Read Ebook: Harold's Town and Its Vicinity Waltham Abbey Waltham Cross Cheshunt and High Beech Epping Forest by Bunting Freeman Branfill J A C John Arthur Capel Photographer

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The Abbey Church.

From the Abbey fields, the finest view of Harold's noble minster is obtained, and it is with feelings of pleasant anticipation that one retraces one's steps thereto, meditating on the way upon the many strange and wondrous scenes that have been witnessed on the ground over which one passes. As the eye wanders over the beautiful lines and the massive, age-stained walls of the ancient church, the mind is impressed with its grandeur and its significance as a vast page of England's story.

The Legend of the Holy Cross.

It runs as follows: "In the tyme that Kinge Cnut reigned in Ingland theare lyved at a Place of the called comonly Lutegarsbyry, in French Montague, a simple man by occupation a carpenter and by Office Sexton of his parishe, to whom on a Night appeared a Vision of Christe Crucified commaundinge him that as sone as Day brake he should goe to the parishe priest and with him accompanied by his parishioners in solemne processione to go up to the Toppe of the Hyll adjoyninge and to digge wheare they should finde a Crosse, the very sign of Christes passion. This plaine Man, supposinge it a fantastical Dreame, tooke at first no great Head thereof, save that, he imparted it with his Wife who also thought it but an Illusion. Wherefore the Image appeared againe, and so griped him by the Hande that the Dynt of the Nayles remayned in his Hand to be sene the Daye followinge. Being thus pricked forwarde on he goeth to the Priest and discloseth the hole matter. He arrayeth his Parishe, displayeth his Banners, putteth on Copes and Surplas, and setteth the Carpenter foremost as his Captaine, they digge awhile and anone they find a great Marble havinge in it of black Flynt the Image of the Crucifixe so artificially wroughte as if God himselfe had framed it. Under the right Arme of this Crucifixe thear was a small Image of the same Forme, a litle Belle also, and a black Booke conteyninge the Text of the four Evangelists. All this they signified to Tovi le Prude then Lord of the Soyle, Standarde Bearer to the Kinge and his Chief Councelor, who came to the place in great Hast and by the advice of his Gents lefte the smalle cross in the Churche theare determyninge to bestow the greater in suche Place as God should appointe. Forthewithe therefore he caused to be yoked twelve red Oxen and so many white Kyne and layeth the Stone in a Wayne myning if God so wille to cary it to Canterbyrye, but the Cattle could not by any Force be compelled to draw thytherwarde. When he saw that he changed his Mynde and bad theim dryve toward his House at Readinge whearin he had great Delighte, but still the Wayne stode immoveable notwithstandinge that the Oxen did thear best. At the Lengthe he remembered a small House that he had begone to buyld at Waltham for his Disporte and commanded them to make thytherward. Which words he had no soner spoken but the Wayne of itselfe moved. Now in the way many weare healed of many Infirmities; amongste the whiche threscore sixe Parsons' vowed their labour towarde the Conveiance of this Crosse, and weare the first Founders of Waltham Towne wheare was nothing before but only a simple House for this Tovi to repose himself at when he came thyther to hunte notwithstandinge that he had thereby divers Landes, as Enfield, Edelmetun, Cetrehunt, Myms, and the hole Baronie that Goffrey of Maundville the first of that name had. Now when the Crosse was broughte thyther, Tovi commaunded it to be set up, and while one by Chaunce perced it with a Nayle the Blood issued out of the Flinte in great Abundance. Whereat Tovi beinge greatly amazed, fel downe and worshipped it promiseth before it to manumittee his Bondmen to bestow possession on such as should deserve it."

The cross gave its name to the place, and over a long series of years attracted crowds of the devote, the maimed, and diseased to the place. In 1192 the cross was covered with silver, but the figure of Christ was left untouched by reason, it is surmised, of a remarkable incident that had happened a few years previously. On that occasion, the crucifix being under repair, Robert the Goldsmith, of St. Albans, removed the circlet round the thigh, when all present were stricken blind for a considerable time.

Harold's Minster.

Harold's church was splendidly adorned, in a manner that suggests, as the late Bishop Stubbs observes, that the founder had been influenced by Eastern art. Brazen plates, gilt, were spread over the walls, the capitals and bases of the massive pillars were curiously carved and wreathed with the gilded metal; the altar was enriched with elaborate ornaments, the furniture, reliquaries, and vestments were provided on a liberal scale. Numerous relics, in addition to the miraculous crucifix, formed part of the endowment. The consecration of the church probably took place on May 3, 1060, the Feast of the Invention of the Holy Cross, which became one of the fair days under the charter of Matilda. Kinsinge, Archbishop of York, performed the ceremony of consecration, assisted by most of the English bishops. King Edward and his queen Edith, sister of Harold, and the flower of the nobility, were present.

It was here that, scarce six years later, Harold, on his return from Stamford Bridge, had news of the Norman invasion. He stayed for the night at his mansion in the park at Nazeing, still called Harold's Park, and on the morrow offered up prayers for his success in the Abbey. It is recorded that the figure of the Saviour on the wondrous crucifix bowed the head as if to express sorrow for his inevitable fate. He set out for Senlac accompanied by two of the canons, who, if the omen were fulfilled, were bidden to bring back with them the body of the founder. Harold's war-cry was "Holy Rood." The canons, true to their trust, recovered the king's body, by the aid of Harold's old love, Editha the "Swan-necked," and brought it to Waltham with all possible honours. Here the remains were interred, being translated from time to time as alterations and additions to the church necessitated , finding a final resting place near the great altar, about 140 feet from the present east end of the church. Here a most beautiful and imposing tomb was erected, but all that remains of this is a curious piece of carved ironstone representing the face of a warrior, which, after many vicissitudes, including its use as a fountain ornament, was returned to the possession of the church a few years ago, and now reposes on the tomb of Robert Smith in the chancel.

To the antiquary, the student, and the lover of all that is beautiful in architecture, the ancient minster offers a boundless store of interest. In the course of his scholarly observations upon the architecture and history of the abbey church the late Professor Freeman says: "Barbarous mutilations and hardly less barbarous additions have entirely destroyed its character, as seen from without, and even within, both mediaeval alterations of the strangest kind and the accumulated enormities of more recent days have gone far to ruin the general effect of the original building. Still a large portion of the original interior remains untouched; an interior deserving attentive study as one of the noblest specimens of Northern Romanesque, and invested with a yet higher interest if we may regard it as called into being by the taste and bounty of the last of our native kings."

The noble edifice was cruciform in plan, with a nave and aisles , choir, and central tower. The spring of one of the great arches upon which this latter stood, is plainly visible at the present east end. This tower fell in 1552, doubtless owing to the destruction of the choir, and the present western tower was erected about five years later out of the fragments. The nave consists of seven bays, and is 109 feet long from east to west, by 55 feet wide, and from the floor to the beautifully painted ceiling, the work of Sir E. J. Poynter, is a height of 52 feet. Upon the great pillars that support the arches will be noticed the spiral and chevron indenting, originally filled with chased and gilt metal. In some places the rivet holes are still discernible. The aisles were originally vaulted, and the triforium passage above was lighted by the circular windows that will be noticed. There are three tiers of arches: the nave or arcade, the triforium, and the clerestory. The Rev. J. H. Stamp, in his excellent little history of Waltham, says of the plan and design of the church that whilst the cruciform plan was significant of Christ crucified, the twelve pillars represented the apostles, and the three tiers of arches the Holy Trinity.

The wonderful grandeur and nobility of the interior can well be appreciated by standing just within the tower and viewing the "long-drawn aisles" through the great western arch. This arch formed part of the scheme of restoration and rebuilding which took place at the latter end of the thirteenth century, when the original Norman doorway was removed and a grand Decorated west front substituted. This had two turrets on each side, terminating in octagonal pinnacles of fine proportions and design, and a beautiful Decorated window appears to have been inserted over the arch. Unfortunately, the present tower obscures much of this thirteenth century work. With this scheme of rebuilding, which was instigated by Abbot Reginald and carried out by his successors, Abbots Hugh and Robert, is associated a curious and unfortunate defacement or destruction of a portion of the beautiful Norman arcading. There will be noticed on either side of the church, near the west end, a high Gothic arch, sadly out of harmony with the remaining arcading. It is said that the architect who was first engaged upon the restoration work was demented, and set about transforming the architectural character of the church. He removed the elegant filling-in of the triforium and cut away the lower Norman arches, and after having thus mutilated two tiers of arches on each side, began upon the third tier on the north side, but was happily stopped in his crazy efforts by the interference of the abbot, and his peremptory dismissal. It is to his successor that we owe the beautiful western doorway and front. This restoration scheme also included the adornment of the interior with beautiful frescoes, signs of which are still slightly visible on one or two of the arches.

Relics and Monuments.

Within the tower of the church are preserved the old stocks and whipping-post, together with the pillory, which formerly stood on the site now occupied by the new municipal buildings. In the vestry are also preserved a number of interesting relics, including a pilgrim's bottle and the massive blade of a battle-axe which, tradition avers, was Harold's.

There are many monuments and numerous interesting tablets and memorials.

Of the monuments the most noticeable is the tomb of Sir Edward Denny and his wife Margaret, in the chancel. The knight is represented in armour lying on his left side, the figure of his wife reclining below; their ten children are carved in relief, in attitudes of prayer, upon the panel beneath. This Edward Denny was the comrade of Spenser, the poet, and Sir Philip Sidney, and the captor of the rebel Earl of Desmond.

Near by stands the effigy of Lady Elizabeth Greville, first cousin to Lady Jane Grey, widow of Henry Denny and wife of Sir Edward Greville, third son of the ancestor of the present Earl of Warwick. This effigy is all that remains of an elegant tomb of alabaster, which formerly stood to the north of the altar.

There are three mural brasses on the south wall, one being to the memory of Edward Stacey, one of the lay pensioners of the monastery at the time of the Dissolution, and another to Thomas Colte, second son of Sir John Colte, of Nether Hall, Roydon.

The remains of the old choir screen, a beautiful example of carpentry and carving; the ancient Purbeck marble font; the handsome reredos, and the fine rose window above; the marks of the chain that once held the great Bible, on one of the pillars, and many other features are here to interest the visitor. The handsome stained glass in the Rose window, depicting the Creation, and the three lights under the arch were designed by the late Sir Edward Burne-Jones.

Nor must the beautiful Lady Chapel be forgotten. This dates its foundation from 1316, and is by some regarded as one of the richest specimens of mediaeval architecture in England. Its window tracery is certainly very elegant, though this has undergone considerable restoration. The interior was originally adorned with statuary and frescoes, a painting of the Last Judgment occupying the east wall. Traces of this ancient and curious representation are still discernible. The remains of the old piscina are also still in existence. Of the crypt beneath, Thomas Fuller, who, by the way, was for many years incumbent here, quaintly speaks as being "the finest that I ever saw."

The greatness of the Abbey.

Having feasted the eye and the mind on the many beautiful and interesting features of the ancient fane, one may rest beneath the aged elm tree in the churchyard, and meditate upon the circumstance that this magnificent edifice is but a third portion of Harold's minster, and that only a fragment of the old monastery which grew up around it in mediaeval times, forming a vast congregation of stately buildings, now remains; that just as the physical characteristics of the Abbey and its minster were vast and important, so were its landed possessions, which stretched out far and wide on all sides; that the immensity of its wealth was such that at the time of the Dissolution the gross revenue amounted to ?1,079 12s. 1d., representing about ?15,000 at the present day; whilst the potency of the abbots, who were mitred and sat in Parliament, was great, and the splendour of their respective establishments was upon a generous scale. Some of these abbots, of whom there were thirty in all, were great in the best sense of the word, and exercised their potency for the good of the Abbey and the community towards which they stood in the joint relation of spiritual and temporal overlords.

A Feudal Abbot.

One of these particularly was a man of vigorous character and determined spirit, who, "in asserting the rights and privileges of the monastery during his rule, came into collision with parishioners, neighbours, pope, and king." First, differences appear to have arisen between the parishioners and the abbot as to the former having right of access to the central tower and bells, which they had enjoyed under Harold's foundation. The abbot accordingly shut out the people from this and the choir by erecting a stone screen or wall immediately behind the altar of the parish church . This wall is clearly observable from the outside beneath the Rose window at the east end, and in this will be seen traces of two doorways with which it was pierced to allow the dean or parish priest to enter and minister to the people. There would seem to have been reprisals on the part of the parishioners, for a little later they disputed the abbot's rights of grazing on the marsh, and, resorting to violence, severely assaulted the keepers and killed the abbot's horses. For this the offenders suffered the double penalty of being heavily fined by the justices of the King's Bench and excommunicated by the abbot. The latter, however, did not enforce either, and forgave the erring ones. Next Abbot Simon was at war with the lord of the manor of Cheshunt, Peter, Duke of Savoy, who claimed all the land west of the main stream of the Lea--called the King's stream--whilst the abbot contended that his jurisdiction extended to the smaller stream half a mile further west. The lawsuit which ensued was, as old Fuller says, "as long lived as any in England," by reason of "the greatness of the clients"; but it was finally concluded in favour of the abbot. This occurred in 1248, and three years later the doughty abbot was setting the pope at defiance by protesting against the persecution, oppression, and robbery of the conventual churches by the bishops and legates. Twice also Abbot Simon successfully resisted the extortionate demands of the king, and stubbornly refused to enrich the royal treasury at the expense of the monastery.

I am afraid I have rather digressed from the main purpose of this little work in relating some of the deeds of this sturdy abbot, but I think the brief relation of these may be of some interest as an illustration of the social and religious conditions of Waltham in mediaeval times and of the wonderful power wielded by these old ecclesiastical potentates.

A Conventual Relic.

Now to resume the broken thread. The remaining fragment of the conventual buildings to which I have alluded above consists of a beautiful little chamber, often spoken of as "an architectural gem," which stands in the Abbey gardens. It is locally known by the undignified appellation of the "potato cellar," due to its irreverent use in modern times. It consists of a small longitudinal apartment, with a beautifully groined ceiling and quadripartite vaulting. It is 29 feet long, running north and south, and has two doorways, one of which is blocked up. It is considered to have been either the fratry or an antechamber to the abbot's mansion, in which the monks assembled preparatory to the procession to the church.

One passes from the churchyard to the market-place--another interesting corner of the old town--by an ancient lych-gate, adjacent to the Harp Inn, which is peculiarly interesting as being probably the oldest existing relic of domestic architecture directly connected with the Abbey, and has from very early times formed the main entrance to the church.

Turning sharp to the left, into Sun Street, one is soon in the old main road that runs from London, by Walthamstow, Chingford, and Sewardstone, to Nazeing, Roydon, etc. To the left, round by the New Inn, the fine old wall of the Abbey gardens comes into view, and midway along its extent will be noticed the sign of the cross and a lozenge inserted in black brick. The remains of the moat, which, with the mill stream, completely surrounded the Abbey, will also be seen.

Retracing our steps towards London, a few yards beyond the entry of Sun Street, will be noticed an old house jutting upon the street, with stucco and "roughcast" exterior, the entrance to which is by a gate in the adjoining garden wall. This was the home of John Foxe, the martyrologist, and here he wrote the famous "Book of Martyrs." It is said that Cranmer also occupied this house when resident in Waltham. Its interior presents many interesting features. In the garden is a tulip tree, which is probably a descendant of a fine specimen of this arboreal rarity, which flourished for centuries in the old Abbey gardens. This tree is said to have been one of the largest and finest of its kind in all England. Its fame is perpetuated by two finely carved chairs, made out of the wood of the old tree, which stand within the sacrarium of the Abbey church.

FROM Foxe's house it is a pleasant walk to Epping Forest and High Beech. The way is by Farm Hill to Brookside, thence sharp to the right over the bridge, and up the hill by the old windmill for a little more than half a mile, to the hamlet known as Honey lane, where the margin of the fine old forest, the heights of which will have been viewed on the way, opens out. We turn up by the covered well and trough into Honey lane itself. Those who may prefer to ensure a right direction may keep to the roadway, which strikes up the hill through the forest, and, bearing sharp to the left and right respectively, leads direct to High Beech. It is more pleasant, perhaps, to wander through the woodland, and such as would prefer to do this may strike across the plain to the left of the bridge over the stream, following the line of the watercourse, then, taking a break in the thicket that will be found, a clear way called the Verderer's Path will soon be entered. Pursuing this to the right , we come out at the top of the hill in Honey lane, near a cyclists' caution board, and the way to High Beech, the spire of the church being clearly noticeable, is then straight along the road. Many a charming peep over the Lea Valley will have been enjoyed on the way, but from High Beech Plain a panorama of superb beauty is opened out to view. Those who have hitherto regarded the home counties of Essex, Middlesex, and Herts as poor, flat, and featureless parts of our England will be agreeably surprised at the rich beauty of the landscape which this view of the Lea Valley affords.

Tennyson's home.

It was a scene that the late Lord Tennyson, who resided for some years at Beech Hill Park here, which lies a little to the west of the King's Oak Inn, loved and admired, as he also reverenced the ancient town and minster of Waltham. It was the sonorous bells of Harold's church that inspired the beautiful lines of "In Memoriam":

"Ring out, wild bells, to the wild sky."

His noble drama of "Harold," too, doubtless owes its inception to the poet's residence in and intimate connection with this locality. High Beech church lies a little beyond the King's Oak Inn and the plain; it is a modern building in the Gothic style.

From the church we retrace our steps to the inn named, and make the historic earthworks known as Ambresbury Banks or Camp our next objective. The road continues beyond the junction with Honey lane, whence we came, then bears to the right on to the Wake Arms Inn and the main Epping road, a little less than a mile along which brings us to the camp, this lying on the east side of the road. But there is a very pleasant way thither through the heart of the forest, which I will endeavour to describe. Here, however, I would suggest that all who wish to enjoy the real beauty of the forest in this way should take the precaution to carry a reliable compass, for it is very easy to become confused about the geographical circumstances of one's surroundings among the wood and thicket.

We turn off across the open plain to the right, about 300 yards beyond the King's Oak Inn, where will be found a track or walk, which at times is rather indistinct. Follow this for about half a mile, then turn sharp to the right through the glade into the valley, skirting the swamp and Wake Valley ponds on to the main road. Here we turn to the left and continue to the Wake Arms Inn. Thence the Theydon road is taken, down Jack's Hill for about half a mile, and when the Verderers' Ride is noticed on the left, this is followed to Ambresbury Banks. This route will take the wanderer through parts of the forest that are almost unfrequented, where oak and beech and hornbeam flourish in all their wild grandeur; where many of the fungi and lichens, for which the forest is so noted, will be met with, as well as many beautiful flowering plants, rare-winged insects, and most of the birds, so large and representative a number of which make their home in the forest. Nor is it at all unlikely that a herd of the forest deer will be seen, for these graceful creatures generally resort to this part. Upon the walk one's mind almost naturally reverts to the days when this 5,000 odd acres of woodland, now the "people's playground," was a mere morsel of the great forest of Waltham, an almost boundless tract of wild forest land, which formed the favourite hunting ground for the Saxon, Norman, Plantagenet, and Tudor kings.

Of Ambresbury Camp, which we have now attained, much has been said and written in dispute as to its origin. There, however, seems to be little doubt that it formed an important British earthwork, and, despite all that has been said to the contrary, it is extremely probable that it formed the final stronghold of Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni, from which she and her vast army of Britons issued forth to do battle with the Roman legions under Suetonius Paulinus, and suffered that terrible defeat of which history tells us. This is a spot, therefore, that awakens solemn thoughts.

Copt Hall and Upshire.

WALTHAM CROSS, which is not to be confounded with Waltham Holy Cross, commonly called Waltham Abbey, for whilst the latter is in Essex, the former is in Hertfordshire, and forms part of the parish of Cheshunt. To reach Waltham Cross, the visitor must retrace his steps towards the railway, and passing over this, the historic monument, which stands at the junction with the old Great North Road--is reached by a walk of five minutes' duration.

Waltham Cross has long been admired as an elegant specimen of Early English or Middle Pointed architecture. It is hexagonal in form, and consists of three handsome stages or storeys, each terminated by an embattled frieze, whilst the angles are respectively supported by a graduated buttress, ornamented with foliated finials. Within the panels of the lower storey are shields bearing the arms of England, Castile, and Leon and Poictou; whilst statues of Queen Eleanor occupy niches on the second storey.

The Four Swans Inn.

Each corner of the road that here debouches upon the main high road is occupied by an inn, that nearer London being the Falcon, and the other the Four Swans. Both are survivals of that period of prosperity when the coaches between London and Cambridge sped along the road. Whilst, however, the Falcon has been rebuilt in recent times--a work which made possible the widening of the roadway and the preservation of the Cross--the Four Swans retains very much of its old-time glory, and its sign is still stretched across the main street, forming an advertisement of such a conspicuous character as would not be admissible now-a-days. The interior of this inn possesses many of those interesting features which are generally attached to old coaching and posting houses, and in its oldest portion is a handsome Jacobean staircase. Its foundation, however, dates far beyond even coaching days, for the house originally formed part of the possessions of the Abbey, of which it was a guest house, whilst the Abbot's manorial court was held here. The oldest part of the house is that to the left of the gateway on entering, and it is highly probable that the suite of rooms in which the tenants assembled--described by Dr. Stukeley in 1752 as being "where the chimneys are"--were contained in this wing, whilst the older portion of the spacious apartment over the gateway, now used as a masonic hall, formed the abbot's court-room. At other times the place was used for the lodgement of pilgrims and similar purposes. The sign of the Four Swans, the only one that I have met with, is derived from the arms of Earl Harold, whose shield had emblazoned upon it a cross with four swans.

Theobalds.

With the Abbey, the Cross, and the Four Swans Inn we leave behind us, it may be said, associations with and monuments of mediaeval times, and enter upon the later, but no less stirring epoch of English history which is marked by the Tudor, Jacobean, and Commonwealth periods, by a visit to the historic seat of Theobalds, or Tibbles, as it is locally called. The entrance to the park is from the high road, close to Theobalds Grove Station on the Great Eastern Railway branch line to Cheshunt. As one saunters through the long leafy aisle, there comes to mind the reference to this famous seat and its locality in old Izaak Walton's famous classic, the "Complete Angler," wherein the angler, the hunter, and the falconer, each commends his recreation; Piscator avows his intention of going "this fine, fresh May morning," as far as Ware, whereupon Venator says his purpose is to "drink my morning draught at the Thatched House, Hoddesdon," and Anceps rejoins: "Sir, I shall, by your favour, bear you company as far as Theobalds, and there leave you; for then I turn up to a friend's house, who mews a hawk for me, which I now long to see." The present house of Theobalds, which is the seat of Lady Meux, is modern, having been erected in 1768, and, though large, is not beautiful. A view of the house and gardens can be obtained by taking the footpath on the left, running along the bank of the New River, the stream being widened into a lake here, and creating a very pretty feature of the Park lands.

The main entrance to the house is by the famous Temple Bar, which stands a little further along the drive from which the path has been taken. A more beautiful setting for Wren's wonderful gateway it would scarcely be possible to conceive or create, and I know not another gateway entrance to a private park or domain throughout the country that is more beautiful than this. The nobility of its lines, the grandeur of the design, and the beauty of the stone are here all thrown into wonderful relief by the rich green of the foliage which forms the setting of the gate. One cannot help wondering what Dr. Johnson, or Sir Joshua Reynolds, or Charles Lamb, to all of whom the old gate that marked the western boundary of the city was familiar, would have said if they could have seen it transported to its present position. They were all ardent lovers of the town, and would certainly have lamented its loss from their Fleet Street. The Doctor would probably have said, "Sir! it is a vile outrage upon the City of London." Yet I think their artistic perceptions would have compelled them to admit that its new home endowed it with a grandeur that it never before possessed.

A contemporary biographer of Cecil has pertinently observed, "He buylt three houses; one in London for necessity, another at Burghley, of computency for the mansion of his Barony, and another at Waltham for his younger sonne, which at the first he meant but for a little pile, as I have hard him saie, but after he came to enterteyne the Quene so often there he was inforced to enlarge it, rather for the Quene and her greate traine and to sette poore on worke, than for pompe or glory, for he ever said it wold be to big for the smalle living he cold leave his sonne." The same author also says Cecil "greatlie delighted in making gardens, fountaines, and walkes, which at Theobalds were perfected most costly, bewtyfully and pleasauntly, while one might walk twoe myle in the walkes before he came to their ends."

Norden has remarked of Cecil's new house: "To speake of the state and beauty thereof at large as it deserveth for curious Buildings, delightfull walkes and pleasaunt conceits within and without and other Thinges very glorious and elegant to be seene, would challenge a great portion of this little treatise, and therefore leaste I should come short of that one commendation that it deserveth, I leave it as indeede it is, a princely seate."

Vallens, in his "Tale of Two Swannes" also pays a graceful tribute to Cecil and old Theobalds in the following lines:

"Now see these Swannes, the new and worthy seate Of famous Cecil, tresorer of the land, Whose wisdome, counsell, skill of princes' state The world admires; then Swannes may do the same: The house it selfe doth shewe the owner's wit, And may for beautie, state and every thing, Compared be with most within the land."

So delighted was King Jamie with Theobalds and the hunting afforded by its domain, as well as in the adjoining Enfield Chase and Waltham Forest, that he prevailed upon the noble owner to exchange it for Hatfield, and the latter has since that time remained the home of the Cecils. The king enlarged the park of Theobalds, which he enclosed with a wall ten miles in circumference. He passed nearly all his leisure here, and died at Theobalds on March 25, 1625.

OLD Cheshunt village is a little less than a mile north of Theobalds by the road that turns up the hill, opposite Temple Bar, to Bury Green, thence leaving the cemetery on the left. A pleasant old-fashioned inn, where the magisterial business was dispensed for many years, and a small cluster of houses form the old village to-day, with Cheshunt College, a foundation by Selina Countess of Huntingdon, for the training of Nonconformist ministers, hard by, and the fine old parish church reposing in its ample "God's Acre," opposite. But in quite recent times the builder has been busy in this locality, and at the bottom of the village a good many houses of the suburban villa type have been erected. The most populous part of Cheshunt has grown up along either side of the high road, here known as Cheshunt Street, nearly half a mile distant, eastward, leaving the old village isolated, as it were. But it was here that stood the fine old mansions for which the parish was once famed, grouped around and about the church. Of these more presently. Meantime a walk may profitably be taken along Church Gate, whence proceeding between some handsome old sixteenth century houses, with overhanging fronts, one steps into a street or lane that wears a most charming air of antiquity. At the bottom is the old Free school, founded by Robert Dewhurst in 1640, the building forming an interesting example of the domestic Tudor-Jacobean transition style.

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