islands, situated opposite the coast of Albania, where the celebrated Ali Pasha, of Janina, nominally, ruled as Viceroy under the Sultan of Constantinople. He was said to possess in his treasury ?8,000,000 sterling, and at that time contemplated shaking off the yoke of Turkey. He requested an interview with Colonel Charles Napier, then on the staff at Corf?, and afterwards Commander-in-Chief in India; and it was believed that the Pasha proposed to him to raise and command a military force to accomplish his object. It was further said that Colonel Napier agreed to the proposal, provided the sum of ?1,000,000 sterling was placed at his disposal for the purpose. This, however, the Pasha declined, being very parsimonious. He shortly afterwards rebelled, and lost his treasure and his life.
The citadel of Corf? was strong, but its value as a military post was doubtful, as fleets could easily pass into the Adriatic unperceived during the night. The chief products of the island were olive oil and wine. At this time a violent earthquake took place in the middle of the night. I was awakened from a sound sleep by the shaking of my bed; the church bells were ringing from the concussions; and the inhabitants were screaming and rushing into the streets. Many walls were fractured, but no houses were overthrown at Corf?. This shock, however, was very powerful throughout the Ionian Islands, and nearly 800 houses were overthrown or seriously damaged by it at Zante. Shortly afterwards, Colonel Sir Patrick Ross was desirous of making an extensive tour, to occupy a year, through Egypt, Nubia, Palestine, Asia Minor, Constantinople, Thessaly, Macedonia, and Peloponnesus, and invited Colonel Duffy, Dr. Cartan, and myself to join him. We all agreed to do so, and our plans being arranged, we applied to the Lord High Commissioner for leave of absence. He declined to grant it, to our great regret, on the ground that, as the proposed tour would be through countries subject to Turkey and Greece, and the latter country being then in a state of insurrection, we should be subject to insults, which might embarrass the English Government.
The Greek insurrection having now become very general, the inhabitants of Zante manifested a strong disposition to join in the revolt. The 8th Regiment was suddenly ordered to embark for that island, having only four hours' notice. The officers had only time to pack up their portmanteaus, leaving the remainder of their luggage behind, and some officers who had been out shooting were obliged to embark in their shooting-dresses.
The regiment arrived at Zante after a passage of eight days in a ship densely crowded, which had to put back to renew its supply of water. It rained nearly the whole time, and the heat below being intolerable, the greater number remained on deck night and day. At this time the insurrection was in full activity, and the Zantiates in a state of great excitement. Shortly afterwards a cannonading was heard at sea, and a Turkish ship of war came in sight, chased by sixteen Greek armed merchant ships. The Turk, having been crippled in his rigging, found that he could not weather a certain headland, and observing the red coats of a few soldiers, who had been sent there to maintain the quarantine laws, he ran his ship ashore to obtain their protection. He had fought a most gallant action. For nearly two hours those sixteen ships had in succession been pouring in broadsides, raking in crossing his bows, firing again on the opposite side, and again raking in crossing his stern, and yet he never struck his colours. When the cannonading had ceased, the peasantry commenced firing on the Turk with their long muskets. And when the soldiers were pushing them back--forming a cordon--they began firing on the troops. I happened to be there mounted as a spectator, and recommended the young officer to collect his men on a neighbouring hill, and defend himself as well as he could, while I galloped into town, four miles distant, for reinforcements. These soon arrived, and quickly dispersed the mob. Three soldiers, however, had been killed and their bodies barbarously mutilated.
When the report reached Corf?, Sir Frederick Adam came down, declared martial law, and held a Court of High Commission under the Venetian laws, which had been guaranteed to the Islanders; and after a very patient investigation, selected four of the principal ringleaders, who were hung two hours after sentence was passed.
The Ionian Greeks had always been in the habit of carrying long muskets and pistols, even when pursuing their daily labour. Sir Frederick Adam immediately issued a proclamation for disarming the population. In every district, town, and village the inhabitants were ordered, under severe penalties, to bring in their arms, which were piled in heaps and burned in the presence of English officers appointed for that purpose. A few years previously, the French, with a garrison of three regiments, had attempted the same thing and failed.
Some time afterwards I was seated at a window overlooking the bay, and heard a distant heavy cannonading; presently a perfect cloud of ships came in sight with all sail crowded, which proved to be Greek armed merchantmen, numbering ninety sail. They were pursued by the Turkish fleet, consisting of sixty men of war, including four sail of the line and twelve heavy frigates. Just as the two fleets were abreast of the bay, a violent squall of wind came on, and the Turkish fleet entered the bay, allowing the Greeks to escape. This they should not have done, as, in such weather, heavy ships possess very decided advantages.
About this time, Major-General Sir John Malcolm, K.C.B., arrived at Zante from Persia, at which Court he had been British Minister. He accepted an invitation to become an honorary member of the mess of the 8th Regiment, and remained about a fortnight. He related many interesting particulars respecting his journey across the Syrian Desert to Cairo in his own curricle, he being the first person who had ever travelled this route by such a conveyance. He said he had encountered no difficulties, and had found it a most convenient and comfortable mode of travelling.
The Zante currant is a most valuable product, and is there extensively cultivated. There are two parallel ranges of limestone hills in that island, and the valley between is a rich black loam, varying from three to four miles wide, and twenty-five miles long, or from seventy-five to 100 square miles. This valley is wholly cultivated for that plant. When the fruit is ripe, oblong patches of ground, about twenty feet by thirty, are carefully levelled, wetted, plastered over, and when dry, swept clean from dust; the fruit is spread to dry on these in single layers, and awnings are drawn over them at night to protect them from the dews. The black surface attracts the heat; the fruit is generally dry and fit to pack for market in about ten days, in hogsheads weighing 1,000 lbs. , and is usually repacked in England in small boxes.
After passing a year at Zante, the military authorities were desirous of removing the 8th Regiment to Cephalonia, but the necessary shipping not being available, Captain Hamilton of the "Cambrian" Frigate, volunteered to take them there, inviting half the officers into his own cabin, the remainder being guests in the wardroom.
A party, including myself, proceeded to visit Ithaca, a narrow channel of about seven miles separating it from Cephalonia. This visit was full of interest.
Ithaca is a small island in shape like an hour-glass. The far-famed castle of Ulysses is situated on this elevated narrow neck, and commands a most magnificent view, second to none in the eyes of persons of classical tastes. From that spot you behold Sappho's Leap ; the River Meander, on the Coast of Epirus; Cape Lepanto; the snow-capped mountains of Albania--Mounts Parnassus, Pindas, and Olympus; the Suitors' Island, Ulysses' Cave, and the spot where the Fountain of Arethusa is situated in Ithaca. Of the ruins of Ulysses Castle there are still considerable remains. The walls are Cyclopian, the stones of which weigh generally eight or ten tons each, and form all sorts of angles so admirably joined together as to present a level outer surface, with very small openings at the joints, and without any cement, somewhat like a tesselated pavement. This is the most antique description of Cyclopian wall. Those of more recent periods are cut square or oblong with smooth faces, and in the most recent the edges are levelled.
It was an ancient custom of the Greeks to bury their dead wearing their trinkets, and coins were placed in their mouths to pay their ferry across the Styx to Charon. These were of gold, silver, or copper, according to the position in life of deceased. A place of interment was discovered not far from the castle; it was a bare, smooth, sandstone rock of considerable extent. The graves were excavated about three feet deep, and the stone slabs covering them were so accurately fitted, the joints also being covered with grass, that it required the most skilful and practised eye to detect them. An English officer stationed on the island had made a most valuable collection of these articles. He separated from his most choice assortment the coins of the period of Alexander the Great, as being "modernissimo"--too recent to deserve a place in it.
Shortly after returning to Argostoli, a severe shock of an earthquake took place. The regiment was standing in a line on parade, and the line had a serrated appearance. The tiles on the roofs of houses were moving, and a mounted officer had to dismount his horse which was trembling in every limb. The damages occasioned, however, were not very serious.
About this time, Lord Byron arrived at Argostoli in his yacht from Italy, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Trelawney, Count Gamba, and an Italian medical gentleman. He retained his yacht for about three weeks, and frequently entertained the officers of the regiment on board, sometimes until late hours. He was very temperate on such occasions; drinking claret and water, or soda water. His conversation was usually full of interest. Trelawney used to relate many of his wild stories during his residence for some years in Arabia, amongst the Wahabee tribes. One evening some one referred to Lord Byron having swam across the Hellespont, from Sestos to Abydos; but Trelawney made light of it, and challenged Lord Byron to swim with him across the channel from Cephalonia to Ithaca. The challenge was accepted, but afterwards Trelawney drew back. At the end of three weeks, Lord Byron discharged his yacht, and took a villa about four miles from the town. He usually rode in in the afternoon, and took his wine at the mess, after which he frequently joined small parties of officers in their rooms to smoke cigars. Lord Byron received a letter from Lady Byron at his villa, when two of the officers were with him, informing him of the illness of his daughter Ada. He shed tears on that occasion, and appeared to be deeply affected.
At the mess the conversation usually turned upon the Greek insurrection then raging, and the character of their leaders. These were generally unprincipled men, who had numerous followers while they obtained abundance of plunder; but when that attraction failed they were deserted for more fortunate commanders. Numerous bodies, in the field one day, were scattered the next; and the central Government had no organized force on which they could rely.
Lord Byron was fully satisfied as to the correctness of this description. He said, however, that he felt so deeply interested in their cause from admiration of the ancient glories of their race, that he had determined to place himself and all his means at their disposal. As to the manner, however, in which he could best accomplish his object, he was desirous of receiving advice. The general opinion was that he should raise a permanent force, to be regularly paid and trained, to be always held at the disposal of the central Government.
Some time previous to this, the Suliotes, an Albanian tribe of Greeks, obtained information that Ali Pasha of Yanina was preparing to burn their villages as a punishment for some outrage they had committed; the whole population, therefore, abandoned their homes, and took refuge in Cephalonia. The small Peninsula of Asso was assigned for their temporary residence, and there they encamped. Their number, including women and children, was about 2,000, and they could muster above 400 fighting men. These readily entered into Lord Byron's service, and formed the nucleus of the force he afterwards placed at the disposal of the Greek Government. They were remarkably fine men, and their costume was quite picturesque.
At this time I obtained leave of absence to England, and Lord Byron entrusted me with the manuscript of the last portion of any poem he ever wrote, namely, the three last cantos of "Don Juan," to be delivered to Sir John Cam. Hobhouse. I had a handsome portable brass bedstead which Lord Byron was desirous of having, and on that bedstead he died, in the fortress of Missalonghi, opposite the coast of Cephalonia, which withstood a long siege by the Turks.
It may here be mentioned the very general opinion held as to the character of the belligerents. The Greeks were considered a lawless race, in whose veracity or integrity no reliance could be placed. The Turks, on the contrary, although sometimes fanatical, were held to be a people of integrity, on whose word you might rely. Neither, however, were wanting in bravery.
The 8th Regiment was ordered home, and was stationed in the Citadel of Plymouth in the year 1826, where I rejoined it. While there, the great storm took place, by which twenty-seven ships were wrecked in Plymouth harbour, and the military barrack partially unroofed. At one spot eight ships were so jammed together that it was difficult to distinguish the wreck of one from the other. The storm commenced towards evening with great fury, and while I was on my way to the mess-room I met an old brother officer hurrying to get on board his ship before dark, as it was to sail next morning for Demerara. I persuaded him to dine with me at the mess, and that night his ship parted in two at the water-line, the upper works being new.
During the next year the regiment proceeded to Glasgow. At a previous period it had been employed there in suppressing some riots, and had fallen into bad odour. This had not then been forgotten. Great distress, however, prevailed at this time, and the officers and men subscribed a day's pay towards their relief, which created a most amicable feeling towards them.
Leaving Londonderry, the regiment was next quartered at Enniskillen, situated on Loch Erne. The scenery in this neighbourhood is beautiful, and the hospitality of its numerous gentry could not be surpassed. Sir Henry Brooke, Bart., had a splendid mansion, including forty bedrooms. There were fox-hounds and harriers, and the hunting parties generally included three or four ladies. There was excellent shooting, and any number of guns with gamekeepers; good salmon and trout fishing, with plenty of tackle; and billiard tables. There was a succession of company during the season, each party being invited for three or four days, with horses and carriages for their use. The tenantry had been living on the estate for three or four generations, many of them wealthy, and to crown all the host and hostess were most amiable and accomplished persons.
A general order to the troops serving in Ireland was issued at this time, directing an officer and two sergeants from each regiment to proceed to Dublin to be instructed in the broadsword exercise, which they were afterwards to teach to the officers and men of their respective regiments. I volunteered to proceed on this duty, and became an honorary member of the mess of the Rifle Brigade. A very eminent swordsman, Mr. Michael Angelo, was the instructor at the Riding School of the Royal Barracks. The instruction lasted for four months, and was a very fine exercise, bringing every muscle into action. But the regimental drills afterwards were very troublesome, and occupied much time.
From Enniskillen the regiment proceeded to Newry, and not long afterwards from thence to Dublin. This station was very popular with the officers, from its very extensive circle of good society. At this time I had turned my thoughts towards the Australian Colonies, and sought advice from Sir Thos. Brisbane, in whose brigade I had formerly served. He strongly recommended New South Wales, of which colony he had recently been Governor. It may here be mentioned that when an honorary member of the 8th mess in Lower Canada, when encamped on the frontier of the United States, his conversation frequently turned upon the subject of astronomy, and he expressed a wish, when his military services were not required, to proceed to New South Wales, for the purpose of observing the transit of the planet Venus. This wish was gratified; and he caused the observatory at Parramatta, near Sydney, to be erected for that purpose.
The colony of Western Australia was being formed at this time; and the large concessions of land offered to the settlers by the Government on easy terms induced me to select that colony for my future residence. Two officers of the Rifle Brigade, Captains Molloy and Byrne, proposed to accompany me. And it was agreed that they should join me in purchasing a ship, to be loaded with wooden houses and boats, and to convey the three parties and their establishments to the new settlement.
I proceeded to Gothenburgh, in Sweden, for that purpose, where a fine ship of 500 tons was purchased, and during her repairs a cargo of wooden houses was framed and loaded. I then proceeded with a fine Swedish crew to Christiansand in Norway, where a large number of boats were shipped. The character and scenery both of Sweden and Norway reminded me of Nova Scotia, from their extensive pine forests, numerous lakes, and granite rocks. Intemperance was prevalent from the use of ardent spirits, the climate being cold; and the observation occurred to me that in warmer, wine-producing countries intoxication is much less frequent.
The ship proceeded to Cowes, in the Isle of Wight, and I by Post-Office Packet to Harwich, on the coast of England. I travelled from thence into Derbyshire, where the family of my affianced wife resided at Holme Hall, and was there happily married. I had been desirous of avoiding the frequent inconvenience of moving about with a family while in the army, and my wife was willing to share my fortunes in Australia.
From the delay referred to, arising from the King's illness, I did not arrive in Western Australia until June, 1830. The passage from England was favourable, although tedious, only touching at the Cape de Verde Islands. And on arrival at the anchorage at Fremantle, I and my wife were hospitably received at the house of Mr. George Leake, the leading merchant at that time.
An entirely new career now lay before me, but I had health and strength for the undertaking. I was fortunate in finding shelter in a colony only founded the previous year. My less fortunate predecessors at an earlier period, finding neither houses or sheds, had to resort to tents; and their handsome furniture, including satin and gilt chairs, harps, grand pianos , lay exposed to all weathers on the beach. My first object was to find land for a homestead within a moderate distance from Perth, the capital. But such lands had all been already selected; and although I was entitled according to regulations to select 27,000 acres, in virtue of property and servants introduced, I found it necessary to purchase 5,000 acres on the Swan River, about nine miles from Perth. The Governor, Sir James Stirling, had a summer residence adjoining this land, the use of which he offered to me until I could erect some temporary accommodation, and the offer was thankfully accepted.
The purchased land was on the navigable part of the River Swan for boats, and my luggage and stores were conveyed to it by contract.
I had brought out as servants nineteen souls, including one family; and now hard work was to be done, in which I took my full share. In a short time, temporary accommodation, including a small cottage, store, and huts for the men, were erected; the luggage and stores under shelter, and a commencement made in clearing land for tillage.
Troubles had to be surmounted at an early period. Not many months had elapsed when an alarm of fire was given at a late hour one evening, during my absence at Perth, and the store, containing from twenty to thirty tons of provisions, luggage, furniture, &c., was in a blaze. As the roof was of thatch and the building contained some gunpowder, it was dangerous to attempt saving anything--all was destroyed. The dwelling was within thirty feet of it, but the wind blew from it, and a providential shower of rain then falling saved that building. The origin of the fire was not discovered, but a discontented servant was suspected. His passage from England had been provided, and he was under a written engagement, at moderate wages, to serve for three years; this he endeavoured to break without repaying his passage-money. However, he was discharged, but was afterwards convicted, in another service, on a felonious charge and transported.
There were some very fine alluvial flats, on the banks of the Swan, on which no live stock had been depastured. In conjunction with another gentleman I arranged, during the following season, to mow the land for hay, at that time worth ?14 per ton. Three stacks, of fifty tons each, were made; but the aborigines, not having seen anything of the sort before, were desirous of witnessing the effect of a large fire, and stuck firebrands into them--which made short work. They were all destroyed.
The Governor, Sir James Stirling, undertook to lead an exploring party to examine the country between Perth and King George's Sound, which was then unknown. I and some other gentlemen entitled to select land accompanied him, also some surveyors. A couple of drays drawn by oxen, and loaded with provisions and some surveying instruments, accompanied the party. The character of the country was very variable. After a few days' travelling, the cattle fed on some poisonous plants and several of them died, at our camping place, during the night. One of the drays, some provisions and instruments, were necessarily abandoned there. Shortly afterwards, we struck on a river, then named the Williams, situated in a fine and apparently extensive district. Some of the party proceeded up the valley about twenty miles the following day, and camped for the night. I and another gentleman, however, strolled a couple of miles from the camp, in a southerly direction, and returning northerly, we felt satisfied that the river would bring us up and that we could not miss the camp, even at night. The bed of the river at that time, however, was a succession of pools, and the long intervals between them were thickly grassed. We thus crossed the river without knowing it, after dusk, over one of those intervals, and lost ourselves. Thinking there might be some extraordinary bend of the river, we walked on until midnight, and then lay down to rest. There was no water and nothing eatable except a morsel of cheese the size of a walnut, which we divided. After consultation, we started at daylight on a due west course, hoping to cut the track made by Sir James Stirling's party travelling south. This we happily discovered towards evening, and rested for the night. On the evening of the third day we rejoined the main party, which had been searching for us, and had almost given us up as lost.
It was arranged that on the following day those entitled to select land should again proceed up the Williams River for that purpose, accompanied by a surveyor, Sir James Stirling and the remainder of the party proceeding in a south direction to accomplish the chief object of the expedition. On reaching a selected point on the river, the measurement was to commence. The surveying instruments, chains, &c., had been abandoned where the bullocks died. The surveyor had a compass, but distances had to be paced. Long frontages to the river were desirable, and long legs possessed an advantage--subject, however, to a final survey, when any surplus would be struck off from the back land. The general course of the river was from S.W. to N.E., but very winding. A tree was marked on the river's bank, from whence the surveyor started due east, the paces being counted; but after pacing a mile, the river still receding, a due north course was taken to strike the river again, and so on alternately east and north, until the required due east direction was attained. This process gave me about ten miles of river frontage, although the due east measurement was scarcely half that distance.
The Williams district was undulating, well grassed, and the soil in the vicinity of the river excellent, producing abundance of sandal wood. A mob of about 200 kangaroos was started during the day, and some of the party had a good gallop after them. About three days were occupied in making the selections, after which the surveyor was instructed on his return to Perth to explore a new country westward of that already travelled.
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