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LONDON

AND ITS

ENVIRONS

DESCRIBED.

LONDON

AND ITS

ENVIRONS DESCRIBED.

CONTAINING

An Account of whatever is most remarkable for GRANDEUR, ELEGANCE, CURIOSITY or USE,

In the CITY and in the COUNTRY Twenty Miles round it.

COMPREHENDING ALSO

Whatever is most material in the History and Antiquities of this great Metropolis.

Decorated and illustrated with a great Number of Views in Perspective, engraved from original Drawings, taken on purpose for this Work.

Together with a PLAN of LONDON, A Map of the ENVIRONS, and several other useful CUTS.

LONDON: Printed for R. and J. DODSLEY in Pall-Mall.

TO HIS

ROYAL HIGHNESS

GEORGE,

PRINCE OF WALES,

THIS WORK IS MOST HUMBLY INSCRIBED, BY

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS's

MOST DEVOTED

AND OBEDIENT

HUMBLE SERVANTS,

THE PROPRIETORS.

PREFACE.

IT is hoped that the great variety of new, useful, curious and entertaining articles which will be found in the following work, will entitle it to a favourable reception from the public. No pains nor expence have been spared to give it as much accuracy and perfection as the nature of such a work will admit of. And though we do not flatter ourselves that it will be absolutely free from errors or imperfections, yet we doubt not but the candid reader will find so much to commend, that he will easily be inclined to excuse some unavoidable deficiencies.

The Environs of London, though they contain many of the most remarkable seats and places in the kingdom, have never before been included in any account of that metropolis; and we are persuaded, that the most intelligent enquirer will here find numberless curiosities, not hitherto taken notice of by any other writers: besides, we have not only been particular in our descriptions of whatever is remarkable twenty miles round; but to assist his observation, we have added a map, which we flatter ourselves will be found to have some advantages over any other that has yet appeared. This map, and these descriptions, will serve both as a guide and an instructor to the travelling Virtuosi, whether natives or foreigners, in their little excursions to any part of these delightfully adorned and richly cultivated environs.

In order to render the knowledge of this metropolis as complete as possible, we have necessarily been obliged, in conformity with our plan, to treat of what may to some appear little and uninteresting, as well as of what is great and important. Among these the citizens are particularly interested in knowing the extent and limits of the wards in which they reside: and it was absolutely necessary to mention in their proper places all the several companies that compose their whole body: and as every inhabitant of the kingdom may, at one time or another, have occasion to visit or write to their friends or relations residing in this great city, the names and situation of all the several streets, lanes, rows, courts, yards and allies could not be omitted. With regard to these an ingenious gentleman has furnished us with a key, which has let us into the origin of many of their names; and this part of our work is farther illustrated by a new and correct plan.

The prints with which the whole is decorated, are all engraved by the best hands, after original drawings, which were taken on purpose for this work, from the several objects themselves, at a very great expence; and we imagine they will not only be considered as an ornament, but that they will be found of use in illustrating the verbal descriptions.

We beg leave in this place to make our grateful acknowledgments to several of the nobility and gentry, who have been pleased to favour us on this occasion with lists and accounts of their pictures, curiosities, &c. which have greatly enriched and added a value to our work; and being entirely new, cannot but be acceptable to the public.

LONDON

AND ITS

ENVIRONS

DESCRIBED, &c.

As many ridiculous miracles have been related of its foundation, it is the less surprizing that its dedication should also be represented as miraculous, and that St. Peter himself, five hundred years after his decease, should be represented by the monks, as doing honour to the new fabric, by performing the ceremony himself. For according to the legend, the King having ordered Mellitus to perform the ceremony, St. Peter over-night called upon Edricus, a fisherman, and desired to be ferried over to Thorney, which happened to be then overflowed by the heavy rains that had lately fallen; the fisherman consented, and having carried over the Apostle, he saw him consecrate the church amidst a grand chorus of celestial music, and a glorious appearance of heavenly lights. After which the Apostle returning, discovered himself to the fisherman, and bid him tell Mellitus what he had heard and seen, and as a proof of his divine mission, gave him a miraculous draught of salmon, and then assured him, that none of his profession should ever want that kind of fish in the proper season, provided they made an offering of the tenth fish for the use of the new church; which custom, it seems, was continued by the fishermen four hundred years after.

This church and its monastery were afterwards repaired and enlarged by Offa, King of Mercia, but being destroyed by the Pagan Danes, they were rebuilt by King Edgar, who endowed them with lands and manors, and in the year 969 granted them many ample privileges.

This, and King Edward's other charters, in which he recites the ridiculous story of its consecration by St. Peter, as above related, its destruction by the Danes, the grants and privileges of his predecessors, and those bestowed by himself, drew people thither from all parts, so that in a short time there was not sufficient room in the Abbey church for the accommodation of the numerous inhabitants, without incommoding the monks; he therefore caused a church to be erected on the north side of the monastery, for the use of the inhabitants, and dedicated it to St. Margaret.

William the Conqueror, to shew his regard to the memory of his late friend King Edward, no sooner arrived in London, than he repaired to this church, and offered a sumptuous pall, as a covering for his tomb; he also gave fifty marks of silver, together with a very rich altar cloth, and two caskets of gold; and the Christmas following was solemnly crowned there, his being the first coronation performed in that place.

This venerable fabric has been accordingly new coated on the outside, except that part called Henry the Seventh's chapel, which is indeed a separate building: and the west end has been adorned with two new stately towers that have been lately rebuilt, in such a manner as to be thought equal in point of workmanship to any part of the ancient building; but though such pains have been taken in the coating, to preserve the ancient Gothic grandeur, that this church in its distant prospect has all the venerable majesty of its former state, yet the beautiful carving with which it was once adorned, is irretrievably lost; the buttresses, once capped with turrets, are now made in plain pyramidical forms, and topped with freestone; and the statues of our ancient Kings that formerly stood in niches, near the tops of those buttresses, are for the most part removed, and their broken fragments lodged in the roof of Henry the Seventh's chapel. Three of these statues are still standing next the towers on the north side, and indeed that is the only side where you can take a view of the Abbey, the other side being so incumbered with buildings, that even its situation cannot be distinguished.

Indeed the multiplicity of puerile ornaments profusely lavished, the strong and beautiful perspective, and that romantic air of grandeur so visible in this structure, and above all the height of the middle isle at our first entrance, fill the eye, strike us in a very forcible manner, and at once raise our admiration and astonishment. To which let it be added, that the ranges of venerable monuments on each hand, some of them most magnificent, have a natural tendency to strike the mind with an uncommon degree of solemnity, and to raise the most serious reflections.

The extent of the building is very considerable; for it is 360 feet within the walls, at the nave it is 72 feet broad, and at the cross 195. The Gothic arches and side isles are supported by 48 pillars of grey marble, each composed of clusters of very slender ones, and covered with ornaments. The moment you enter the west door the whole body of the church opens itself at once to your view, the pillars dividing the nave from the side isles being so formed as not to obstruct the side openings, nor is your sight terminated to the east, but by the fine painted window over Edward the Confessor's chapel, which anciently, when the altar was low, and adorned with the beautiful shrine of that pretended saint, must have afforded one of the finest prospects that can be imagined.

The next thing worthy of observation is the fine altar enclos'd with a curious balustrade, within which is a pavement of mosaic work, laid at the expence of Abbot Ware, in the year 1272, and is said to be one of the most beautiful of its kind in the world: the stones of which it is composed are porphyry, jasper, lydian and serpentine. The altar is a beautiful piece of marble, removed from Whitehall, and presented to this church by order of her majesty Queen Anne. On each side of the altar are doors, opening into St. Edward's chapel.

On the south side of this shrine lies Editha, daughter to Goodwyn, Earl of Kent, and Queen to St. Edward, with whom she lived eighteen years, and tho' she was the most accomplished woman of that age, confessed on her death-bed, that he suffered her to live and die a virgin; and, as an ancient manuscript in the Cotton library has it, "nathelees, tho' the Kinge had a wyfe, he lived ev'moe in chastete, and clennes, wythowten any fleshley dedes doynge wyth his wyfe the Queen, and so dyd the Queen on her syde." She survived her husband eight years, and beheld all the miseries consequent upon his dying without issue. She was however treated with great respect by William the Conqueror, who allowed her an apartment in the King's palace at Winchester, where she died, and was interred here, by his express orders.

Near the remains of this Princess lie those of Queen Maud, surnam'd the Good, the daughter of Malcolm Conmair, King of Scotland, to whom she was espoused, in order to unite the Saxon and Norman lines, and thereby to reconcile the affections of the English to the future Kings that should spring from them. She died on the 11th of May 1118. This excellent Princess was distinguished by her many virtues, particularly her humility, and her placing her chief delight in relieving the poor.

That is,

It is remarkable, that the body of this Queen was only interred here, and that her heart was placed in the choir of the friars predicants in London.

Against the east wall is a table monument to the memory of Sir John Burgh, who was killed in 1594, in taking a large Spanish ship, laden with gold, silver and jewels of inestimable value.

In one corner is an ancient monument of Robert Kirton, that has several labels in black letters round his portrait, which rests upon eagles crowned. He died Oct. 3, 1466.

Close to the wall is a monument of Sir George Hollis, nephew to Sir Francis Vere, and a Major General under him. On the pedestal is represented the siege of a town in relief, where the principal figure is a General on horseback holding a battoon, and having one eye blemished, perhaps alluding to the siege of Newport, in which Sir George also gained great honour, and had a horse killed under him. On each side of this pedestal sits a Pallas, lamenting the death of the great warrior, who is represented above in the Roman habit, standing erect upon a lofty altar, with a cherub supporting the plinth on which he stands. Sir George died in January 1626. An ingenious author speaking of this monument, says, that Sir George was the first erect figure set up in the Abbey; "an attitude, says he, which I am far from discommending, for 'tis my opinion, statues should always represent life and action: 'tis peculiarly adapted to heroes, who ought never to be supposed at rest, and should have their characters represented as strong as possible: this before us is bold and manly, though not chaste and elegant: 'tis finely elevated too, and the mourning Pallases, at the base of it, are both well fancied and well applied."

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