Read Ebook: How to Make Draperies by Singer Sewing Machine Company

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Curtain and drapery rods, brackets and valance boards should be mounted securely to the wall to support heavy draperies. This can be a problem unless you use the right screws or bolts. There is a correct screw and bolt available for every type of wall--brick, concrete or plaster walls.

Draperies or over curtains are made of medium weight or heavy fabrics. They may be unlined, lined or lined and interlined, depending on the fabric and its treatment--whether formal or informal.

There are three accepted lengths for draperies--to the window sill--to the bottom of the window apron--or to the floor. Floor length is most generally used, and for very formal treatments, the drapery is often made long enough to crush on the floor. Draperies hang straight from the rod to the floor. If they meet at the top center, they may be draped to either side and held with ornamental tie-backs or those made of the same material.

When the type and design of draperies have been decided upon and the right type of rods have been mounted, then measurements for draperies can be taken.

Measure from the top of the rod down for length desired. Then add to length measurement the allowance for top and bottom hems. Review chapter on "Fabrics" before cutting lengths for draperies.

Unlined Draperies

These draperies are informal in treatment and are usually made of light or medium weight fabrics. Most any type of top finish, shirring or pleats is suitable. A plain valance or cornice board may be used. For a pleated heading, allow 5 1/2 ? at the top for heading and 5 1/2 ? at the bottom for a 2 1/2 ? double hem. Cut strips of crinoline or lawn for stiffening 4? wide and 3? shorter than the width of each drapery length. Pin strip to underside of heading 1/2 ? from the top, starting 1 1/2 ? from the edge. Stitch along lower edge of strip, then turn top edge of fabric over stiffening 1/2 ? and stitch. Turn top hem to underside along edge of stiffening. Press and pin in place.

Side hems may be put in by hand, machine stitched or blind stitched. For hand stitching or straight machine stitching, turn edge 1/2 ? to underside; then turn 1? for hem. Pin hem in place for stitching.

To blind-stitch hem, using the Zigzag Sewing Machine or the Zigzag Attachment, pin hem in place; then run a row of hand basting 1/4 ? from turned edge. With wrong side of drapery up, turn hem under to right side, exposing the 1/4 ? edge. Turn 2 1/2 ? double hem at the bottom and finish by hand or machine stitch.

STIFFENING 1 1/2 ? BOTH SIDES FOR HEMS UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL

If 1? double side hems are used, cut stiffening 4? shorter than the width of each drapery length. When using a heading with woven-in pockets for pleater pins, allow 2? at the top for heading and seam. Pin right side of heading to right side of drapery ?/??? below edge across the top. Consider the ?return? of the drapery at each side, and position woven-in pockets so that the pleat comes at the turn of the rod. Stitch, taking 1/2 ? seam; then turn heading to underside. Press and stitch 1/4 ? from the lower edge of the heading.

SLOTTED SIDE OF PLEAT TAPE

Lined Draperies

Draperies are lined for the protection of the fabric. Linings also give weight to the draperies, causing them to hang in deeper folds. A sun-fast white, soft gray or cream colored sateen is generally used as the lining fabric.

Linings, just as drapery fabrics, must be cut straight with the crosswise and lengthwise grains.

Always start with a straight crosswise edge. This is obtained by drawing a crosswise thread and cutting on drawn thread. If fabric slopes up on one edge, then it should be straightened before pieces are cut.

Very often, when fabrics are rolled on the boards at the mills, the fabric is rolled more tightly on one end than at the other, drawing the crosswise threads in a diagonal line. This is apt to be true in loosely woven fabrics and particularly lining fabric.

To straighten fabric, first remove selvages, pull fabric gently but effectively, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner; then alternate. Grasp the fabric so that you will neither injure nor wrinkle it. Press before seaming.

Lining should be cut to allow for a 2? hem at the bottom and a 1/2 ? seam across the top and sides.

To join lining, turn top edge of lining to underside 1/2 ? and press. Pin lining and drapery together, starting 7 1/2 ? from the top. Stitch from top of lining down to 4 1/2 ? of lower edge of lining, taking a 1/2 ? seam. Back-stitch at the beginning and end of seam. Press seam as stitched; then clip seam every 3? or 4?. Press the seam open. Pin, from hem to hem, a 4? wide strip of stiffening to underside across the top. Stitch and press.

RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL 7 1/2 ? LINING

STIFFENING 1 1/2 ? FOR HEM BOTH SIDES UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL

Turn drapery right side out and adjust hems on either side. Be sure seams are spread open. Press and pin. Turn top hem to underside. Pin and press. Turn and miter side hem. Cut out top hem even with stiffening and within 1? of the top. Pin lining to hem, overlapping lower edge 1/2 ?. Side hem and mitered corner above the lining should be slip-stitched by hand; then slip-stitch lining to top hem. Press. Allow draperies to hang for 2 or 3 days before putting in lower hems. Then adjust length of drapery so that it clears the rug or floor. Turn edge under 1/2 ?; then turn hem width. If an allowance is made for a double hem, first turn to underside one-half the width allowed, then turn again the same width, enclosing first turn. Slip-stitch hem by hand or stitch by machine. The lining hem overlaps the drapery hem approximately 1?. Allowance is made for a 2? hem with 1/2 ? for seam. The lining hem hangs free of the curtain and is held in position with french tacks spaced about 12? apart. To french tack, take 3 or 4 stitches first at top of drapery hem, then lining hem, then drapery hem, etc., leaving a 1/2 ? or 3/4 ? length between. Blanket stitch over the full length of these strands of thread. Fasten thread at end of tack. Draperies should be anchored at top of return and lower side hems.

LINING TURNED BACK

LINING

LINING

It is a good idea to tack the side hems along stitching line. This prevents them from slipping and hems always appear sharper. Using matching thread and working from the underside, insert needle through the seam down through to the right side, picking up a thread or two of the fabric. Then bring needle back up through the seam. Insert needle at the same point and direct needle along the seam between the hem a distance of 1?. Bring needle up through seam; then direct needle down through seam at same point, picking up two or three threads, and then up through seam again. Continue this tacking the length of the hem.

Drapery lined to top

There are times that draperies are lined to the top instead of using a hem, particularly when a valance or cornice board is used. To the length measurement, add 1 1/2 ? at the top for heading and seam. Cut lining in proportion. Stitch lining and drapery lengths together, bringing edges even at the top. Clip seam and press open. Cut stiffening the length of drapery width. Pin and stitch stiffening across the top, taking 1/2 ? seam. Turn drapery right side out, enclosing heading. Press top and side hems. Finish hems at the bottom the same as for lined draperies.

Interlined Draperies

Draperies are often interlined, particularly in very formal rooms, or when the character of the material is such that the extra weight is necessary for its protection. Interlining also adds to the draping quality and elegance of the fabric.

For an interlining fabric, use good quality cotton flannel. Cut interlining the exact measurements of draperies when finished; that is, if draperies have 1 1/2 ? hems on each side and 3? hems, top and bottom, then cut interlining 3? narrower and 6? shorter than drapery fabric. Spread material right side down.

UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL INTERLINING

Fold interlining through lengthwise center. Place fold on exact center of drapery fabric and tack together loosely. Take a stitch in the drapery; bring needle up through fold of interlining and leave a loop. Space about 6?; take a stitch in drapery, then interlining, then drapery, etc. Do not pull thread taut. When row is finished, fold interlining halfway between center and edge on both sides and tack in the same manner, making three rows of vertical tacking.

Turn side hems back over interlining. Pin and baste. Then turn top and bottom hems. Pin and baste. Miter hems at corners. All hems may be catch-stitched to the interlining, and the lining slip-stitched to top and side hems. Linings may also be joined by machine. Turn hem and baste; then pin lining to drapery and stitch, taking 1/2 ? seam. Press seam as stitched. Then clip and press seam open the same as for all lined curtains and draperies.

When lining is joined to drapery by machine, tack interlining and lining together along seam. Take stitch in seam, then in interlining. Space stitching 3? or 4? apart. Do not draw thread taut. Turn top and bottom hems and catch-stitch. Pin lining to hem across the top and slip-stitch. Turn hem in lining and stitch. Allowance should be made for a 2? hem, overlapping the hem in drapery approximately 1?. Use french tacks between lining hem and drapery to hold lining in place. Use either 'sew-on' or 'pin-on' weight at bottom of side hems.

The use of pleats is one of the most effective ways of controlling the fullness of a drapery that is made to hang in balanced, graceful folds. The types most generally used are the pinch pleat, the French pleat, the box pleat and the cartridge pleat.

Pleats should be made in groups of uneven numbers, 5-7-9, or as many as are required to take up the amount allowed for fullness. For very sheer fabrics, the allowance for fullness should be 3 times the width of the window or space to be covered. To figure the spacings and amount to be taken up in pleats, take the measurement of the space to be covered plus the return; that is, the distance from turn of rod to the wall or the bracket supporting the rod on either end, plus the overlap at the center when curtains are drawn together. The width allowed for draperies minus these three measurements is to be taken up in pleats.

The fullness of each type of pleat and space between depends on the weight of the material and amount allowed for fullness of the curtain.

Please Note--3? for return is used as an example. The return can be 4? or 5?, depending on type of rod or bracket. Always measure the return.

Steps to Pleats

Always measure and mark the exact position and width for all pleats and spacings before stitching.

Measure the width of the return from outer edge. Then measure for the first pleat at the curve of the rod. Place second pleat on opposite side 2? from center edge. The third pleat is placed at the exact center between the first and second pleat. The remaining number of pleats required is evenly spaced between the 1st and 3rd and between the 2nd and 3rd pleats. To form pleats, bring markings for pleats together. Pin; then stitch from top to 3/4 ? below the heading, reversing the stitch at either end.

Doors or Windows Opening Out

Box Pleats, extending above the heading to form a loop, make an interesting treatment for unlined curtains draping a French window or door that opens out.

Draperies hang from a rod drawn through the loops. Fabrics, such as Fortisan blends, antique satin, taffetas and sheer linens are suitable for these curtains.

Measure from top of rod to floor for length. Add 9 1/2 ? at top for seam, loops, and facing and 6? for a 3? double bottom hem. Allow 3 times the width of space to be covered for fullness.

Tie-Backs

Fabric tie-backs for draperies are usually tailored, straight or shaped bands which match or harmonize with the drapery in color and design. The fullness of the drapery determines the length of the tie-back. To estimate length, loop a strip of material around the drapery, drawing it back to side of window for the best effect. Lengths may vary from 18? to 24? and can be 2 1/2 ? or more in width. They are usually lined or faced and interlined. Use a stiffening of heavy muslin or crinoline in a shaped band. For shaped band, cut a paper pattern about 3? or 4? wide in the center, tapering to 2? or 2 1/2 ? at the end as illustrated. Cut fabric, lining and stiffening the same as pattern, allowing for a 3/8 ? seam on all edges.

Pin stiffening to underside of band, and lining to right side of material--right sides together. Stitch, leaving an opening of 3? or 4? for turning.

Trim stiffening to stitching line and blend edge of lining. Press. Turn band right side out and press. Slip-stitch lining to band at opening.

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