Read Ebook: Journal of Residence in the New Hebrides S.W. Pacific Ocean by Bice Charles Brittain A

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A nasty lizard such as I have before mentioned was shortly after discovered in the thatch of my house just over my head, and captured after an exciting hunt. One creeps when these creatures are brought so near one, and is thankful for daily protection from them.

To-day has been the occasion of an important event here, viz: the thatching of a gamal . This, indeed, is one of the greatest events known here, and there has been much feasting and festivity. The men do the thatching, and neighbours and strangers from a distance come to assist. There must have been quite a hundred men at work to-day, and it was the part and duty of the women to prepare food for them, and judging by the quantity spread out to-night they must have been kept pretty busy at work.

The house was a large one, and it took most of the day to finish it. The roof when complete was most neat, and a perfect protection from heat and wet for many years to come. The thatch is made from the frond of the sago palm and very durable. Cocoanut fronds are sometimes used, but they do not make so neat a roof nor nearly so lasting.

These native houses, although seemingly such poor structures, take some time and skill in building, and are very fair habitations when finished. They are rather low according to our ideas of comfort, but the natives grow accustomed to a crouching posture within doors, and they say the low roof does not catch the wind so easily, nor is the interior so cold. This is a consideration for people with no clothing, and I know myself from experience how cool it sometimes is here. Indeed, this very year I have never passed a night without being covered with a blanket, and even then I have not quite kept the cold away. A native, however, generally sleeps near a fire, and the interior of their houses are very snug. After the work was done this evening there was a great brew of kava, a drink made from the root of the kava plant, but here called "Malowo," and highly intoxicating. There is much ceremony in connection with the drinking of this beverage, which as far as I have seen, if taken in fair moderation, produces strong inebriation, but is not an excitant, nor does it leave any ill effects when once the narcotic effects pass off. Any one who drinks is supposed to do so fasting, in order, I believe, that the draught may have the more effect. One or two cups are enough to produce intoxication, but of course men will make beasts of themselves in the drinking of kava, as well as of any other strong drink. Here it is prepared from the green root, and grated up with a rough, round coral stone, then squeezed into cups made of the half of a cocoanut shell, strained and mixed with water, after which it is ready for imbibation. To look at it is like soap suds, and to the taste it is like what I should suppose that compound resembled, with an additional admixture of rhubarb and magnesia, with a suspicion of strong senna or black draught. Indeed I think it is about the nastiest potion conceivable, and no wonder the drinker takes an unconscionably long time in swallowing the compound, and when finished would almost rather he had never drunk it. I was very glad to see most of our own people at school and prayers, but I believe some have reserved the 'nightcap' till nearer bed-time. When the drowsiness is over I believe a craving for food results, and then the appetite is appeased even if it be in the middle of the night. Certainly, however, a man is never quarrelsome over his cups, but a drowsiness and torpor creep over the most quarrelsome and irrepressive after the draught. The mode of preparation similar to that practised here obtains in all the Northern New Hebrides, as far as I know, but at Mota and the Banks' Islands generally, and in Fiji it is prepared by a process of mastication, and is not nearly so intoxicating in its effects. At Santa Cruz and in the Solomon Islands the use of the kava is unknown, but instead they chew the betel nut.

I had the old men for school to-night, and very interesting it was, old blind Sulu was among the number and paid the greatest attention, assenting in a marked fashion when anything especially pleased him. Poor fellow, he finds wonderful comfort in his religion, and is a most regular attendant at all services and at school. He gets about wonderfully in spite of his blindness, and does wonderful things for a man so totally blind. His patience and cheerfulness under his affliction are marvellous, and he seems to live in hopeful anticipation of the time when he shall see his Lord and Master face to face, Whom now he sees with the inward eyes of his spirit. He is the only blind man here, and I have never seen but one dumb man in these islands.

We reached our destination after a somewhat weary walk on account of the dampness of the roads after the heavy rain in the night. I found a nice new school, and the teachers awaiting my arrival. The population is small, but the people are well-intentioned and anxious for instruction as exhibited by their having built the school entirely themselves. The leading spirit there and his wife came to-day and asked for Baptism, and desired that they should at once be put under instruction for that sacred Rite. This was cheering, and I hope the example thus set will be largely followed. Food according to native custom had been prepared, and green cocoanuts, and we spent some considerable time with the kind hearted people. They have only an inferior teacher, but he is very zealous to do his best according to the amount of wisdom and knowledge he possesses. They have some sort of daily service and school, but it must of necessity be very elementary.

It is etiquette here for the host or someone appointed by him to see you off the premises, and this afternoon we were escorted some distance from the village by most of the male population, and when at what was looked upon as a respectable distance they stepped to one side, a sign that that was the last we should have of their society, and calling my name the host said, "Iya, go sage," which is perhaps equal to "There, you go up," to which I was supposed to respond calling his name, "Io, go toga," "All right, you stop." We then started for home. Arriving at Na Ruru the major part of the population were awaiting us, and Anthony the teacher with them, fear has driven him and his little flock to take refuge here, the third exodus they have made from their homes, and it is hoped that at last they will be safe from the ruthless incursions of the heathen bushmen. Poor fellow, he had begun to build a substantial new church, which was left with the other houses in their precipitate flight, but nothing daunted he has begun a third time to collect materials for another building. Had they continued however where they were, I doubt if they would have been molested. The only excuse for so doing would have been that they were friends of the villagers attacked by the bushmen. We sat for some time in conversation with the friendly people until the sinking sun warned us to be up and moving homewards. After prayers and singing, which we always have by an unvariable custom instead of school on Wednesday evenings, I received a request from some heathen strangers, twenty in number, that they might dance before me. I assented, and now at a late hour they are still at it, and going ahead with such vigour that I do not like to stop them. This dance is a piece of policy, for I am supposed to give them a handsome gratuity at the end, and the request to-night has been for tobacco. I am supposed also to be very liberal on these occasions, and certainly they have earned their wages. Their dance is very like that of the Tanrig people, but of course the songs are somewhat different, and to my taste not so pleasing. It is certainly curious that people living really in such close proximity should speak a dialect so utterly different that I can scarcely understand a word they say. I always assent to their dancing for it brings them here in large numbers, and for no ulterior purposes, and I like in every way to cultivate all friendly feeling between ourselves and our neighbours. Their powers of endurance are wonderful, there were many small boys among the dancers to-night, and the hands of my watch pointed to nearly 2 o'clock a.m. before they finished, and previously they must have walked some twelve or fifteen miles over very rugged country. It must be considered too that these dances are performed without any intermission, and carried through with great vigour to the very end. I believe they had contemplated going on till morning, but that would be too terrible. Now as I write this they are gone, and the place is as quiet as if I were alone the sole inhabitant. I am now quite ready for bed and have really been so for hours, but the din and noise would render sleep an impossibility. God grant that in time these heathen songs may be changed for Christian hymns.

How true it is that little things please little minds, and what a boon it is that the adage is so true. To us, whom civilization and the natural fitness of things have raised so far above nature, it is a matter of a striking character to see these heathens on their travels. They are burdened with absolutely nothing except a club or bow and arrows in their hands. Their dress is but a slight remove from the original fig leaf of the garden of Eden, and they carry neither bedding nor food. They sleep anywhere and eat what they can get. Their endurance in the matter of food too is extraordinary, whether they eat or whether they eat not does not seem to affect them, and in this way they beat us all to fits on the march. These Bushmen tell me they prefer making a journey in rain for it is cooler, and the only change of raiment they need at the end is to dry nature's clothing before a fire. They are a very hardy race, I suppose from being inured to hardship all their lives.

I missed poor blind Sulu from school to-day, and on enquiring for him was told that his pet pig, whose tusks are getting long and very sharp, importuned him beyond bearing, and that in kicking out to get rid of him the tusk ran into his foot and almost right through it. Poor old fellow, I am going by and bye to see what I can do to administer comfort to him.

Arthur too is very much out of sorts, and could not put in an appearance at school to-day. For some months he has suffered from lassitude and weakness, and has been troubled with nasty sores. Fortunately I have a bottle of Hop Bitters with me, the effect of which I am going to try with him. Fancy the popularity of this wonderful tonic when it even finds its way to these distant islands! I have known it used with very beneficial results, and I hope Arthur may improve under its influence and strengthening properties.

The initial performance was a song sung by four men to an accompaniment beaten on bamboos, but that was by no means impressive. The females during this performance advanced and squatted around the performers and poor things were almost roasted alive under the blazing rays of the midday sun. When the song was finished the maskers rushed out, 17 in number with very curious and savage-looking head pieces, and petticoats of long sago palm leaves reaching almost to the ground. They presented a very weird and uncanny appearance certainly as they danced forth and back and uttered their gruff "Ugh, ugh, ugh, ugh." I do not wonder at weak minded females and small children being very terrified of them. The head pieces were decided works of art, and very well made. Thirteen were almost entirely of the same make and pattern and are called "Rauwe," three were again somewhat of a different shape and fashion called "Tamate," and one very elongated and strangely devised mask also called a 'Tamate' completed the list. When the dancing was over which was called 'Welu,' the Rauwes rushed flying about all over the place, and the wiser course was to keep out of their way. In former days I believe they carried heavy sticks, or even clubs, and struck at anyone who failed to get out of their way. Boys and females were the chief objects of their attacks, and sometimes considerable injury resulted. Of course if any one retaliated and gave blow for blow, a skrimmage of perhaps serious and general nature resulted, and ended probably in lives being sacrificed.

To-day these rough maskers carried clubs and long handled axes, and nothing was feared from them. The tamates were much more quiet and danced quietly about like so many kiwis , and molested no one. They represent a higher grade in the social scale and their intentions are always pacific. For some days after the ceremony they are allowed to sail about the country and take what they please in the shape of food, &c. if it happens to come in their way, indeed I believe the people put it out for them and render every assistance to send them away full handed. The tamate mask has no eyehole, but the rauwe head piece has every facility for observation to facilitate its hilter skilter rush. The native idea of these things I believe is that if anyone dies who has not paid for these masks, he is haunted by them in the hereafter, at their places of departed spirits, "Banoi." The tamates protect the disembodied spirits and conduct them safely to their final destination in Banoi. Moreover, I believe that those who die without propitiating these tamates and rauwes by gifts of pigs and mats are transformed into flying foxes, and adorn for ever the courts of an ill-fated Banoi. When the 'welu' was over, great cakes of cooked food were disgorged from their covering of leaves and distributed, the men behind a very curious screen called "Bugoro" distributing to men, and the women on one side of the village square distributing to women. The busy and animated scene was often disturbed by one or more of the rauwes rushing wildly about, and the women utterly regardless of food or hospitality, tore hilter skilter in screams of terror to some place of temporary security. It was now getting late, and as we had a journey before us and the performance was virtually over, except the kava drinking, we wished our friend good-bye and started for home, getting here in time for dinner, both by the time of day and by the condition of an appetite which had not been appeased since morning. On the whole I do not think the ceremony was at all worth the labour it cost to witness, and having seen it once, one would scarcely care to trouble about it a second time. However, it has its due effect upon the natives of both sexes, and it is looked upon by many as of paramount importance as regards both the present time and the future. To the newly initiated it gives certain social rights and privileges, but the strict observance with many is a thing of the past. It has only to do with the males, females may enjoy no special benefit from the practice except to assist as ornamental observers, and to bring beast burdens of food for distribution. What becomes of their poor souls hereafter is a matter for no anxiety or consideration, indeed I suppose the doubt is as to their possessing such things as souls at all, so that their final destination can only be a matter of supreme indifference and of the most insignificant importance. A hazy indefinite belief therefore these people have in some hereafter, and they endeavour to make some provision for it while they can, but they have no distinct form of religion, nor any images to which they offer worship. They have some kind of propitiatory sacrifice however of food and shell money, and whatever prayer they have is made to the spirits of their ancestors. Almost invariably a dying man calls to his father, and we have frequently noticed that when a sick person arrives at this stage of illness, his case is very bad indeed, if not hopeless. Yesterday as we were waiting at the entrance to the village, the people called my attention to a peculiar kind of red grass which had been chewed up, and the refuse strewn about all over the path, and they told me that this was done by the master of ceremonies to make the visitors take delight and interest in the festivities, and to raise the wish in the minds of the uninitiated to swell the ranks of those who had already taken the initiatory steps in social rank. Like all natives of course these people are utterly superstitious, and any little thing of a slightly extraordinary nature serves to determine or deter their mode of action. There is a certain class of persons among them who read these signs and comment upon them, just as the ancient oracles, and these persons are consulted in every matter of public or private interest. No one takes a journey or engages in any matter without recourse to this oracle, but as of old in case of failure, the matter is explained ambiguously. Superstition indeed creeps into almost every concern of daily life, and its effect upon one would be very wearying and irritating, except of course that superior mindedness ought to condescend and bear with such human frailties when one considers the education under which these poor folks have been brought up from generation to generation. Much, I think, of this weak mindedness is passing away under Christian regime, and more and more I suppose will it disappear as the day breaks and the shadows flee away.

While we were sitting there at Ruosi one of the men told me a curious custom they have here. I knew him of old to be an habitual and heavy kava drinker, now he told me he never drank it and had not for months. It appears that persons who enjoy a certain rank can deny the use of this beverage to any one they like, and they place a sort of 'tabu' over the kava bowl, and this tabu is not taken off again until a pig or its equivalent is paid. A short time ago kava drinking became so general in the school as to impede the working of it, for teachers and scholars drank alike. The boys and young men therefore met together and laid mutual tabus upon each other, and for some time past very little kava has been drunk by those attending, and no one of those on whom the tabu was laid has chosen yet to take it off.

This same man told me another curious custom they have with respect to revenge. If a man has a grudge against another and he wishes to kill him, or if he wishes to kill someone as a set off against someone belonging to him having been killed, he refuses to wash his hands until such time as they can be washed with blood. He told me of three brothers, Bushmen, who swore to kill a man apiece, the two younger brothers have already performed their part of the contract, but the dirt is still thick on the hands of the eldest, and he still means murder when he can get the convenient opportunity. It does not matter much, I believe, who the victim is as long as he has not many friends to retaliate. Poor weak inoffensive mortals in this way often lose their lives, innocent sacrifices to heathen brutalism and bloodthirstiness. We came home in the cool of the most glorious evening, a strange contrast in its peace and loveliness to the rage and horror of savage brutalism. A quiet evening service and the song of melody seemed more in tune with the scene without, and I trust that the Peace of God which passeth all understanding may ever keep our hearts and minds in the knowledge and love of God and of His Son Jesus Christ.

I gave notice last Sunday of Holy Communion to-morrow, and this evening I held a Communicants' class at which were present the two Arthurs and Patrick. Anthony and Samuel are too far away to be able to attend. I cannot but esteem it a high privilege and blessing to be enabled to receive and dispense the Bread of Life here in this once heathen village, and I pray that we may be strengthened and refreshed for our work, and show forth God's praise not only with our lips but in our lives, and by giving up ourselves more fully to His service. May the time too be hastened when some of these good people may be permitted to partake of the visible tokens of redeeming love.

It is now late, and except for the singing of crickets, perfectly still, fit prelude, I trust, to a peaceful Sabbath.

After the Celebration we had school. We assembled first in the schoolhouse, sang a hymn and I said a Prayer, then divided into classes, I myself taking all the old men into the Church, and trying to explain the sense of the collect to them. I told them how God had prepared for them that love Him such good things as pass man's understanding, and I asked them how we knew that. I told them that God had revealed these things to us by His Son Jesus Christ, and He had left His testimony with us in His Gospel, and the books which persons chosen by Him had written under the influence and direction of His Holy Spirit. Their religion was a matter of mere hearsay and conjecture, and had been handed on from mouth to mouth, and had grown as it came down after the manner of mere verbal testimony. There could be no doubt with us because we have the living testimony of Christ's own words which never pass away. Their religion came from nowhere and no one knew of its beginning; of ours at all events we were sure. I told them too that in England and other countries, where arts and sciences were known and practised far beyond anything they could conceive of, there were things so marvellous that their understanding could not grasp even the faintest idea of them, and how much more marvellous, wonderful, and glorious must the things be which God has prepared for such as love Him. Why even here below we see great and wonderful and mysterious things which pass the understanding of the world's wisest minds, and how much more wonderful still must the things be which are to be revealed hereafter, when the eye shall be purified to see, the ear to hear, and the senses to discern the beauty and true glory of them. And what does God, who thus prepares these blessed things for us, require of us? Why to love Him above all things. Each one of us had some darling idol, to which we offered the devotion of our hearts, but it must be torn down and removed if it comes before our love to God. And the end of this love was God Himself, and to dwell with Him for ever as inheritors of His gracious promises which exceed all that we can desire. The old fellows were very attentive, and interspersed running remarks, and when I had done I asked them to kneel down, and I said the Collect as a Prayer for them. Meanwhile the other teachers had school with their scholars in the schoolhouse. The first class of boys and girls had to say their Collect by heart, and after that they were questioned on its meaning. School was closed with Prayer and a Hymn, and then I was ready for breakfast, very dry, uncooked rice with sugar and cocoanut cream, and a cup of delicious Norfolk Island coffee. Morning Prayer followed in due course before the day got too hot, and after this everyone was busy with their Sunday meal for the afternoon. The day was as hot as the night was cold, but it was most glorious, and all nature seemed to be keeping its Sabbath. The evening was perfectly serene and peaceful, a fit termination to a quiet, restful day.

In the evening I had the teachers, and after that service at which I preached from the gospel of the day, "Except your righteousness exceed the righteousness of the Scribes and Pharisees." They were very attentive during my remarks, so I trust I was understood. I told them God did not want us merely to come to school and church but He wanted the devotion of the heart, it was not outward righteousness He wished for, but inward truth and honesty and straightness. The Pharisees were very good Churchgoers, but their heart was not right with God, &c., &c.

After Service we had singing which they always enjoy, and even now I hear their voices in the School house singing "There's a friend for little children." I had intended to have made an excursion to the neighbouring villages to-day but I could not manage the time, the day having gone so rapidly. Now it is very cool and betokens another cold night but Oh! how calm and peaceful!

I brought a box of refuse toys from Norfolk Island to which our boys and girls there have grown superior, and the exhibition and distribution of them created quite a furore. One would never suppose in these days of superior enlightenment that any people could be found simple enough to go into ecstacies over a halfpenny toy, but these women and children have gone off perfectly enraptured with their new possessions, and I dare say they will treasure them up for many a day and find pleasure in the contemplation and exhibition of them. One poor young mother has just brought in great distress her infant child which she says is suffering from a pain in its side, and the only remedy I can conceive of is a dose of castor oil. The father comes around to my side of the table, and whispers that it has not been 'washed' yet, meaning that it has not been Baptized, and that it has no name. While writing this Samuel appeared with another friend from Tasmouri, and I went with them to the beach where all the population had previously gone. Our path lay through the carefully and skilfully irrigated taro fields, and of course it was very bad in some places. Crossing one place I made a false step and went up to my knees, it was a fitting judgment on my pride for I refused the assistance of a stalwart follower's back, which had borne me dry and safely over two such places before. I presented a strangely harlequin appearance with white flannel trowsers above the knee, and black mud gaiters below. However appearances are easily pardoned here, and the only grief was at my own discomfort. The people of course all said it was because the roads were so bad, but that was too palpable a truism, and was no relief to my feelings. Bootless and trowserless, these paddy paths make no difference to them, and mud has not the same appearance on a black skin. However we went to the sea-shore and saw the sport which was not much. One very large fish was caught with a hook and line, and the women had great horse-loads of shell fish, but generally the bowmen came off badly. The tide was out to the utmost limit of the reef, and quite half-a-mile from the shore the rocks were entirely exposed. Of course there was some very good reason for the failure and ill luck, and I was somewhat surprised to hear the wind blamed. It so happened that what of that element there was, was off shore, but if it had been only blowing in shore it would have driven in the fish. However there was disappointment depicted on every countenance, and there was some trifling relief to the feelings in putting the blame on the wind. Probably if the wind is all right to-morrow something else will be wrong, and so on. What a wonderful place in the English language those two little words 'if' and 'but' have, and how they qualify almost every action of mankind, and how usually are they made use of in self-extenuation. How scarcely possible is it to describe a single character without the use of one or other of them! He would be a very nice fellow 'if.' She would be an estimable woman 'but.' On our homeward road I marched boldly through mud and water taking pride I suppose in revenging myself, and showing my unmentionables that now the pink of their whiteness was off, they might just as well be a little more dirty. However, a refreshing bath was some return for my chagrin and discomfort, and I hastened home for a clean change. The cooks brought me two deliciously cooked fish for dinner, and were very disappointed when I sent them back untasted. I am never very partial to fish, and in these latitudes my digestive organs rebel even against the smell of them. However, the boys very soon picked the bones, and perhaps were not sorry that I had not partaken. There is great feasting going on to-night with both sexes, the men with their fish supper and the women with shell-fish.

Everywhere to-day we saw the bush lit up with the bright red "Rarava," a gorgeous tree, which flowers at this time of the year, and gives its name to the winter season. The other season is called "Magoto" from a reed of that name which shoots in spring, and these are the only native seasons of the year. There does not seem to be however any very marked distinction or peculiar line of demarcation between summer and winter as regards the heat and cold, but in fact it does seem to be warmer in the "Magoto" and cooler in the "Rarava." To an Englishman however it is always hot, and he does not detect any material difference. One shivers now to think of ice and snow and of such concomitants of the winter season, for here of course they are absolutely unknown.

I quite expect that some fine morning, before I am out of bed perhaps, my escort will be awaiting me outside my door, and anxiously and impatiently desiring to start at once. Natives make no preparation for a journey, they have no impedimenta of travel, and lightly clad, and lightly weighted, they are ready at any moment to start, and a long or short stay is all the same to them. They want no canteens or bedding or change of clothing, and they can lay their heads down in any spot, and rest and refresh themselves, and be ready for any emergency. They do not even need as much as a tooth brush and pair of slippers for their excursions, and marvel at our wanting so much to them unnecessary luggage. I believe I should make many more journeys, if I could accomplish them with so little inconvenience and discomfort.

Samuel went back this morning, and I am to go to Tasmouri on Friday for a week. He gives a very good account of his work there and I am anxious to see and judge for myself. The whole Community there are Baptized, and most exemplary Christians they are. They are very nice lively good-natured people too, but are not very numerous. Indeed these Maewo villages have dwindled down to very few inhabitants, from one cause and another, and a large measure of the decrease is owing to the wide spread practice of infanticide. Now in this district that practice, thank God, is checked and the population is again on the increase. Moses who was here with Samuel to-day asked me to Baptize while at Tasmouri his fourth child, three boys of his are already Baptized, and such mothers as his wife are a blessing to the race. Here two mothers have three children apiece, and several have two. I wish however the mothers would bring up their children a little better, they are the perfect slaves of their offspring, and give into them in everything. Talk about spoilt children, I have to roar every day of my life to some little urchin, screaming his lungs out because his mother does not do at once what he wants. The mother beats at one moment and coaxes at another, and the child grows up anyhow, a burden to himself and a nuisance to his neighbours. I want a good superior minded and well educated mother here to give some practical advice. Arthur's wife is but a child herself, and as devoid of gumption as the rest of them. Poor people, they do not know what trouble and misery they entail upon themselves and their children from a want of a little firmness, and well timed correction.

It has been a most glorious day, and this morning I accepted an invitation from the boys to go to 'Kerepei.' The tide was very low and many of the people had preceded us, and were busy searching the reef and rocks for the much prized products of the sea shore. The little fellows got me most deliciously sweet green cocoanuts, and while I was bathing caught me a nice lot of prawns for my tea. Days spent in this way are very pleasant, for we get to know each other all the better, and I can exercise a continual supervision over their actions. I generally carry a paper or portable volume with me, and to-day the Church Times was my companion. The evening was most glorious and peaceful, but when the sun went down peculiarly cold. Now as I write I have a blazing fire in my house, and I feel the comfort of it. The poor ill clad people are shivering all around, and are off to their several domiciles to try and get some heat. The attendance at school to-night was worse than I have known it yet, and the cold was said to be the reason of it.

William, one of the men, lit a fire and soon produced some fine large bread-fruit which were placed on the embers, and deftly turned over and over so as to be properly cooked all round. The result was that in about a quarter of an hour I was engaged upon a smoking hot loaf of bread, which eaten with scraped cocoa-nut is very nice indeed. Breadfruit is too much like boiled dough to be really very nice, but to me it is very palatable food. The black outside coating peels off very readily when well cooked, and leaves a round puddingy sort of compound to be eaten. Inside are seeds somewhat bigger than a marble, not unlike filberts, and these are generally eaten with the breadfruit, the hard outside husk easily peeling off, and leaving a large bean like kernel. "Duwu" prepared his in quite a new way to me. Having pealed off the outside crust caused by the cooking, he wrapped the whole fruit up in the long dracaena leaves, and tied up the neck very carefully. He then took a small bamboo, and beat the breadfruit into a soft pulp, giving it a few final bangs on the ground, the leaves were opened, and the pudding turned out on leaves resembling very much a squash, and then cut up like a vegetable marrow into slices and eaten with scraped cocoanut. This I think was nicer than the bare breadfruit. We were a little party of twelve of both sexes, and all shared alike, men and women eating together in the most friendly manner, and not only so but the men did the cooking and helped the women in the nicest way. I could not help thinking what a contrast it was to years gone by. There we were sitting every man under his own vine and under his own fig, with no apparent fear or apprehension of evil, and the most perfect harmony of the two sexes existing among us. Here you scarcely ever now see the husband without the wife, and where you see the wife you may know the husband is not far off. Amina and Eliza kindly got me some land crabs which I enjoyed for tea. These and prawns are readily obtainable, and make a nice occasional change.

To-morrow there is another house to be thatched, and those who are not crazed about fishing are off getting food. From the commencement to the finish, house building here is a matter of great importance. There are four kinds of houses, of which the 'gamal' is the chief. This is the men's club, and the young men's sleeping quarters. Within its walls the women may not enter, and there is a certain circumscribed boundary into which they may not trespass. All food cooked in the 'gamal' is partaken of by the men only, and a woman may not eat of it under any consideration. 'Kava' is prepared and drunk there also, and of this a woman may not drink. Within the gamal are various ovens according to the several degrees of rank, and those of the same grade eat out of one oven, and the rules of precedence are strictly adhered to. Fire used within the gamal may not be used in a private house. After a certain age all boys are supposed to live in the gamal, and that becomes their proper quarters until they marry and build houses of their own. Any man may sleep in the gamal and eat food there.

The next house in importance is the "ima" or married man's residence. Within this house the cooking of the food for the family is done, and the married couples live. This house is known from the rest, by having the front and back end worked with cane, and more pains are expended on the building of it. The third kind of house is the "vale," within which there is no fire place for cooking, and this is used mostly as the apartments of the young females before marriage, and for stowing any treasures which may be inconvenient in the "ima." The front and end of the 'vale' are made only of bamboos. A fourth kind of house is the "ima somu" . In this house is kept the treasures of the village, and it is always known by a peculiarly neat front of reeds, and by a very curious sort of pallisade of reeds placed in a sort of semicircle around the front door. Within this house a fire is kept continually burning night and day, and the reason for this is that the most prized and valuable article of barter here is the smoked mat, and the blacker it can be smoked the more does it increase in value. As may be supposed, within these houses a most weird and odd sight presents itself. The gross darkness being only relieved by the glowing embers of the undying fire, the fresh black mats look like so many great flying foxes suspended over it.

The importance of the several houses is therefore in this order, the "gamal," "ima," "vale," and "ima somu." When a building is finished there is always a great ceremony ranging in importance according to the description of the house. For the gamal the 'house warming' is a matter of much ceremonial called "nasu," and a man is supposed to "nasu gamal" with a pig at least. Any live stock may be slaughtered in "nasu ima," and fowls, or if possible fish, are mostly in requisition. Plain food only is required for the two latter, but all the same there must be some house warming, or the building would not be properly finished. The house I occupy is an "ima," and being a proprietor of many pigs, I am going to add to the dignity and full completion of my residence, by slaughtering two innocent animals next Thursday and the school will get a general holiday and a pleasant evening. I do this partly because I want to give the boys some slight return for the pains they have been at in building the house, to get a piece of pork myself, and to give a holiday in honour of my return among them. They say they must dig an oven within the 'ima' to make the thing complete, but to this I object. To-morrow, all being well, I go to Tasmouri.

The native guide swung along at a rapid pace, and we were not long in reaching "Uta," where we rested for some time in the neat little school, and Takele regaled us with green cocoanuts, which were very acceptable. Poor Takele, who has only one enlightened friend to help him, finds a difficulty in getting his scholars together on a week day, and no wonder, as I suppose he knows very little more than they do themselves, and it is irksome to old people to spell over their A.B.C. day after day, and get no oral instruction. It is far more in consonance with their feelings and habits to go out for the day, either to the seashore or to their gardens, than to be trammelled with the cares and labour of school. On Sundays he says they turn up in large numbers, and generally some one goes to them from Tanoriki. I promised him a visit for Sunday week, all being well, and I shall try to keep my promise, for he deserves all the help we can extend to him. He has never been away, is a man now of middle age, and entirely self-taught. He is a most excellent, conscientious man, and tries to do all he can for his people, according to his limited amount of knowledge.

He built the school himself and keeps it in most extraordinary order. In many cases he has acted as a deterrent on his countrymen, when they have proposed some heathen act which he has not thought to be within the bounds of strict rectitude, and I believe he tries to lead a good life as far as he knows. As far as morality goes, I do not think anyone would venture to bring an accusation against him. I have always intended to Baptize him, and perhaps this year I may put my intentions into effect. Leaving "Uta" we still marched on in single file, till we reached the brow of the cliff down which, of necessity, we had to descend, Tasmouri being on the other side of the island to windward. A striking and broad prospect greeted us from the hill top, and we saw besides Meralava and the wide expanse of ocean before us, the grand fertile plain belonging to the Tasmouri district, and the church and school visible in the far distance. At the foot of the steep cliff our way lay through the beautifully irrigated taro beds, and of course I had to pick my way to prevent being buried in mud. Leaving the gardens, we had a grand stretch of level country before us, and before long we came upon a merry party of Tasmouri people awaiting our arrival, some distance from their village. Being tired and hungry I pushed on ahead with some of the boys, and enjoyed a refreshing bathe and change of garments. Then came what I suppose I must dignify by the name of dinner, mostly native food, but eaten with the best sauce was as good as the best Lord Mayor's feast, and I dare say as digestible. The Bishop's kind present was most useful, and the canteen contained every article requisite for out of the way travellers. After the meal the people came home, and before long we had Evensong. I was quite surprised at the heartiness of the responses, the fluency of the reading, and the general brightness of the singing and service.

The women sang out lustily with a good courage, and although a trifle slow the result was pleasing on the whole. With a little teaching the singing and service will be very nice. I find I have Baptized forty-six people here, two of whom have died, two have gone away in a labour vessel, and forty-two still remain. They are a very nice, genuine, exemplary community, and Samuel has kept them well together. They seem to me beyond the Tanrigese in point of mental ability, and readily take in fresh ideas. One or two of the young men are very superior fellows. This evening I felt the warmth of this place, by comparison with Tanrig, and for the first time for the year I have slept without any kind of covering. The reed bed I found somewhat hard, but one cannot expect everything, and is content with such things as one has. The condition of the people morally, socially and spiritually, simply reconcile one to any amount of bodily inconvenience. I can thank God and take courage.

In the evening we had Prayers in the church and a nice hearty Service. Poor "Samuel" the head teacher is sick and has not been able to be with us to-day. I gave a short address at Evensong explanatory mostly of to-morrow's programme. It is very warm here and one's thoughts either cease to flow or one's hand to write, anyhow I find a difficulty in inducing energy to write or my brain to cogitate.

Except for the perpetual boom and surge of the restless ocean all is still and peaceful here at present.

On Saturdays following the general and long prevailing custom of the Mission we have a whole holiday, and consequently this morning we had only the shortened form of Mattins such as we use here. Breakfast followed consisting of yam scraped and cooked in leaves, and the particular kind presented for my discussion this morning is called "laqaa." The natives are great cooks and have a very long list of various dishes on their menu.

There are three principal modes of cooking food, however, such as yams and taro, Roasted on the embers and the outside skin carefully scraped off as it gets hardened, this is called "tutunu," scraped on the rough edge of the tree fern, then wrapped in leaves like a large pudding and cooked in the hot stones, this is termed "loko," roasted on the fire until cooked, then beaten on a large wooden dish until as thin about as biscuit pastry, and cocoanut cream poured over, this is named "lutu." The first two are the most common preparations, and the first perhaps most generally in use.

The different kinds of "loko and lutu" are wonderful, and it would puzzle any one but a skilled native cook, to make any distinct varieties of dishes out of such unpromising materials.

Both sexes are good cooks, and no wonder, as from the time they are able properly to run about, until the infirmities of old age creep on they are accustomed to shift for themselves. An English boy would fare very badly if he had to cook his own dinner, and provide for his own wants as early as some of these native children. But education and habit are everything, the latter of course is second nature.

At "Uta riki," where I formerly remember a good population, one man and a small child are the only surviving remnant. The rest are all scattered or dead. We asked him to come to Tasmouri and live there, but he would not consent on the spur of the moment. His son and relations left are mostly there. In matter of wives he has been a regular Blue Beard, and the last of a long list has just died, and left him a widower.

We arrived in due course at Tasmouri, and after dinner all together, which the women had provided in our absence, we had Evensong, a very nice service with a Sermon from me. The women proposed singing afterwards, and this went on till late. At the Evening Service I Baptized the infant daughter of Moses, naming her Anika. Moses, wife, and four children are now a Christian family. His care of, and love for, his children gave me good food for my discourse afterwards, as did the case of 'Dimeli' and the remnant of his people migrating from the place where many had died, to a place where all were going to keep well and live, with the result that all have died with the exception of himself. There was no hope of life apart from God.

It was so intolerably hot in the village, I proposed that we should go to Roonawo, as I was going to Tasmate to sleep and that was about a half-way house. All the population followed me, and there we cooked our dinner and rested. After the meal we had a short service there on the beach which was very quiet and solemn, and then with most of the men I turned my steps towards Tasmate, Samuel and a few others, with the women going back to Tasmouri. There was a great shaking of hands, some profusion of tears among the women, and a great deal of Christian harmony between us all.

Arriving at Tasmate we found another dinner awaiting us, and a hearty welcome. We had Prayers after dinner with a sermon from myself, in which I contrasted the present visit with those they must remember to have known in heathen days. Then the hands were full, but the heart was empty, now the heart was full of love and the hands carried no bow and arrows. We had great Hymn singing afterwards, and the men sat and talked outside about the present and the past. There are a few hearts here I can see being prepared for the good seed which may God sow in His good time, quickly if it may be, and water the plant of grace with the dew of His Holy Spirit.

We were rather late before we thought of retiring, and I was not sorry at length when it was proposed, for without chair or seat, except a native tree, there was no great pleasure in sitting.

This evening there is a great dance, a vast crowd of people has already congregated, and it is to go on till morning light. It is done as a special compliment to myself, and I do not like to stop them. The patient endurance of some of the dancers is wonderful. From the start to the finish, say from 8 p.m. to 4 a.m., they never leave the ranks of the dance but keep at it all the time, singing, clapping the hands and dancing. There is no rest for a good supper at midnight, but the dance is carried right through to the bitter end. I am going to attempt sleep, but I fear the noise will prove too much for me. They have certainly a most beautiful night for their dance, but I should be sorry to be one of the performers. The songs are certainly very pretty, and they show wonderful power of memory to keep up the succession all through the night, without a book of words or musical score.

I can imagine too, as the enthusiasm of the dance increases, that there must be a sort of fascination about the performance.

In Savo and some of the Solomon Islands, these birds are tamed and fenced in, to lay their eggs in the hot sand, but here they are wild and rare. Their eggs which are very numerous are esteemed a great delicacy. This poor bird in question tried very hard to get away by flight, but getting entangled in the thick bush, was shot by a cruel arrow. The capture was the food for conversation throughout the day, and I listened to the relation and re-relation of the narrative of it times without number, with all the little details with which natives are wont to embellish and amplify their narration of the smallest fact. It is perfectly wonderful how the smallest matter affords pasture for native conversation, and what a wonderful faculty they have of making multum out of parvum. In powers of conversation and flow of language, I think natives are far before our European working classes. A native never seems at a loss for something to say, and certainly never fails to express himself from lack of words.

I have frequently heard an European confess that he had a great deal to say, but he could not express himself for want of words. The fluency of speech, and powers of conversation are not confined here to the weaker sex, and I think the men have quite as long tongues as the women, although I do not think they chatter so much or make such a clatter. Some of the men are great wits, and make fun for the multitude, but I do not think this applies to the women. The Maewo folks are great "laughers," and go off into fits of cacchination at the smallest joke. They are a most simple, good-natured race certainly, and it is hard to conceive of their being such depraved savages, so gentle are they in their ways.

After school with the teachers in the evening, during which we discussed our Sunday programme, we had Evensong, and afterwards a long singing practice. Miss Mount's generous gift is a most welcome addition to our singing, and Arthur Huqe begins to play the harmonium very nicely at the services. Our singing is very fair on the whole, but there is room for improvement, and we have the ability if I could get the girls to use their very nice voices. In the old familiar hymns and chants they sing out lustily, but when we attempt anything new, they shut up altogether, without making a trial to join in.

Being very hot this morning, and there being a prospect of the repetition of the Egyptian plague of flies, who always add to the discomfort of a congregation, we had school very early. Our numbers were slightly augmented by outsiders, but not quite to my satisfaction. After a hasty breakfast I started for Uta. This is a good long distance from here, and I was in a state of dripping perspiration when I arrived there. I found everyone keeping a Sabbath, but very few appreciating the idea of a Christian Sunday.

However, I had quite a large congregation in the neat little school but the ladies preponderated in point of numbers. We had quite a nice hearty little service, and they listened patiently to an address from myself. I wish from my heart I had a good teacher to place here, for I know he would be the means of doing much good work to God's glory. The present teacher is a very good, conscientious fellow, but his own knowledge is not much above that of his own countrymen, and they grow weary of hearing continually the same thing. I was quite pleased with my visit, and amply rewarded for any discomfort I experienced in the journey. I do not expect that any immediate result will issue from such spasmodic efforts, but there is no knowing the power of grace, and God's ways are not as our ways. Often it is that the last becomes first, and the first last. At all events I keep the door open, and I hope before long someone else may be raised up to settle among them as a permanent teacher. After resting awhile I took my homeward journey, escorted according to custom by the denizens of the village beyond their own boundary. I returned by way of "Na Ruru," where "Anthony" one of our Norfolk Island trained boys has a school. He seems to be doing fairly well there, and has a nice school. After sitting with him for some time, the shades of evening began to close in, and I to feel somewhat famished, having had but little since morning. Bidding him goodbye I started for Tanrig, where I arrived in due course. After dinner I baptized three children, Maida, Victoria and Matthew respectively. The Font was very prettily arranged and decorated by Arthur Huqe, and the service generally, very nice. Later on we had Evensong, quite a refreshing and stirring service, at which I preached, and never before do I remember to have secured more attention. These children I Baptized this evening make up the number of Christians here to 100, under God, the fruits of my own, and my teacher's work, and I feel that by the orderly and consistent lives of most of them, I can thank God and take courage.

I took as the basis of my remarks, our Lord's last command to His Disciples, and I urged those who had already been admitted into the fellowship of Christ's religion, to eschew all those things which were contrary to their profession, and to follow all such things as were agreeable to the same, and those still without the pale to lose no time in applying for that rite, the absence of which our Lord declared must be condemnation. Those words have a strong sound here for Missionary and heathen--"He that believeth and is Baptized shall be saved, but he that believeth not shall be dammed." One realizes here their full weight, and solemnity, and power. Quite three parts of the congregation have dropped in to wish me good night, and by the hushed stillness over the place I can tell that God's Word has not fallen to the ground. God grant that it may minister grace to hearer and preacher.

To-day, according to custom, we kept the Christening Feast of the children who were Baptized last night. The parents of the children gave a most beautiful pig, and the women attended to the cooking, the men dispersing in many directions each in quest of his own business or pleasure. I went with a party to Ruosi where we bathed, and got back in time for the opening of the ovens, and the division of the feast. I said grace and then each one partook of his or her share of the plentiful repast, all eating together in the most harmonious fashion, and not as in old days the sexes keeping religiously apart. This middle wall of separation has been almost entirely broken down, and family life and sociability have taken the place of the old seclusion and division. It was a most glorious night but the people were too tired to dance, and we all retired early to our houses. I kept busy till very late writing up arrears of correspondence and reading, and was the last in the village out of bed.

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