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A thousand years had elapsed since Harald Haarfager gained the battle of Hafsfjord, and united Norway under one crown.

At Hafsfjord, by a strange coincidence, King Harald Haarfager, having reigned, it is said, from about 861 to 931, was buried, according to the ancient sagas, near the town of Haugesund, not far from the scene of his memorable victory, the last of a series of conquests which gave to Norway one king.

The battle of Hafsfjord also accomplished King Harald's vow, and gave to him the hand of Gyda, the handsome daughter of Eric, King of Hordaland, who, in answer to his proposals, had said, she would never throw herself away, even to take a king for a husband, who had only a few districts to rule over.

The obelisk of granite, erected near Haugesund, on the grave of Harald Haarfager, to commemorate the event, is seventy feet high. Surrounding its base, twenty-one pillars, eight feet high, are inscribed with the names of the twenty-one petty kingdoms, into which ancient Norway was formerly divided. Bronzed reliefs on the pedestal record that Harald Haarfager is buried beneath, and that the monument was erected one thousand years after he had consolidated Norway into one kingdom.

At a grand National Jubilee Festival, at Haugesund, on the 19th July, 1872, his present Majesty the King of Norway and Sweden, then Prince Oscar, with a large assemblage of the people of Norway, inaugurated the monument.

The day was fine, and the associations of a thousand years carried the mind back through the far distance of time to the battle of Hafsfjord, when, to apply the words of "Sigvat the Scald,"--

Loud was the battle-storm there, When the King's banner flamed in air, The King beneath his banner stands, And the battle he commands.

His late Majesty was also a poet and an artist. Two interesting volumes of the late King's poems, entitled "En Samling Dikter" , and "Sm?rre Dikter" are the scintillations of a bright and imaginative mind--"Till Sverige" , "Borgruinen" , "Fjerran" , "Ensamheten" , "Trosbek?nnelse" , "I dr?mmen" , "Hvar bor Friden" , "Kallan" , "Ziguenerskan" , with other poems form the Inneh?l, or contents of the "Sm?rre Dikter." The larger volume--"En Samling Dikter"--includes "Heidi Gylfes Dotter" , "En Viking Gasaga" "Hafsfrun" , "Tre Natter" , and several other poems.

It is beautifully engraved by the author of "Scrambles Amongst the Alps," indeed, this and the engravings illustrating this work, which have all been taken from original sketches of the author, or photographs obtained specially for the work, are by Mr. Edward Whymper, to whom the author is much indebted for his prompt attention, when a very short space of time could only be allowed for their completion.

An additional interest will also be felt by the reader in knowing that the work is true, even to the names of the gipsies.

So must close our Introduction; and, as we look back to our tented wanderings, they seem as a bright summer's day, whose sun, setting on the horizon of our fate, reflects itself, though with imperfect gleams, within this book, whilst the day is gone for ever!

THE GIPSY GIRL.

Passing, I saw her as she stood beside A lonely stream between two barren wolds; Her loose vest hung in rudely-gathered folds On her swart bosom, which in maiden pride Pillowed a string of pearls; among her hair Twined the light blue bell and the stonecrop gay; And not far thence the small encampment lay, Curling its wreath?d smoke into the air. She seemed a child of some sun-favoured clime; So still, so habited to warmth and rest; And in my wayward musings on past time, When my thought fills with treasured memories, That image nearest borders on the blest Creations of pure art that never dies.

DEAN ALFORD.

TENT LIFE WITH ENGLISH GIPSIES IN NORWAY.

"The best books are records of the writer's own experiences of what he himself has seen or known, or--best of all--has done. The writing then becomes naturally concrete, perspicuous, a mirror of the fact; and whether it be a book for the world and for ages, or for nations and generations, there is this common to them all, that they are genuine records of genuine things, and throw light on the subject."--N. P. WILLIS.

NORWAY--OUR GIPSY TENT--TENT FITTINGS--COOKING APPARATUS--COMMISSARIAT--GIPSIES' TENT--BAGAGE DE LUXE--WEIGHT OF BAGGAGE--TRANSIT--DONKEYS--OUR PARTY--ESMERALDA.

The picturesque and lovely scenes of Norway offered many inducements for our campaign. The peculiar advantages of tent life would enable us to wander in its wildest Dals. Its beautiful fjelds, fjords, and fosses could be seen at our ease. We might bivouac in the silent forest; we could sleep in its lonely glens, and wander in its deepest recesses, independent of the chance accommodation of the "gjoestgiver-gaard," or the more doubtful comfort of the mountain "soeter." The result of a former visit had not been without its practical utility, and the tent carried the day.

In previous travels we had used many kinds of tents, including Mr. Whymper's very useful Alpine Tent. For this campaign we had a new one made, such as gipsies use. All experience inclined us to adopt this form of tent as the most comfortable. It was made by gipsies, whom we had often befriended in our search after gipsy lore,--and who now no longer regarded us with distrust, as belonging to the kairengroes . When it was completed, my people declared it was the best they had ever seen. A stout back pole, with strong pliable raniers or rods, fitted into it, and a cover made of two pairs of light gray blankets, of strong but fine texture, sewn together, with a broad edging of scarlet bocking, gave it an appearance which the gipsies declared to be perfection.

Our provisions were procured at Hudson Brothers, Ludgate Hill, London , and were all we could desire for quality. Our purchase included 28lbs. of Australian meat --which for the first time, we ventured, with some hesitation, to take--two hams, some bacon, a dozen boxes of sardines, 2 cheeses, a number of jars of Liebig's essence of meat, some tins of potted meats, 2 tins of biscuits,--some of which were college biscuits,--rice, oat-meal, pea flour, beans, &c.; which, together with 12lbs. of tea from Messrs. Phillips, King William Street, in small bags of 3lbs. each, were placed in a large stout "pocket" as far as space would allow, and then packed in a wooden case, and forwarded to the care of Messrs. Wilson & Co., Hull, ready for the steamer. The weight of the provisions when sent, was 150lbs. These articles, with 30lbs. of sugar in six small bags of 5lbs. each, which we had before forwarded to Hull, completed our stock of provisions for the expedition.

The gipsies brought their own tent rods; we found blankets for the tent cover. The gipsies' tent cover is formed of two blankets, fastened with pin thorns over their tent frame of raniers or rods. They had for use one of Edgington's waterproofs and two double blankets.

We also took a railway rug ornamented with foxes' heads, which we often used with the aid of our Alpine stocks, as a balk to keep off the wind, and to close in the space between our tents when we required more room or shelter. We had, besides, a very large but exceedingly light waterproof sheeting, purchased from Edmiston, made to loop over our tents, so as to enlarge them considerably and protect us from heavy rain. The blanket covers of our tents were not waterproof; and this waterproof sheeting, which only weighed 4 1/2 lbs., was invaluable. When we were resting during the day, it effectually protected our provisions, baggage, and ourselves from the heavy showers of rain which sometimes occurred during our wanderings.

The weight of baggage is given in the following divisions:--

The tent rods and pole weighed 14 1/2 lbs.; the tent blanket, cover, and partition-curtain, 17 1/2 lbs.; large waterproof siphonia cover, 4 1/2 lbs.; small spade to dig trenches round tent in wet weather, 1 lb. 15 ozs.; total weight, 38 lbs. 7 ozs.

One of Edgington's waterproof rugs, the tent carpet, two rugs, and two air-pillows, weighed, together, 20 lbs.

The method of transit for baggage of all kinds, that impediment to rapid movement, required careful consideration. We had 360 lbs. weight of baggage to carry across the sea, to take with us through the valleys of Norway, to convey over mountains, and rugged paths, across rivers and shaky wooden bridges. The kind of animal suited to our expedition had also to be considered; ponies and mules had their claims. Excellent ponies might be purchased in Norway upon our arrival, but then we had the risk of delay. If we took mules they were oftentimes vicious and troublesome. At last we commissioned a gipsy to purchase three strong donkeys, to be specially selected for the purpose. It is said in one of Dickens's works, that no one ever saw a dead donkey or a dead postboy--and this inspired additional hope that the animals would survive the journey. We had no reason to regret our choice. Donkeys will endure want of food better than even mules or horses; they are patient, quiet, and tractable; they soon take to the camp, and seldom stray far. The weight would be about 120 lbs. each, decreasing as they progressed on their journey. A strong donkey has been known to carry for a short distance, 4 cwt., but this is exceptional; 200 lbs. for a journey on good roads they can manage without difficulty; for rough mountain roads and paths, this load ought to be reduced to less than 100 lbs. Donkeys were much valued in early times; and in New South Wales they were recently more expensive than horses. Fortunately our gipsy was able to procure them at a moderate rate; and in a short time I was the possessor--to use gipsy language--of three "cushty merles" . They were to travel with the gipsies' camp until we were ready to start, and so become used to camp-life. Very good ones they were:

Content with the thistle they tramped o'er the road, And never repined at the weight of the load.

So the party was to be made up to four. The Rye was not to go without a sufficient escort to take care of him. Tall Noah would pitch the tents and pack the animals. Esmeralda, as the forlorn hope, would do all the cooking, and undertake the arrangements of the tent, which our friend had beforetime done with our joint assistance. Zacharia, the "boshomengro" , would again obtain water, and make the fire. They would each have one animal under their charge. With this arrangement we were obliged to content ourselves. Esmeralda, who was nearly sixteen years old, was tall, spare, and active, and wonderfully strong for her age. She had dark hair, and eyes full of fathomless fire. Zacharia had certain nervous misgivings about being chopped up by a bear in his tent some night; tigers and lions were also inquired after; but, all being settled, there was no flinching, and our gipsies were ready on the day named.

GIPSY EQUIPMENT--NORWEGIAN GIPSIES--PRESTEN EILERT SUNDT--THE HULL STEAMER--THE TOURIST'S FRIEND--OUR GIPSY SONG.

There are Norwegian gipsies. Even Norway has been reached by wandering hordes of this singular people. We were desirous of comparing the language of English gipsies with that of the Norwegian Zigeuner; we were anxious to see some of the roving Tater-pak of this Northern land. In our researches into the history, language, origin, and probable fate of this wild, wandering people, who still cling with remarkable tenacity to their ancient modes of life and language, we had met with the interesting works of Presten Eilert Sundt--a gentleman who has given much time and indefatigable energy to a complete investigation of the present state of the Norwegian gipsies, and has formed a vocabulary of the Romany language as spoken by them in Norway.

Presten Sundt's notes will remain a valuable record of the footsteps of this people in the world. His first work, "Beretning om Fante-eller Landstrygerfolket i Norge," was published at Christiania in 1852; it was succeeded by "Anden aars Beretning om Fantefolket," published at Christiania in 1862. To him the Norwegian Government are indebted for the only information which we believe has yet been given relative to the Norwegian gipsies. The extracts from Presten Sundt's works, expressly made for us, will be found in the Appendix to this work.

A steamer was to sail from Hull in June, and we ultimately arranged to take a return ticket from Hull to Norway and back, ourself first-class, and the gipsies second-class: our return tickets cost us ?25, including the carriage of three animals, either donkeys or horses, whichever we might wish to take, going or returning. At one time we thought of going by the special steamer to Throndhjem, intended for the convenience of sportsmen, but as the voyage was longer, and the fare considerably higher, we gave up the idea. Messrs. Wilson were most prompt in giving us every information, and when we had decided to go, they secured us an excellent berth, and received our heavy baggage when forwarded.

We soon received a small publication, by John Bradley, entitled, "Norway, its Fjords, Fjelds, and Fosses, and How to See Them for Fifteen Guineas:" with a tempting view of Norwegian scenery on the cover. Unfortunately we could not travel at so cheap a rate with our party; but we recommend the publication to intending tourists.

A gipsy song was composed by us for our campaign,--a sort of souvenir, to be given here and there,--a memorial of our visit; we had it translated into Norwegian. It was a guitar song, with an engraved border, illustrative of gipsy life. The music was arranged by our friend, of whose regretted absence, we have already spoken. He had taken it from an air, which he once heard played, by an Italian boy, in the streets of London. It had since dwelt on his memory. The following is the music of the air, and the song follows, with a Norwegian translation, which is said, to be exceedingly good.

"The woods are green, the hedges white With leaves, and blossoms fair; There's music in the forest now, And I too must be there."

JEFFREYS.

A FRIEND'S MISGIVING--DARK FOREBODINGS--A SLEEPLESS NIGHT--THE RAILWAY STATION--THE ALBION--A PHILOSOPHER--THE STREET BOY--DISTINGUISHED TRAVELLERS.

We had nearly completed our preparations, and were leaving town, when we dined one evening with a friend whom we had not seen for some time. He seemed interested in our approaching excursion, but his astonishment was great, when our plan was divulged.

"What! going to Norway with gipsies?" said he in amazement, as he poised in his hand, a glass of champagne. "Why I don't believe my friend Tom Taylor, who has taken a great interest in the gipsy language, ever went so far as to camp with them. You'll be robbed, and murdered--not the slightest doubt. Travel with gipsies!" exclaimed our friend, and he seemed to shudder at the thought

We were quite unable to say how much self-sacrifice Mr. Tom Taylor may have made. We had read his interesting collection of Breton Ballads. He writes well on a great variety of subjects, and is an excellent art critic; but we could not give any opinion upon his camp experience. My friend shook his head, "Write to me when you get there,--promise to write me a letter," said he earnestly. "Yes, you will be certainly robbed, and murdered," and he silently emptied his glass.

There was something touching in his manner, as he gulped down the effervescent draught, with a look which showed plainly that he had no hope for our safe return.

In the drawing-room the subject seemed one of interest. We gave our friend a promise to write. As we left the house, his adieux were those of separation, for the last time.

We had received previously full and explicit information from the passenger department as to the trains and expense of transit, and had engaged a horse box to Hull. One of the officials, seemed rather astonished, when he found three donkeys, were to be conveyed in the horse-box, he scarcely seemed able to connect a horse-box, with the proposed freight.

The gipsies were joined by an inquisitive fellow-traveller, in a white hat. Some people trouble themselves about everybody else's business but their own. He cross-examined them, as to who we were, and where we came from. "Gloucestershire," said Noah--"we all came from Gloucestershire this morning." "You must have started very early," said the inquisitive traveller. "Oh, yes," said Noah with emphasis--"very early."

Much curiosity was created when the gipsies came on deck. The steward of the vessel said, they seemed to have lately come from a warm country.

During the previous wet night, they had camped some distance from the starting point, and had ridden the donkeys through the rain to the railway station. Noah and Zacharia had no great-coats, but Esmeralda was dressed in her long Alpine cloak, and treble necklace of blue, and white beads. Her straw hat was surmounted by a small plume of feathers, dyed blue, by one of her brothers. She did not wear earrings, and had no other ornament.

We had left the steamer to obtain some methylated spirit for our Russian lamp, and to call at Messrs. Wilson and Co.'s, when we remembered, that we had forgotten our watch-keys. A watchmaker's shop was soon found. The watchmaker was a merry-looking man. The watch had always been provided with one key to wind it up, and another to regulate the hands. We had always been assured, that two different keys, were required. "Ha! ha!! ha!!!" laughed the watchmaker, who was apparently a German, "I will give you one key which will do the same thing--ha! ha!! ha!!!"

It was a beautifully formed key, nor had we ever met with one like it before.

We were now nearly ready for the voyage; as we passed from the gates of the railway station an interesting-looking boy, pleaded hard to black our boots. It is an honest way of making a livelihood. In this instance we stepped aside--one boot was just finished, when he suddenly bolted. Although he did not wait for his money, he did not forget the paraphernalia of his business. Another boy explained, that he was not allowed to black boots so near the station, and a policeman in the distance had caused his hasty disappearance.

The boy again met us soon after, and completed his work; we were glad to have the chance of paying him.

The evening was damp and gloomy. An old weather-beaten Norwegian pilot wandered about the deck. Men in oilskin coats, smelling strongly of tar and tobacco-quid, hustle and bustle, against everything. Very comfortable accommodation, had been erected specially for the animals near the engines, in the waist of the steamer. Esmeralda was feeding them with hay.

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