Read Ebook: A Guide to Cromer and Its Neighbourhood by Anonymous

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The drives about Cromer are far more agreeable than persons have generally been led to suppose. The appearance of the country is picturesque and diversified; the roads themselves are good, and the sea, which is never long concealed from the view, forms at all times a beautiful object, sometimes appearing in wide expanse before us, sometimes seen only through an opening in the woods or over a rich valley, and at others breaking suddenly upon the eye, yet ever harmonizing most delightfully with the general features of the landscape. We do not usually associate the idea of rich foliage with the sea, but in this respect Cromer has a great advantage over most places on the coast, certainly over those on the eastern and northern. The soil, indeed, seems well suited to the growth of trees, many of which attain a very considerable size, and may vie in luxuriance of foliage as in height with those of more inland situations. The oak, Spanish chestnut, and beech, in particular flourish here, and by their beauty afford a constant theme of admiration.

There is no drive, however, prettier than that to the village and hall of Felbrigg, the seat and property of William Howe Windham, Esq.

Felbrigg is three miles distant from Cromer, and is delightfully situated in the bosom of extensive and venerable woods. Almost as soon as you have entered the park, the tower of the church is seen on the left, rising in a most picturesque manner above the lofty trees which encircle it, and as the hall is approached, the drive continues between trees of the most striking beauty; indeed, the beech-trees are esteemed as some of the most remarkable in the kingdom, and are of an extraordinary size and circumference. The hall is a large and handsome mansion, built in the Elizabethan style, on a commanding eminence, and stands in a park comprising about two hundred acres of land. Considerable additions have been made to it at different periods, the greater part of which are in a style corresponding with the ancient south front. It contains many of the works of the most eminent painters, particularly of Rembrandt, Bergham, and Vandersvelt. Among the best paintings may be enumerated, a Usurer, and the Portrait of an Old Woman, by Rembrandt, Cows Stalled, by Sagtleven, Scheveling Market, and a small Landscape, by Paul Brill. The library comprises a large collection of valuable books and prints.

The stables, built in the same style as the Hall, were erected by the late Admiral Windham in 1825.

On the south side of the altar is a beautiful monument, with a fine bust by Nollekins, of the late Right Honourable William Windham, whose lamented death was caused by an injury he received in his endeavours to save the library of his friend Mr. F. North, when his house in Berkeley-square was on fire. An operation had been recommended, and to this he submitted; but, as it proved, without success. This accomplished and amiable man died in the year 1810. Leaving no issue, his estates descended to his half-brother, the late Admiral Lukin, who assumed the name of Windham.

The church at Felbrigg, like most others in this neighbourhood, is shorn of some of its honours. There is no vestry, although the ruins of one remain, and the entrance through the north porch is closed up, and the porch itself serves as a shelter to the sheep, which are turned into the churchyard. We regret the circumstance, as it appears to us a desecration of a building in which God has allowed His name to be put; and when we look "on this picture and on that,"--the handsome mansion with all its comforts, and the house of God, as also the last resting-place of the former owners of that mansion--we would not, where there is so much to admire and so little to lament, have a blade of grass grow irregularly on the one nor a stone left unevenly on the other.

The manor of Felbrigg was purchased by Lord Scales, of the executors of Sir Simon Felbrigg. He afterwards sold it to John Windham, Esq., when a curious circumstance took place, which does not speak well for the gallantry of the times, or at least for that of the party most concerned in it. Mr. Windham being absent, Sir John Felbrigg, who had set up an hereditary claim to the estate, entered the Hall, from which he forcibly dragged out Mrs. Windham, himself taking possession of the mansion. However, he subsequently relinquished his claim for the payment of two hundred marks.

The park, from the unevenness of the ground, rising and falling gently into hills and vales, the richness of the woods, and the manner in which it has been laid out, is extremely beautiful. The drive lies exactly through it, passing close by the house. There is also another way of approaching it, which is through the village and the new lodge-gate at the east; and this also is very beautiful.

On leaving the park, two roads present themselves, one on the right hand, which leads through a very shady lane, the extremity of which is called the Lion's Mouth, into the Holt-road, by which you may return to Cromer direct; or if the desire be to lengthen the drive, the road may be taken across the heath, to Sherringham, Beeston, or Runton, where some of the most delightful prospects that wild scenery can afford will be successively presented to the eye. The descent to each of the former villages is most striking and romantic; and but one regret will arise, namely, that the roads are not well calculated for a carriage, being exceedingly sandy, and the ruts very deep. There is not, however, the slightest fear for those on horseback, nor indeed for those in a carriage, if attended by any one accustomed to the road, and certainly no one should leave Cromer in ignorance of the beauties which here offer themselves.

Pic-nic parties are frequently formed to a valley on the right of the road, over the heath, which can be approached only on foot, or on horseback. A spot is also shown on the top of the heath, which by some is stated to have been a Roman encampment, but it is much more probable the site of an ancient beacon.

If on leaving the park-gate the road in front be taken, the church of Aylmerton will be passed, when turning immediately to the right, it will lead to the Holt-road, only a little higher than the entrance from the Lion's Mouth. The drive will consist in that case, of about six miles,--if the road across the hills be taken, of seven.

EXCURSION TO MUNDESLEY, THROUGH OVERSTRAND, SYDERSTRAND, TO TRIMMINGHAM, RETURNING BY SOUTHREPPS.

The drive from Cromer to Mundesley presents some of the finest sea-views imaginable. The road runs almost entirely along the coast, taking in its course the villages of Overstrand, Syderstrand, and Trimmingham.

About two miles E. by S. of Cromer, is the small parish of Overstrand, which extends two miles along the sea-cliffs, and is bounded inland by a lofty range of hills. On the beach is a hamlet, and fishing-station, commonly called Beck Hoy, with a curing-house, and a free-school, the latter built and supported, during her lifetime, by the late amiable and lamented Miss Buxton: it is now carried on by Miss Gurney, of Northrepp's Cottage.

Foulness, or Cromer light-house, is in this parish.

Syderstrand is a small parish, containing not more than four hundred acres of land, partly belonging to Samuel Hoare, Esq., the lord of the manor, and patron of the living, which is a rectory, alternately with the sovereign as Duchess of Lancaster. The church, dedicated to St. Michael, stands on a solitary eminence, and in appearance and loneliness, reminds the traveller of the sacred edifices which salute his eye in the Isle of Man.

Not a tree or a bush casts a shade near it, the dead alone in their solitude surround it, and the deep calm is broken only by the hollow dash of the billows, or the occasional screech of the sea-mew.

Still continuing in view of the sea, you reach Trimmingham, which stands on the highest ground in Norfolk. The cliffs are here not less than three hundred feet high. It is five miles E. S. E. of Cromer, and the same distance N. by E. of North Walsham. The ocean here also gains considerably on the coast. Several years ago, two farm-houses, with their yards and outbuildings, were washed down by the sea. This accident was owing to the choking up of a spring, which occasioned such a subterraneous body of water, that several acres of land, as well as these buildings, were detached from the main land and washed into the sea.

The church stands on the highest point of the cliffs. It was formerly a favourite resort of the superstitious and ignorant; for its ancient priests pretended that they were in the possession of the hand of St. John the Baptist; an imposition which was a source of considerable wealth to them, as pilgrims from all parts visited it, making large offerings in honour of the precious relic. The living is in the gift of the crown. Part of the glebe land has been washed into the sea.

On a hill about a mile from the village are to be seen the ruins of an old beacon. This hill commands an exceedingly fine prospect both of the sea and land. In very clear weather Yarmouth is discernible, and the spire of Norwich Cathedral is seen without difficulty. This spot has gained such celebrity for the extensive view it affords, that few persons quit Cromer without having visited it. It is said that no less than from thirty to forty churches may be counted from hence.

About two miles further on, is Mundesley, which from a mere straggling village has become of sufficient importance to rank next to Cromer as a watering-place; a circumstance owing chiefly to the spirited exertions of F. Wheatly, Esq., although it is, and must continue to be, greatly inferior to that place in every respect. It is distant from Cromer seven miles. Like Cromer, it is situated on the lofty and broken cliffs of the ocean, which, however, are here divided by a deep ravine, through which a small stream discharges itself upon the beach, which at low water has a broad firm sand, and, like Cromer, it is subjected to the formidable encroachments of the sea. To remedy this, the above-named liberal individual erected, at the cost of a thousand pounds, a massive wall, forming an upper and a lower terrace, the latter of which, being ninety feet above the beach, commands a most extensive and delightful view of the ocean. In the year 1837, during the same extraordinary high tides, that ravaged Cromer, this wall was in part destroyed, and was repaired at a cost little inferior to the first. The prospect upon the beach to the southward, differs greatly in appearance from that of Cromer, by the land at Happisburgh projecting into the sea, forming a promontory. There are two good inns here, and several respectable lodging-houses, with bathing-machines, a warm bath, and other necessary accommodations for visitors.

Returning by Southrepps, we are struck with its church which is one of the most beautiful in the neighbourhood, and, as usual, is built on an eminence. It is dedicated to St. James. In the year 1788, the side-aisles were taken down, and the arches filled up. The living is in the gift of the crown. The parsonage-house is situated near it.

On a hill, about a mile from the village, are the ruins of an old beacon, which commands a fine view of the sea and surrounding country. Southrepps, is five miles from Cromer and one from Thorpe. The drive consists of seventeen miles.

NORTHREPPS HALL AND COTTAGE.

A short and very pleasant drive may be made, by taking the road to Northrepps, and having passed the Hall, and Hill House, both belonging to Richard Gurney, Esq., returning by the road leading to the Cottage. This mansion, which is sometimes also called the Hermitage, is inhabited by Miss Gurney, and for its romantic situation is greatly admired. It stands in a deep valley, opening towards Overstrand and the sea. It is flinted in the Gothic style, and with the porch is thatched and fitted up with great taste and simplicity. The grounds and woods by which it is surrounded are extremely beautiful.

On an eminence called Toll's-hill, not far from the cottage, is a very fine echo, produced by a bold and lofty range of hills, on the opposite side of the vale, and extending between it and the sea from Overstrand to Syderstrand.

EXCURSION TO THORPE AND GUNTON HALL, RETURNING BY ROUGHTON.

Taking the Norwich road, we proceed to the village of Northrepps, which is divided into two parts, called Church Street and Far Street, containing about two thousand six hundred acres of land, picturesquely broken into hill and dale, and belonging chiefly to Lord Suffield. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, though not equal to Southrepps, is a noble building, with a lofty square tower. The patronage is vested in the crown. The rectory-house and free-school, which he also endowed, were both erected at the cost of the late incumbent, the Rev. Thomas Hay, D.D.

Leaving now the Norwich road, and taking that to North Walsham, we reach Thorpe Market, which is a small but extremely pretty village, about a mile from Gunton Hall, four and a half from North Walsham, and the same from Cromer.

The present church is much and deservedly admired for the simplicity and elegance of its construction. It is dedicated to St. Margaret, and was partly built on the site of the old one, by the second Lord Suffield, who died in 1821. It consists only of a single arch, of flint-stone and freestone, with turrets at the angles, and a gable on each side, surmounted by a cross. The windows are ornamented with painted glass, as are also the upper parts of two light Gothic screens, which divide the chancel and the west end from the centre part, which is fitted up for divine service. It contains three ancient monuments, taken from the old church, and a handsome one by Rynart, erected to the memory of two brothers of the noble founder. The vault of the Rants was under the old church, but is now securely bricked up in the churchyard.

Close to the church are extensive gardens, to which parties are made, to eat strawberries and cream, &c. An oak stands there, which, for beauty and size attracts universal admiration, and is, in fact, one of the lions of the place. Some Spanish chestnuts also, near the church-gate, are very fine.

Leaving Thorpe for Gunton Hall, the seat of the Right Hon. Lord Suffield, you pass, at the north-east angle of the park, under the arch of an elegant tower, rising to the height of one hundred and twenty feet six inches, from which an extensive prospect is afforded of the surrounding country. The Hall itself is an elegant edifice, built of white brick, and it was much enlarged under the direction of Mr. Wyatt, in 1785. It stands on an eminence commanding a very fine view of the park and its plantations, which occupy not less than nine hundred and forty-two acres. More attention has been paid in the interior to comfort than to splendor, in which respect it is not to be exceeded. The gardens are extensive, and tastefully laid out. The park is well stocked with deer, and is noted for the number of pheasants and hares with which it abounds. From the Thorpe road an avenue is pointed out, which extends two miles, and opens into the park, through which the view is perfectly unobstructed.

A fine lake lies on the left as we leave the park through the Hanworth Lodge, where the trees again form an avenue, naturally, and in a most picturesque manner, interlacing their luxuriant branches, and forming a canopy over the road.

The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, has a handsome portico of the Doric order, and was rebuilt by Sir Willian Morden Harbord, Bart., who became possessed of the estate in 1742. The rectory is consolidated with Hanworth, and is in the gift of Lord Suffield. The house is shown to visitors.

There is little to be noticed at Roughton, except that it is a pleasant village in an open vale, containing about one thousand one hundred acres of land, of which three hundred and seventy-six are of heath. The church is a vicarage, of which the Bishop of Ely is patron. It boasts of a free-school, endowed with thirty-six acres of land, founded by Robert Brown early in the seventeenth century. Roughton is four miles from Cromer. The drive consists of nearly fourteen miles.

EXCURSION TO SHERRINGHAM, THROUGH RUNTON AND BEESTON.

The drive to Runton is by some considered the least pleasing of any round Cromer. We hardly know how to subscribe to this opinion, for the sea-view is extremely fine, and there are points of inland beauty belonging to it which are very striking. As we before observed, the town itself, to be seen to advantage, should be viewed from this road.

Runton parish comprises two small villages, called East and West Runton, and is from one to two miles distant from Cromer. It contains about one thousand acres of land, subject to the encroachments of the ocean, and is bounded on the south by a lofty range of hills. The high hill to the left is known by the name of Wrinkleborrow Hill. The church, which is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, stands on an acclivity above West Runton, and is a rectory, united with Aylmerton. East Runton is a mere fishing village, nearly a mile east of the church, on a small green. Sir T. F. Buxton owns a very neat mansion here.

About a mile distant is the small village of Beeston, or as it is distinguished from others of the same name, Beeston Regis, or Beeston on the Sea, which adjoins Lower Sherringham. The church, which is near the beach, is dedicated to All Saints, and is a rectory, of which the patronage is vested in the Duchy of Lancaster.

The object of attraction here, however, to the visitor, is the ruins of its ancient priory, which stand at the east end of the village in a romantic dale, sheltered from the cold winds of the north by lofty hills, yet so situated as to command a noble view of the sea and of the surrounding country. The site indeed of all the religious houses of old was so invariably selected on principles of the best taste, and with the utmost regard to the local advantages and conveniences of the place, that a recollection of the fact should always draw attention to the point, with a view to discover what these were.

The priory was dedicated to St. Mary, and was founded in the reign of King John, by the Lady Isabel, or, as some say, by the Lady Elizabeth de Cressy, for canons of the order of St. Augustine. At the dissolution it was granted to Sir Edward Windham and others. A small tower, and the whole of the west gable-wall of the Priory church are standing, together with many other large masses of walls, over which the "ruin-loving ivy" extends its faithful embraces. Some years ago the ivy grew most luxuriantly, but it was ruthlessly cut down, since which time, though its growth has been encouraged, it has not recovered its original beauty. To see these ruins to advantage, they should be visited in the evening, when the glowing yet subdued rays of the setting sun illuminating the most picturesque parts of the abbey and the surrounding landscape, and throwing others into deep and harmonious shade, a picture is presented to the careless observer which cannot fail to give gratification, and to awaken in the more meditative that train of melancholy but pleasing thought, which seems so peculiarly to belong to such spectacles and to such seasons.

Lower Sherringham, which is nearly a mile and a half distant from the church, is situated on lofty sea-cliffs, rising nearly one hundred feet from the beach. These cliffs are divided by a narrow ravine, through which a small rivulet and a road winds down the beach. It is a considerable fishing-station, having several curing-houses. Cod, skate, whitings, crabs, and lobsters are caught here in abundance, particularly the two latter, of which great quantities are sent to London by vessels which receive the fish from the boats whilst at sea.

The sea makes continual encroachments here as on other places on this coast. During an extraordinary high tide, which occurred on the 22nd of October, 1800, a large inn was precipitated in ruins upon the beach, but providentially its inhabitants had sufficient warning of their danger to save themselves and much of their furniture. A new inn has been since erected.

There are a few traces of a chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas, still to be seen.--The lovers of the sublime will do well to visit the cliffs of this place.

From hence to Upper Sherringham the road becomes exceedingly picturesque and beautiful, and is not to be exceeded by any other in the neighbourhood. The estate which lies to the right, together with the handsome mansion erected upon it, belonged to the late A. Upcher, Esq., and is now in possession of his son. The house seen nearest the road, and which is often mistaken for the Hall, the seat of H. R. Upcher, Esq., is inhabited by the Hon. Mrs. Upcher, the widow of the above gentleman; a lady of whom it may truly be said by the poor of her neighbourhood, that she is "feet to the lame, and eyes to the blind," and a friend to all.

The church, which is dedicated to All Saints, is a vicarage, of which the Bishop of Ely is the patron. It is a very neat structure, and is kept in excellent repair. It boasts of only two or three slabs with brasses upon them, and one monument, by Bacon, erected in the chancel to the memory of Mr. Upcher, but this is well worthy of inspection. The design is elegantly conceived and admirably executed, yet so simple and touching, and the inscription it bears is so impressive, that it can scarcely fail to do, what, indeed, all such momentoes ought to do, and are perhaps intended to do,--affect the heart of the observer, and recall a truth to his mind, which is too often forgotten--that all on earth is fleeting and unstable.

Near the church is a large reservoir, which was formed in 1814, to supply the village with water, brought in pipes from a spring on the neighbouring hill. The school is supported by Mrs. Upcher, for the education of thirty boys and fifty girls, who each pay one penny per week.

If the visitor desire to view Sherringham Hall, the mansion and grounds of H. R. Upcher, Esq., he should take the Upper Road, as it is called, leaving Cromer by the Holt-road, by which means he will not only gain the most advantageous view of each, but avoid the ascent of a very long and high hill. Entering the lodge-gate direct from the road, he will proceed for nearly a mile through a path-road through the grounds, which for boldness, beauty, and variety is unequalled in this part of the country, and would not disgrace even some of the more favoured spots in Wales. If the gurgling of the concealed stream, or the gush of falling water were heard,--the characteristic accompaniment of Welch scenery,--the delusion would be complete: as it is surprise and pleasure divide the attention. After winding down the hill for some time, occasionally obtaining a fine prospect of the ocean, and seeing to advantage the house inhabited by the Hon. Mrs. Upcher, we suddenly come in view of the Hall itself, which is a handsome and commodious edifice. Its situation is well chosen, overlooking a fine bay of the ocean, and sheltered by a woody acclivity. The ground everywhere rises into bold swells, and is adorned with trees from their summits to their base, united by gentle slopes to the rich valleys, "spotted with white sheep," that divide them. The effect of alternate light and shade on these at a distance is delightfully shown, and the whole scenery is such as may equally gratify the painter and the lover of nature.

One pensive thought, however, is awakened by the recollection that the amiable individual who erected the mansion and in part adorned the surrounding grounds, did not live to inhabit the one or to enjoy the other. Mr. Upcher died in the flower of his age, in 1819, just before the house was completed, leaving a widow and several young children, and is interred in a mausoleum which he built adjoining the church.

Having passed the house, the road leads into the Lower Road, to Beeston and Runton, or by taking the road to the left, you may reach Weybourn, where the cliff ends.

The drive to Upper Sherringham by the Lower Road, or Runton, consists of five miles; by the Upper, or Holt, six miles. If extended to Weybourn, eight miles.

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