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Read Ebook: Certain delightful English towns with glimpses of the pleasant country between by Howells William Dean

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Ebook has 393 lines and 95471 words, and 8 pages

CHAP. PAGE

LOOKING DOWN FROM THE HOE " 8

A GROUP OF PUBLIC EDIFICES, MODERN PLYMOUTH " 10

OLD HOUSES ALOOF FROM THE WATER " 16

A BIT OF COUNTRY BETWEEN PLYMOUTH AND EXETER " 22

"IN EXETER OUR FIRST CATHEDRAL WAS WAITING US" " 24

THE CASTLE OF ROUGEMONT " 26

"THE CATHEDRAL ... A SOFT GRAY BLUR OF AGE-WORN CARVING" " 28

GREAT PULTENEY STREET " 42

THE RED-TILED HOUSE-ROOFS AND CHURCH SPIRES OF BATH " 48

CIRCUS FROM BENNET STREET " 50

THE GUINEA-PIG MAN " 80

SAXON CHAPEL AT BRADFORD " 84

KINGSTON HOUSE, BRADFORD " 88

SUTTON COURT, ONE OF ENGLAND'S HISTORIC HOUSES " 94

WELLS CATHEDRAL, FROM SOUTHEAST " 106

MARKET-PLACE, WELLS " 110

BRISTOL HARBOR AND DRAWBRIDGE " 112

CLIFTON, FROM ASHTON MEADOWS " 116

GORGE OF THE AVON, WITH ST. VINCENT'S ROCKS " 120

THE SOUTH SHORE, SOUTHAMPTON " 126

"THE PIER WAS A PRIVATE ENTERPRISE " 128

THE OLD TOWER WALL

"THE TRAM'S COURSE WAS LARGELY THROUGH UMBRAGEOUS AVENUES" " 140

THE BEACH, FOLKESTONE " 144

THE PIER WITH ITS PAVILION " 146

THE SHELTER UNDER THE LEAS " 148

THE FISH-MARKET AT FOLKESTONE " 150

THE ANCIENT CHURCH AT HYTHE " 156

ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH, CANTERBURY " 184

THE NORMAN STAIRCASE IN THE CLOSE--CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL " 186

MAGDALEN TOWER " 194

"A BUMP" " 200

OXFORD--LOOKING UP THE ISIS " 216

WATER-TOWER AND ROMAN REMAINS " 220

KING CHARLES'S TOWER " 224

CHESTER CASTLE " 230

MALVERN--THE TOWN " 240

THE PRIORY CHURCH--NORTH VIEW " 242

BRITISH CAMP, SHOWING ROMAN INTRENCHMENTS " 250

PRIORY CHURCH--SWAN POOL IN FOREGROUND " 254

WORCESTER CATHEDRAL, FROM SOUTHWEST " 258

WORCESTER FROM THE RIVER " 260

THE ENGLISH BRIDGE " 272

THE WASHINGTON HOUSE AT LITTLE BRINGTON " 278

THE BUSINESS CENTRE OF NORTHAMPTON " 280

THE CHURCH AT GREAT BRINGTON " 286

CERTAIN DELIGHTFUL ENGLISH TOWNS CERTAIN DELIGHTFUL ENGLISH TOWNS

THE LANDING OF A PILGRIM AT PLYMOUTH

No American, complexly speaking, finds himself in England for the first time, unless he is one of those many Americans who are not of English extraction. It is probable, rather, that on his arrival, if he has not yet visited the country, he has that sense of having been there before which a simpler psychology than ours used to make much of without making anything of. His English ancestors who really were once there stir within him, and his American forefathers, who were nourished on the history and literature of England, and were therefore intellectually English, join forces in creating an English consciousness in him. Together, they make it very difficult for him to continue a new-comer, and it may be that only on the fourth or fifth coming shall the illusion wear away and he find himself a stranger in a strange land. But by that time custom may have done its misleading work, and he may be as much as ever the prey of his first impressions. I am sure that some such result in me will evince itself to the reader in what I shall have to say of my brief stay with the English foster-mother of our American Plymouth; and I hope he will not think it altogether to be regretted.

My first impressions of England, after a fourth or fifth visit, began even before I landed in Plymouth, for I decided that there was something very national in the behavior of a young Englishman who, as we neared his native shores, varied from day to day, almost from hour to hour, in his doubt whether a cap or a derby hat was the right wear for a passenger about landing. He seemed also perplexed whether he should or should not speak to some of his fellow-passengers in the safety of parting, but having ventured, seemed to like it. On the tender which took us from the steamer to the dock I fancied another type in the Englishman whom I asked which was the best hotel in Plymouth. At first he would not commit himself; then his humanity began to work in him, and he expressed a preference, and abruptly left me. He returned directly to give the reasons for his preference, and to excuse them, and again he left me. A second time he came back, with his conscience fully roused, and conjured me not to think of going elsewhere.

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