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Ebook has 777 lines and 157557 words, and 16 pages
GRANADA.
PAGE
Lodgings at the Alhambra.--Restoration.--Webs of Falsehood.--The Sierra Nevada Mountains.--Fruits.--Progress of the Peasantry.--The Moors.--Adam's Visit to Spain.--Expulsion of the Moors.--Decline of the Empire.-- Railroads.--Mines.--Early Settlers.--Iberians.--Phoenicians.--Goths.--Moors.-- Waning of the Crescent.--Capture of Cordova.--Flight of the last Moorish King
OUT OF FRANCE INTO SPAIN.--THE BASQUE PROVINCES.
Biarritz.--Chateau Eugenie.--Dangerous Coast.--Breakwater.--The Virgin's Partiality.--Bathing Grounds.--Couriers.--Antanazio.--His Honesty and Zeal.--Crossing the Boundary.--Island of Conference.--Spanish Courtesy.-- The Basque Provinces.--Peculiar Customs.--Ancestry.--The Language.-- Spanish Stupidity.--La Fayette.--St. Sebastian.--Duke of Wellington's Sack of the City.--Bull-ring.--Likeness of the Country to Switzerland.-- Physique of the Inhabitants.--Productions.--Industries.--Primogeniture.-- Tolasa.--Vittoria.--Wellington's Victory.--Miranda.--Roderick, the last King of the Goths
BURGOS.--THE ESCORIAL.
MADRID.--A SABBATH AND A CARNIVAL.
MADRID.--PALACE.--BANK.--PICTURE-GALLERY.
TOLEDO.--ITS FLEAS, LANDLORDS, ANTIQUITIES, AND LUNATICS.
Progress.--Hotel Lino.--The wicked Flea.--Easy Manners.--Breakfast.--Model Landlord and Waiters.--Toledo Butter.--City set on a Hill.--Monuments of departed Peoples.--Romance.--Architecture.--Oldest City in the World.-- Mythic Founders.--Perfidy of Roderick.--Reign of the Archbishops.-- Decline of Power and Glory.--Cathedral.--Descent of the Virgin.--A fair Penitent.--Orthodoxy of the Priesthood.--Burning of the Missals.--The Muzarabe.--The dead Lion better than a living Dog.--Eloquent Epitaph.-- Honors paid the Virgin.--The Alcazar.--Derivation of Mango.--Spanish Pride.--Peacocks.--Foreign Impressions.--Moorish Gates.--San Juan de los Reyes.--Thank-offerings.--St. Florinde.--Cave of Hercules.--Legend of the Cid.--Caf?.--Toledo Blades.--Virtues of the Tagus.--Sword of Boabdil.-- Lunatic Asylum.--Don Quixote.--Crazy Editors.--Statistics.--Causes of Insanity.--Spanish Slowness and Temperance.--Sophomores
LA MANCHA.--ANDALUSIA.
Smoking.--Cigarettes at Dinner.--Taking Sanctuary.--Retort.--Tobacco Culture.--Cuban Monopoly.--Chewing tabooed.--Early Smoking.--Children and Ladies.--Tobacco Factory.--Cigareras.--Flavored Cigars.--Potash.--Soda.-- Opium.--Intemperate Clergyman.--La Mancha.--Don Quixote.--Treeless Landscape.--Sheep.--Corn.--Primitive Ploughing.--Husbandry.-- Primogeniture.--Lands of Church and Crown.--Agricultural Schools.-- Periodicals.--Sierra Morena Mountains.--Cautious Engineer.--Manjibar.-- Pickled Chicken.--Moving on.--Perfumes of Arabia.--Resting-place.-- Transatlantic Indigestion.--Andalusia.--Ignorance and Crime.--Government Education.--Statistics.--Salamanca.--Influence of Climate.--Population.-- The Aloe and Olive.--Oranges and Lemons.--Hills of Andalusia.--Sheep
CORDOVA.
Cleanliness.--Paved Streets.--Bridge over the Guadalquiver.--Age of the City.--Wholesale Butchery.--Government.--Mosques.--Baths.--Inns.--Schools.-- Library.--Rural F?te.--Departed Glory.--Palace of Abdurhama.--Beautiful Evergreens.--Fruits.--Interior of an Ancient House.--Moorish Style.-- Cathedral.--Converted Mosque.--Gate of Pardon.--Court-yard.--Orange Grove.--Fountains.--Gold Fish.--Elders in the Gate.--The Mecca of Europe.-- Holy Shrine.--Symbolism.--Indulgences.--Bronze Ornaments.--Inscription in Gothic and Arabic.--Dimensions.--Precious Stones.--The Mihrab.--The Kalif's Oratory.--Mosaics.--Devout Mussulmans.--Chapels.--Etching on Stone.--Impressive Monuments
SEVILLE, ITS CATHEDRAL AND BULL-FIGHTS.
SEVILLE.
La Caridad.--Art Treasures.--St. John.--Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes.-- Moses striking the Rock.--Recovery of Pictures at Waterloo.--French Thieves.--Venus de Medici.--Thoughtful Amateur.--Museum Fees.--Guardian Angels of Seville.--Martyrdom.--Murillo's Pages of the Gospel.--Old Masters.--Decay of Art.--Bull-fighting.--The Season.--Exaggeration.-- Curious Development.--Effect on the National Character.--Street-plays.-- Feats.--Demoralization.--Spanish Pride.--Morality.--Contrast between the North and South of Europe.--Costume of Andalusia.--Fashion.--Life of the People.--Price of Labor.--Food.--Climate.--Beer.--Wine cheaper than Water.-- Sack.--Intemperance.--Physical Circumstances.--Social Burdens.--Beautiful Trait.--Obedience.--Veneration of the Aged
MALAGA.
An ill Wind that blows no Good.--Curious Excuse for Crime.--Old World like the New.--Resort for Invalids.--Genial Clime.--Range of Thermometer.-- Mineral Waters.--Sunshine.--Rainfall.--Heavenly Skies.--Advice to Consumptives.--Grapes.--Raisins.--Wine and Oil.--A Sabbath.--Service at the British Consulate.--Mrs. Partington.--English Chaplain.--Sermon.--Narrow Streets.--Sweet Memories of Cologne.--Picturesque Moors.--Cathedral.--High Mass.--Florid Architecture.--Fruits.--Prayer of a Dying Moor.--Florinde.-- Chronicles of Washington Irving.--Luxuries of Travel.--Diligences.--Out of Malaga.--Obstinate Mules.--Night.--Mountains.--Setting Sun.--Lovely Scenery.--Orchards.--Armed Guards.--Gentlemen of the Road.--Loja.--Inn.-- Flock of Fleas.--A Stimulant.--Setting out for Granada.--Santa F?.--Its History.--Granada at Last.--In the Grounds of the Alhambra
THE ALHAMBRA.
The Paradise of the West.--Rivers of Eden.--New Damascus.--Granada.--Origin of the Name.--Fruits.--Mountains.--Skies.--Moorish Empire broken.--Zawi Ibu Zeyri.--Alhambra.--Meaning of the Name.--Extension of the Castle.-- Original Grandeur.--Its first Prince.--His Improvements.--Roads.-- Colleges.--Hospitals.--Canals.--Arts.--Sciences.--Degeneracy.--Intrigues and Murders.--Ruin.--Final Overthrow of Moorish Power.--Ferdinand and Isabella.--Columbus.--Fleas and Cake.--Blessing and Gold.--New World in the West.--Bookstore.--Irving's Tales.--Gate of Judgment.--Plateau.-- Desolation.--Court of Myrtles.--Court of Lions.--Boabdil.--Abencerrages.-- Treachery.--Hall of Ambassadors.--Bensaken.--Walking Cyclopedia.-- Prudence.--Washington Irving.--Dolores.--Queen's Garden.--Hall of Two Sisters.--Harem.--Linderaka Gardens.--Queen's Dressing-room.--Gypsies.-- Perfume Bath.--Water Bath.--Governor's Court.--Bowed Slab.--The Morning Star
THE ALHAMBRA .
The poor Cobbler of Granada.--Spanish Rule of Living.--Xantippe.--Search for Gold.--Messenger Dove.--Dreams.--Landslip.--Fever cured.--Conversion.-- The Watch Tower.--Magic Bell.--Parapanda Mountains.--Reign of Law.--Gift to the Duke of Wellington.--Bloody Pass.--Vega.--Water Gates.--The Last Sigh of the Moor.--His Mother's Reproof.--Moorish Race.--Political Prisoners.--Birthplace of Eugenie.--The Generaliffe.--Ancient Tree.-- Suspected Queen.--Women of Spain.--Sins of Climate
GRANADA.
Troubadour and Gypsy Life.--Dwarf.--Horse.--Fair.--Physique of the gitanos.-- Habits.--Habitations.--Moral Principle.--Chastity.--Swindling.-- Superstition.--Fortune-tellers.--Credulity.--Trickery.--Parisian Spiritualist.--Gypsy Creed.--Musings.--Causes of Astonishment.--Paintings and Cathedrals.--Unworthy Ambition.--Silence in Church.--Cathedral of Granada.--Chapel Royal.--Tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella.--Tomb of Philip and Crazy Jane.--Obliging Priest.--Fees.--Leaving Granada.--Disguised Thief.--Seizure and Imprisonment.--Out of Granada
GENEVA.--FREYBURG.--BERNE.
Geneva.--Color of the Rhone.--Caesar's Wall.--Cathedral.--Calvin.--Lady Jane Grey.--Rousseau.--Voltaire.--Madame de Stael.--Byron.--Jura.--Mont Blanc.-- Celebrities.--Coppet.--Ninon.--St. Protais.--Lisus.--Morges.--Grand Muveran.--Diablerets.--Mont Rosa.--Mont Blanc.--Lausanne.--St. Anne.--Sacred Rat.--Cathedral.--Convention of Reformers.--Gibbon.--Classic Ground.-- Chillon.--Bonnivard.--Torture Chamber.--Hotel Byron.--Railroad.--Ice.--Swiss Valleys.--Freyburg.--Suspension Bridge.--Great Organ.--Cathedral.-- Wonderful Music: its Power and Sweetness.--Berne.--Morat.--Burgundian Custom.--Public Bears.--Unfortunate Englishman.--Curious Clock.--Market Women.--Federal Palace.--Swiss Cantons.--Bernese Alps.--Thun.--Jungfrau
THE BRUNIG PASS.--LUCERNE.
Pleasant Ride.--Interlaken.--Lakes Thun and Brienz.--Abendberg.--Faulhorn.-- Giesback.--Illumination.--Ascent of the Brunig.--Vale of Meyringen.--Falls of Reichenbach.--Lungern.--Splendid Courage.--Cheap Suffering.--Modern Reformers.--Mount Pilatus.--Myths.--Lucerne.--Population.--St. Leger.-- Service.--Crucifix.--A Devotee.--Mass.--Organ.--Cloisters.--Lake Lucerne.-- Lion of Lucerne.--Dance of Death.--Striking Scenery.--Gersau.--Brunnen.-- Bay of Uri.--Sir James Mackintosh.--Swiss Patriots.--Chapel of Tell.-- Cascades.--Fluellen.--Altorf.--Captain Lott
THE BLACK VIRGIN OF EINSIEDELN.--LIFE IN SWITZERLAND, ETC.
The Hermit Meinrad.--His Black Virgin.--Murder.--Detective Ravens.-- Monastery.--Miracle.--Shrine.--Pilgrims.--Revenue.--A Barefooted Penitent.-- Village Church.--Fountain.--Gallery.--Abbot.--Hospitality.--Library.-- College.--Monastic Life.--Adieu.--Pleasant Quarters.--Meals.--Hotel Life.-- John Bull.--A Charming Couple.--Americans.--A National Feature.--Slang.-- Language.--Manners.--An Elegant Lady.--Selfishness.--French and Swiss Railroads.--Improvements.--Accidents.--Accommodations
CANTON APPENZELL.--SWISS CUSTOMS.
Trogen.--Convent.--Memento mori.--Scenery.--Religion.--German Service.-- Curious Custom.--Constance.--Martyrs.--Dividing Line.--Remarkable Change.-- Cause.--Pillory.--Evening Bell.--Watchman's Song.--Bridal Custom.--Athletic Sports.--Democracy.--Assembly.--Office Seekers.--Council.--Roads.-- Taxation.--Schools.--Foreign Pupils.--Pedestrians.--Moral Culture.-- Treatment of Women.--Cows.--Farm Work.--Manufactures.--Mechanics.--God's Acre.--Graves.--Funeral Ceremonies.--Simplicity.--Lonely Burial.-- Unpleasing Custom.--Costumes.--The Upper Classes.--Refinement and Culture.--Manners.--Patriotism.--A Challenge
GERMAN WATERING-PLACES.--BINGEN ON THE RHINE.
A German Watering-place.--Land of Salt.--Salt Works.--Last of the Barons.-- Homburg.--Kursaal.--Palace.--Gaming.--Kreusnach.--Spas.--Salt Springs.-- Cure-house.--Kissingen.--Baths.--Cures.--Long Sledge-ride.--Princess of Mecklenburg.--Clerical Postman.--Whey-cure.--Grape-cure.--Rest.-- Rheingraffenstein.--Ebernburg.--Relics of Reformers.--French Cannon Balls.--The Bingen of Poetry.--The Real Bingen.--Bishop Hatto's Tower.-- Ma?se-thurme.--Southey.--Ehrenfels.--Rudesheimer Vineyards.--Wine-making.-- Shallow Soil.--Johannisberg Vineyard.--The Rhine.--Mayence.--Printing.-- Guttenberg's Statue.--Cathedral
Tomb of Charlemagne.--The Dead Emperor.--Cathedral.--Consecration.--Holy Shrine.--Healing Waters.--Palace.--Holy Relics.--Remarkable List.-- Septennial Exhibition.--Sultan of Turkey.--Crowd.--Order and Devotion.-- Sultan and Suite.--Stolidity.--Priests and Women.--A Crush.--Pageant opened.--Procession.--The Relics.--Puseyite Priest.--On the Road to Rome.-- Superstition.--Pictures.--Virgin's Garment.--Modern Style.--Holy Shirt.-- Other Relics.--Pilgrims.--Revenue.--Waters.--Fountain.--Music.--Invalids.-- Kurhaus.--Social Ease.--Baths.--Sulphur Water.--Antiquities.--Tower of Granus.--Statue of Charlemagne.--Bust and Skull
FRANKFORT.
Graveyard.--Childish Plays.--Cheerful Graves.--Grave of Goethe's Mother.-- Inscription.--Lovely Sentiment.--Coffin of Goethe.--Wealthy Jew.-- Humiliation.--Ancient Glory.--Ariadne.--Elegant Cars.--Smokers.--Pine Forests.--Women's Rights.--Beer Drinking.--A Good Arrangement.-- Frankfort-on-the-Oder.--Krewz.--Dinner.--Gardens.--Scenery.--Nakal.-- Bromberg.--Wedges.--Attentive Servant.--Frontier.--Passports.--The Vistula.--Poland.--Warsaw
WARSAW.
Historic Legend.--The Jesuits.--Partition.--Last Insurrection.--Nationality crushed out.--Attempted Insurrection.--Defeat.--Warsaw.--Armed Despotism.-- Discontent.--Precarious Prosperity.--Russian Rule and Language.--Fate of a Spy.--Consequence.--Russian Soldiery.--Ill-manners.--Botanical Gardens.-- Observatory.--Palace.--Sobieski's Monument.--Grave Error.--Illumination.-- Streets.--Drunkenness.--Climate.--Lutheran Church.--Relics of Romanism.-- Mendicants.--Jewish Quarter.--Hospital.--War of Religions.--Statue of the Virgin.--Little Russia.--Funeral.--English Cock
FROM WARSAW TO ST. PETERSBURG.
Pretentious Hotel.--Splendid Bridge.--Polite Ticket-seller.--Cars.-- Prairie.--Wretched Peasantry.--Jews.--Railroad Employes.--Lapy.--Mother and Son.--Bialystok.--Grodno.--Diet of Poland.--Last King of Poland.--Jewish Holiday.--Lithuania.--Plains.--Napoleon's Hill.--Monument.--Wilna.--Ruins.-- Insurrection.--Babel.--Dunaberg.--Captive.--Short Night.--Serfs.--Reform.-- Board of Arbitrators.--Emancipation.--Pskof.--Lady Smoker.--St. Petersburg
ST. PETERSBURG.
RUSSIAN ART, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS.
Winter Palace.--Ways of Royalty.--Crown Jewels.--Orloff Diamond.-- Hermitage.--Art Galleries.--Curious Code of Laws.--Royal Museum.--Peter's Walking-stick.--Art Culture.--Condition of the Masses.--Laborers.-- Mechanics.--Prices.--Rent.--Food.--Dress.--Peculiar Custom.--Polite Bankers.--Despot.--Justice.--Verdicts.--Story of Labanoff.--Siberia.-- Abuses.--Academy of Science.--Zoological Museum.--Sunset on the Neva.-- Boatman.--Light at Evening-tide
FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW.
American Engineers.--Sleeping Arrangements.--Newspapers.--Drama.--Courtesy.-- Lubanskaia.--Dinner.--Villages.--The Volga.--Murdered Bishop.--Sleeping Car.--Ladder.--Russian Jargon.--Pathetic Appeal.--Board.--Refreshments.-- Greek Ecclesiastic.--Patriarch Nicon.--New Jerusalem.--Profanity.-- Tyranny.--Revolt.--Pope of the North.--Emperor's Slight.--Nicon's Humility.--Banishment.--Patriarchates.--Dead Level.--Flight of Freedom
THE KREMLIN AND THE BELLS OF MOSCOW.
A Swiss Landlord.--Fleas.--Shrines.--Palaces, Cottages, and Churches.--The Moskva.--Circular City.--Kremlin Walls.--Gates.--Chief Entrance.--Picture of the Redeemer.--Respect.--Cannon.--Miracle.--Splendid Scene.--Tower of Ivan.--Bells.--Medium of Worship.--Holy City.--Pilgrims.--Bell-making.-- Precious Metals.--Silver Bells.--Chapel of the Betrothed.--Music of the Bells
THE CHURCHES OF MOSCOW.
Cathedral of the Assumption.--Bones of the Patriarchs.--The Iconastasis.-- Sanctuary.--Archbishop's Throne.--Coronation Ceremony.--Tombs.--Cathedral of the Archangel Michael.--Religious Freedom.--Churches.--Cathedral of St. Basil.--Archangel Cathedral.--Pilgrims.--Golgotha.--Sacristy.-- Religion.--Holy Oil.--Baptism.--Making of the Holy Chrism
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