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LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS DESCRIBED.

CONTAINING

An Account of whatever is most remarkable for GRANDEUR, ELEGANCE, CURIOSITY or USE,

In the CITY and in the COUNTRY Twenty Miles round it.

COMPREHENDING ALSO

Whatever is most material in the History and Antiquities of this great Metropolis.

Decorated and illustrated with a great Number of Views in Perspective, engraved from original Drawings, taken on purpose for this Work.

Together with a PLAN of LONDON, A Map of the ENVIRONS, and several other useful CUTS.

LONDON: Printed by R. and J. DODSLEY in Pall-Mall.

LONDON AND ITS ENVIRONS DESCRIBED, &c.

LONDON, the metropolis of Great Britain, and one of the largest and richest cities upon earth, is of such antiquity that it is impossible to give any certain account of its origin. It probably existed in the time of the ancient Britons, before the art of writing was brought into England, and when there were no other monuments of ancient facts, than what were found in the songs of the bards, which were preserved only by memory.

London had however no buildings either of brick or stone, till it was inhabited by the Romans; for the dwellings of the Britons were only huts formed of twigs wattled together; however, Tacitus observes, that in the year 26, Londinum was very famous for the multitude of its merchants, and the greatness of its traffic; but soon after Suetonius abandoned the city to the fury of Boadicea, because it was too large to be defended by his little army of 10,000 Romans, which is certainly a proof of its being even then of a considerable extent. That British Princess however burnt this great city, and put all the inhabitants to the sword.

It will not be improper here to observe, that a dispute has arisen about the situation of this city in these early times; the Rev. and learned Dr. Gale, Dean of York, and Mr. Salmon, having offered many arguments to prove that it was a Roman station erected in St. George's Fields, to secure their conquests on that side the river, before they reduced the Trinobantines; particularly from the great quantities of Roman antiquities found in St. George's Fields; from the name of Cyningston, or Kennington, which Dr. Gale supposes was an ancient town and castle belonging to the Kings of England, and therefore probably a Roman station, because the Saxons generally used to settle in such places; and from the authority of Ptolemy, who has placed London on the south side of the Thames. In answer to these arguments, it has been very justly observed by Mr. Maitland, that the Romans were too wise to make use of so noisome and unhealthful a place for a station, as St. George's Fields then was, from their being overflowed by every spring tide; as they must have been before the river was confined by artificial banks, and before the building of London bridge, where, upon an ordinary spring tide, the water rises upwards of nineteen inches higher on the east side than on the west: that, if the antiquities discovered are any proof, above twenty times the quantity of Roman antiquities have been found on the north side of the river. With respect to the argument produced from the name of Kennington, the learned Mr. Woodward observes, that the Kings of England were, from our oldest notices of things, intitled to all such lands as were gained from the sea, or from such rivers as ebbed and flowed; and that with respect to the authority of Ptolemy, he had not only misplaced several other towns in Britain, but in countries much nearer to him.

The time when the city wall was first erected, is very uncertain, some authors ascribing this work to Constantine the Great, and others to his mother Helena; but Mr. Maitland brings several arguments to prove, that it was erected by Valentinian, about the year 368, and that it entirely surrounded the city, to secure it from being invaded by water as well as by land.

This wall was composed alternately of layers of flat Roman brick, and rag stones, and had many lofty towers. Those on the land side were fifteen in number. The remains of one of these is still to be seen in Shoemaker row, fronting the passage into Duke's Place; and there is another a little nearer Aldgate, twenty-one feet high. From the remains of the Roman work in the city wall, Mr. Maitland supposes, that, at the time of its erection, it was twenty-two feet in height, and that of the towers about forty feet. See LONDON WALL.

During the Saxon heptarchy, London was the metropolis of the kingdom of the East Saxons, and was then, as we are told by Bede, a princely mart-town, governed by a magistrate called a Portreve, that is, a governor or guardian of a port. We find this city then first called London-Byrig, which they soon after changed into Lunden-Ceaster, Lunden-Wye, Lundenne, Lunden-Berk, or Lunden-Burgh. At length Augustine the Monk, having introduced christianity into England, in the year 400, he was made Archbishop of Canterbury, when he ordained Mellitus bishop of the East Saxons, who had a church erected for him in this city by Ethelbert, King of Kent. Thus London first became the seat of a bishop; but this prelate was afterwards expelled, and paganism again for some time publicly established.

The history of the heptarchy is so very defective, that no mention is made of this city from the year 616, to that of 764. After this last period we find that London frequently suffered by fires, and was twice plundered by the Danes; the last time they transported an army in 350 ships up the Thames, and landing near London, soon reduced and plundered it; when looking upon it as a convenient fortress, whence they might at pleasure invade the kingdom of Wessex, made it a place of arms, and left in it a considerable garrison; but the wise and brave Alfred recovered the city, drove out the invaders, and then not only repaired the wall and towers, but embellished the city with additional buildings. But we have no account of the nature of the buildings or the edifices erected, only that in the year 961, there were but few houses within the city walls, and those irregularly dispersed; most of them being without Ludgate, so that Canterbury, York, and other places, contained more houses than London. The city having no bridge, the citizens cross'd the Thames by means of ferries.

But between the years 993, and 1016, a wooden bridge was erected. This great work was performed in the reign of Ethelred, and in the last mentioned year, Canute King of Denmark sailing up the river, in order to plunder the city, and finding that he could not pass the bridge with his ships, caused a canal to be cut through the marshes on the south side of the river, which probably began at the place now called Dockhead, and extending in a semicircle by Margaret's Hill, entered the Thames about St. Saviour's Dock, a little above the bridge. This work being accomplished, Canute brought his ships to the west of London bridge, and attacked the city on all sides; however the citizens exerting themselves with extraordinary bravery, he was repulsed with considerable loss, and obliged to raise the siege. Yet he afterwards renewed it with greater vigour than before, but with no better success. At last a peace was concluded between King Edmund and Canute, by which the kingdom was divided between them, when Mercia, of which London was the capital, falling to Canute's share, the city submitted to him; and Edmund dying a few months after, Canute summoned a parliament to meet in London, who chose that prince sole monarch of England.

Canute now, resolving to win the hearts of his new subjects, disbanded his army, and threw himself entirely upon the affections of the English, at which the above parliament were so pleased, that they granted him 83,000l. a prodigious sum at that time! for, according to the price of land and provisions then, it must have been equal to nine millions at present; and of this immense sum, London alone raised 11,000l. which is a convincing proof of the opulence of the city, since it must be possessed of above one seventh part of the wealth of the whole kingdom.

But we are not writing a history of England, but of its capital, we shall therefore pass over the following reigns, till we come to the invasion of William the Conqueror, who laid Southwark in ashes; but the Londoners afterwards submitting to him, he, in the year 1067, granted them his first charter in their own language, which consists of little more than four lines, beautifully written in the Saxon character on a slip of parchment, six inches long, and one broad, and is still preserved in the city archives.

In 1077 happened the greatest casual fire, that till this time ever befel the city, by which the greatest part of it was laid in ashes; and about two years after, the Conqueror beginning to suspect the fidelity of his subjects, caused the present square tower of London to be erected, to keep them in awe. See the TOWER OF LONDON.

In this reign were several other dreadful fires, and London bridge was in 1091 carried away by a land flood; but a few years after another wooden bridge was built in its room. In 1099 a high flood caused the Thames to overflow its banks, by which a great number of villages were laid under water, and many of their inhabitants drowned: at this time part of the lands belonging to Godwin Earl of Kent, were swallowed up by the sea, and are now denominated Goodwin's Sands; and this being a reign of prodigies, there happened fifteen years after such a defect of water in the river Thames, that numbers of people crossed not only above and below London bridge, but even through some of the arches, without wetting their feet.

Before the grant of this charter, London seems to have been entirely subject to the arbitrary will of the King. But the liberties of the citizens being now guarded by so strong a fence, they endeavoured to secure their customs by converting them into written laws; and the several bodies professing the arts and mysteries of trade and manufacture, which had hitherto been kept up by prescription only, were now strengthened by being formed into established companies. The King however reserved to himself the power of appointing the Portreve, or chief officer of the city.

The citizens soon after humbly entreated Matilda to re-establish the laws of King Edward the Confessor, which had been confirmed to them by the Conqueror's charter, and to ease them of their insupportable taxes: but instead of granting either of these requests, she, with a disdainful countenance, told them, that since they had assisted her enemy to the utmost of their power, they were to expect no favour from her.

From this haughty answer, they concluded that they had no other treatment to expect from this imperious Princess, than that of slaves. To prevent this, it was resolved, to seize her person; she however escaped; but the populace plundered her palace; after which Stephen was restored, and she compelled to fly the kingdom.

In the year 1197, the citizens purchased of King Richard a charter, for 15,000 marks, by which they were impowered to remove all wears out of the river Thames, and the King resigned all his right to the annual duties arising from them. This is the first charter from which the city claims its jurisdiction and conservacy of that river.

In the next reign the citizens obtained several charters from King John, by which this and all their other privileges were confirmed: and in the year 1207, Henry Fitz-Alwyn took the title of Mayor, instead of Custos and Bailiff, under which names he had held that dignity for twenty years successively.

In the year 1211, the citizens, as an additional security, began to encompass the wall with a deep ditch 200 feet wide; a work in which a vast number of hands was employed. The same year London bridge was consumed by a dreadful fire.

In this reign the forest of Middlesex being disforested, the citizens obtained an opportunity of purchasing land, and building houses upon it, by which the suburbs of the city were greatly increased, and soon enlarged to a considerable extent without the walls, though all the ground within them was far from being converted into regular streets.

It will not be unentertaining if we give a description of the city as it appeared about this time. The houses were mostly built of wood, and thatched with straw or reeds, which was the occasion of very frequent fires; and the city was supplied with water by men who brought it in carriages from the Thames, and from the brooks which ran through many of the principal streets. Thus the river of Wells, so called from many springs or wells uniting to supply its stream, arose in the north west part of the city, and ran into Fleet Ditch, at the bottom of Holborn hill. This small river, or brook, supplied several water mills, and at length from thence obtained the name of Turnmill Brook.

The Olborn, or Holborn, which arose where Middle row now stands, and flowed down the hill, also fell into Fleet Ditch; and a few houses on its banks were called a village, and distinguished by the name of this rivulet. While the Fleet ran down Fleet street, and also fell into Fleet Ditch.

Wall brook entered the city through the wall between Bishopsgate and Moorgate, and after many turnings emptied itself into the Thames at Dowgate.

The brook Langbourn rose near the east end of Fenchurch street, where mixing with the soil, it rendered it marshy; but ran from thence with a swift current to Sherborne lane, and then dividing into several rills, was lost in the Wall brook on Dowgate hill.

The springs from whence all these streams arose were pretty numerous, and several of them at their source formed deep ponds; particularly there was a large pond in Smithfield, supplied by its own spring; and near Cripplegate a deep and dangerous pool, formed by Crowder's Well.

At length the citizens being deprived of their usual supplies of water from the above brooks, by the encroachments of buildings, and other ways, water was brought from six springs in the town of Tyburn, by a leaden pipe of a six-inch bore, which was made to supply leaden cisterns castellated with stone. The first and largest of these conduits was erected in West-cheap, in the year 1285, and afterwards the number of these conduits were increased to about twenty. Mr. Stow informs us, that it was customary for the Lord Mayor, accompanied by the Aldermen, and principal citizens on horseback, to visit the heads from whence the conduits were supplied, on the 18th of September, when they hunted a hare before dinner, and a fox after it, in the fields beyond St. Giles's.

About this time the city was divided into twenty four wards, under the government of the Aldermen; and each ward chose some of the inhabitants as Common Council men, who were sworn into their office; these were to be consulted by the Aldermen, and their advice followed, in all public affairs relating to the city.

In the year 1348, the city was visited by a most terrible pestilence, which continued to rage till the church yards were found not capacious enough to receive the bodies. This induced several persons to purchase ground to supply that defect; and in one of these burying grounds, bought by Sir Walter Manny, were interred the next year 50,000 persons; an amazing number, considering the small extent of this metropolis at that time: by this dreadful pestilence 100,000 persons are said to have died in this city. This is a very convincing proof that London was at that time extremely populous.

This prodigious mob entered Southwark on the 10th of June 1381, set at liberty the prisoners in the King's Bench and Marshalsea prisons, and levelled to the ground the houses of all lawyers and questmen, and while one party went to Lambeth, where they burnt the archiepiscopal palace, with the rich furniture, books and registers, another destroyed the common stews along the bankside, then kept by Flemish bawds, who farmed them of the city.

In this dreadful confusion, the Lord Mayor caused the bridge gate to be shut, and fortified; but the next day they were admitted into the city, and the shambles and wine cellars set open for their accommodation. Being now joined by the city rabble, they hasted to the Savoy, the Duke of Lancaster's palace, which was the most magnificent edifice in the kingdom, and setting fire to it, caused proclamation to be made, that none should appropriate any thing to his own use, upon pain of death. They then ran to the Temple, which at that time belonged to the Lord High Treasurer; that edifice they also burnt, with all the records in Chancery, and the books and papers belonging to the students of the law; and all the inns of court they served in the same manner.

After this, dividing themselves into three bodies, one proceeded to the rich priory of St. John of Jerusalem, near Smithfield, which they likewise burnt; and then marching to the stately mansion house at Highbury, beyond Islington, set fire to that edifice, through hatred to Sir Robert Hales, the High Treasurer, who was prior of the one, and proprietor of the other.

The second division marched to the Tower, which they entered, notwithstanding its being guarded by six hundred men at arms, and the same number of archers, and there seizing Simon Sudbury, Archbishop of Canterbury, and the above Sir Robert Hales, caused them both to be beheaded on Tower hill.

The third division, which were the Essex party, proceeded to Mile-end, where being met by the King, who agreed to all their demands, they the same day dispersed, and returned home.

Wat Tyler, with the rest of his desperate crew, however, continued committing the greatest disorders in London and Westminster, and, under the plausible pretence of reforming public abuses, they set open the prisons of the Fleet and Newgate, murdered many of the most eminent citizens, and dragging the Flemish merchants from the churches, where they had fled for refuge, beheaded them in the streets. Nor did their monstrous cruelty stop here; for they proceeded murdering and burning in a most horrid manner in many parts of the city; and not only made proclamation for the beheading of all lawyers, and persons concerned in the Exchequer, but even of all who were able to write.

At length King Richard, encouraged by his success at Mile-end, sent to let Wat Tyler know that he would have a conference with him in Smithfield, upon which that rebel marched slowly thither, at the head of his forces; but no sooner saw the King, than setting spurs to his horse, he boldly rode up to his Majesty, leaving all his companions behind. His behaviour and proposals were equally brutish and absurd, for he would be satisfied with nothing less than a commission to behead all lawyers, and the abolition of all the ancient laws of the kingdom; at which, William Walworth, the Lord Mayor, was ordered to arrest him, when that brave magistrate gave him such a blow on the head with his sword, that he fell wounded from his horse, and was soon dispatched.

The rebels, in the mean time, observing what was done, cried out, Our Captain is murdered, let us revenge his death, and immediately bent their bows: when Richard, though but fifteen years of age, with astonishing prudence and bravery rode up to them, crying, "My friends, will you kill your King? be not troubled for the loss of your leader. I will be your captain, and grant what you desire." Upon which they changed their resolution, and marched under his conduct to St. George's Fields, where finding a thousand citizens completely armed, they were struck with such an amazing panic, that, throwing down their arms, they begged for mercy, which being granted, they immediately dispersed.

Several writers ascribe to the action of this day, the addition of the dagger to the arms of the city, in remembrance of the good service done by them, and particularly by the Lord Mayor.

This, and other rebellions, being suppressed, King Richard, in the year 1390, appointed a great tournament to be held in Smithfield, on the Sunday after Michaelmas; and having caused it to be proclaimed in all the principal courts of Europe, several princes and noblemen from Germany, France, the Netherlands, and other countries, came to distinguish themselves by their courage and military skill. On the day appointed, which was Sunday in the afternoon, a pompous cavalcade of sixty ladies set out from the Tower, all richly dressed, and mounted on fine horses, each leading an armed Knight by a silver chain, attended by their Esquires, who passing through Cheapside proceeded to Smithfield, where the justs continued four days, in the presence of the King, the Queen, and the whole court; his Majesty himself giving proofs of his skill and dexterity on the second day. During the whole time open house was kept at the King's expence, at the Bishop of London's palace, for the entertainment of all persons of distinction, and every night the diversions concluded with a ball.

Two years after, the city refusing to lend the King a sum of money, and some of the citizens beating and abusing a Lombard merchant, for offering to advance the sum required, the King was so exasperated, that he sent for the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, Sheriffs, and twenty four of the principal commoners of the city, to attend him at Nottingham, which having done, the Mayor was committed prisoner to Windsor castle, and the rest to other prisons. A commission, under the great seal, was then granted to the Dukes of York and Gloucester, the King's uncles, to enquire into that and other offences, of which the above persons being found guilty, they were not only fined 3000 marks, but the liberties of the city were seized; the Mayor was degraded from his office, and a Custos appointed in his room; the Sheriffs were also degraded, and others chosen; and, by the King's precept, seventeen persons were appointed Aldermen, during the royal pleasure. As a farther mortification to the city, the King not only withdrew, with the nobility, to York, but removed the courts of justice to that city.

However, upon payment of the fine of 3000 marks, all the city liberties were restored, except the privilege of chusing her own Mayor. And the King, returning to London, was met at Shene, or Richmond Heath, by four hundred citizens on horseback, dressed in a rich uniform, with the Recorder at their head, who made a speech, in which he humbly begged pardon for their past offences, and earnestly entreated his Majesty to honour the Chamber of London with his presence; to which he consenting, they attended him to St. George's church in Southwark, where he was received by a solemn procession of the clergy, and five hundred boys in surplices, with the Bishop of London at their head. At London bridge he was presented with a fine horse, adorned with trappings of gold brocade, and his Queen with a fine pad, and very noble furniture.

Never was the city more richly embellished than on this occasion, for the citizens of all ranks strove to outvie each other, in honour of their reconciled Sovereign; the streets were lined with the city companies in their formalities, and the conduits all the while ran with variety of wines.

At the standard in Cheapside, a boy dressed in white, to represent an angel, stood in a magnificent pageant, and upon the King's approach, presented him with wine in a gold cup, and placed on his head a crown of gold, adorned with a variety of pearls and precious stones, and likewise another on the head of the Queen. After which their Majesties were conducted to their palace at Westminster, by the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and Sheriffs, who, the next day, made his Majesty a present of two silver basons gilt, with 1000 nobles of gold in each, curious pictures of the Trinity, valued at 800l. and several other valuable presents. But after all, they were obliged to pay him 10,000l. before he would restore them the right of chusing their own magistrates.

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