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Read Ebook: The American Bee Journal Volume XXXIII No. 4 January 25 1894 by Various York George W Editor
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Ebook has 307 lines and 21052 words, and 7 pages
Editor: George W. York
It is proposed that a "honey pyramid," consisting of comb and extracted honey, be built, six feet square at the base, and 15 feet high. It is thought that 1,500 pounds will be required, and that this will exceed the famous Egyptian pyramids--in sweetness.
California bee-keepers are invited to help make the display, which, no doubt, they will do in a handsome manner.
The more rain and snow in November and December, the more honey there will be the following season; and if there is no rain or snow in the two months mentioned, there will be no honey.
The predictions are made upon the reports of the State Weather Bureaus, or the Weather Bureau reports in Washington, D. C. All who wish to test the reliability of such a basis for a honey-prediction, should get the weather reports, and begin to foretell for themselves, and thus not be required to await the movements of some so-called "honey-prophet."
We believe the above rule for prophesying is for linden, sourwood, and white clover honey.
Who knows but this may be the secret to which the Tennessee honey-prophet, Sam Wilson, has been so tenaciously hanging on? We shouldn't be a bit surprised if it should prove to be that very secret. If so, every bee-keeper can now be his own "honey-prophet"--whether he gets any honey or not.
There being no money to buy the honey for a suitable exhibit, Mr. Kretchmer, by issuing several circulars, and making several personal visits to prominent apiarists, enlisted the aid of the Iowa bee-keepers, and nobly did they respond by loaning the honey that was exhibited in the Iowa case. Believing that much credit is due those who thus generously loan honey for exhibition purposes, we give the names of those who aided thus, and also what they contributed:
E. J. Cronkleton, of Dunlap--100 pounds of nice comb honey.
F. A. Beals, of Salix--480 pounds of extracted basswood honey, and 544 pounds of comb honey.
R. B. Arnold, of Foster--20 pounds of white clover comb honey.
T. C. DeClercq, of DeSoto--60 pounds of extracted clover honey, 60 pounds of extracted basswood honey, and 105 pounds of comb honey.
L. G. Clute, of Manchester--20 pounds of very nice comb honey, and this was honored with an award.
A. J. Duncan, of Hartford--50 pounds of extracted basswood honey.
F. Furst, of Adair--40 pounds of comb honey.
Oliver Foster, of Mt. Vernon--30 pounds of comb honey, and 60 pounds of extracted honey; which also received an award.
Thos. O. Hines, of Anamosa--91 pounds of comb honey.
Thos. Johnson, of Coon Rapids--22 pounds of comb, and 25 pounds of extracted honey.
Noah Miller, of North English--48 pounds of white clover comb honey.
J. H. Stanford, of Cherokee--20 pounds of aster honey, gathered in October, 1892.
J. L. Strong of Clarinda--100 pounds of comb honey.
J. H. Stephens, of Riverton--60 pounds of extracted basswood honey, and 43 pounds of comb honey.
Mont. Wyrick, of Cascade--100 pounds of extracted honey.
E. Kretchmer, of Red Oak--100 pounds of alfalfa comb honey, which received an award; also 200 pounds of extracted clover honey, which also received an award, and 175 pounds of clover comb honey.
Wm. Kimble, of DeWitt--77 pounds of comb, and 66 pounds of extracted honey, which received an award.
All of the extracted honey was displayed in 18 different vessels, holding from 4 ounces to 12 pounds each.
The principal display of extracted honey was near the east end of the case, arranged on cone-shaped shelving. This cone of honey reached a height of about 6 feet, and was 5 feet in diameter, while near the west end of the case a pyramid was erected, with extracted honey in different sized glass jars, with sheets of glass between the several tiers, and large vase-shaped jars filled with honey were dispersed within the case.
The arrangement of displaying the comb honey consisted principally in a bank near the center of the case, about 11 feet long, tapering from a base nearly 5 feet wide to a crest 6 feet high, surmounted with extracted honey in ornamental jars.
The front, or west end, display consisted of two columns of comb honey which supported the words "IOWA HONEY," built of comb honey; over which was shown a hollow tri-angle of fine comb honey, reaching to the top of the case.
In the east end of the case was displayed a tri-angle of comb honey in open sections, the three walls being 3x5 feet each, surmounted with extracted honey in vessels of various sizes and shapes. Near the edge of the ceiling of the case were suspended neat glass pails filled with extracted honey; while nice specimens of bright wax, in ornamental forms and shapes, were placed in every available nook and corner of the case.
To the untiring efforts of Bro. Kretchmer belongs the credit of securing and placing the very tasty exhibit of Iowa honey and wax. Few men would have undertaken the task, and carried it to as successful a completion, as he did. On another page of this issue of the BEE JOURNAL may be found a picture and also biographical sketch of Bro. Kretchmer--the man to whom Iowa bee-keepers now owe a debt of gratitude.
ANSWERED BY DR. C. C. MILLER, MARENGO, ILL.
In this department will be answered those questions needing IMMEDIATE attention, and such as are not of sufficient special interest to require replies from the 20 or more apiarists who help to make "Queries and Replies" so interesting on another page. In the main, it will contain questions and answers upon matters that particularly interest beginners.--ED.
What is the best way to feed bees when wintering in the cellar? I started in 1891 with three colonies, but have had bad luck the last two winters. I have 13 colonies at the present time--9 outdoors, and 4 in the cellar.
M. W.
Sterling, Ill.
ANSWER.--There is nothing better than to give them frames filled with honey. Carefully remove two or three of the empty combs till you strike the brood-nest--that is, till you come to a comb with bees on--then put in a comb of honey. Be sure that there are bees enough on the comb next to the honey so that there will be no doubt about their commencing on the honey right away, for there might be such a thing as their starving without ever touching it, unless it were pushed right under their little noses. If the first frame in the brood-nest has too few bees, it may be best to put the honey between this and the next comb with bees on. If the temperature of your cellar varies, don't take the time when it is coldest.
As I have always had bad luck in wintering bees out-of-doors, I thought I would winter them in the cellar this winter, so I have followed the AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL along, and studied closely all that has appeared in it about wintering bees in the cellar. I finally settled upon the way of one writer's plan, thinking it perhaps a good way; that is, to raise the hive from the bottom-board about an inch, by putting blocks under the corners. I believe he said that the bees would not come out if kept in the dark--that I have done, and I find every time I go to them, that the ground is covered with dead bees, and at this rate I think there will not be any left by spring. Why do my bees come out, if others do not?
My crop of honey last season was none, as usual, and I have had to feed to carry the bees through the winter.
E. H. H.
St. Johnsbury Center, Vt.
ANSWER.--Whatever may be the cause of your bees dying, you may rely on it that it is not likely to be caused by the raising of the hive as you have done. You can keep the bees from troubling the cellar-bottom by letting the hive down and shutting the bees in with wire cloth, for in that case the bees cannot get out, but they'll die just as fast as ever and perhaps a little faster, for if bees find they are fastened in, they are all the more eager to get out.
There must be something wrong with the bees or the cellar, and knowing nothing about it but that the hive is raised and the bees are dying, it is hard to make any kind of a guess as to the cause of the trouble. If the hive is spotted and daubed about the entrance, then diarrhea is at work. This may come from the quality of the food, or it may come from the condition of the cellar; 45? seems to be the degree of temperature that most agree upon as desirable, and if your cellar is much above 50? it is probably too warm. If below 40?, I would try heating it up, to see what the effect would be. Anything that quiets the bees down may be considered a move in the right direction, for undoubtedly bees that are coming out and dying in large numbers are not quiet.
It may be that the air of the cellar is bad--too close, or poisoned with decaying vegetables--but there isn't much use in going on guessing. The most that can be said is to try to have pure air at about 45?, and see whether the trouble continues.
J. S.
Long, W. Va.
ANSWERS.--1. If you are anxious for increase and care little for honey, you will do well to put on no supers. Or, you might let part of them have one super each. You may find, however, that it will not make much difference.
If you have had no experience in that line, perhaps it will be best not to meddle much with dividing colonies, but let the bees swarm at their own sweet will; still, it will be good practice for you to make a few colonies by dividing. In any case, be sure to get some good text-book and study up thoroughly, then you will have a more intelligent idea of the whole business. Any points that are not clearly understood will be cheerfully explained in this department, unless you ask too hard questions.
I have a case of dead brood on my hands, which I do not understand. The bees are in a 10-frame hive that I bought of a neighbor last June. At this time they have a hive full of honey and young bees; they are carrying out young brood that is just ready to cap over. It does not appear to be foul brood, and I do not know what to call it. Any information on the subject would be appreciated.
M. F. B.
Indianapolis, Ind.
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