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OVER 250 WAYS TO COOK AND SERVE Fish AND OTHER PRODUCTIONS OF THE SEA. A CHOICE COLLECTION OF RECEIPTS REPRESENTING THE LATEST AND MOST APPROVED METHODS OF Cooking

COMPLIMENTS OF Shute & Merchant, GLOUCESTER, MASS.

SHUTE & MERCHANT'S ABSOLUTELY BONELESS BRANDS OF FISH. Packed in 1 to 40 lb. boxes.

Diamond Wedge, Gold Wedge, Silver Wedge, Not-a-Choke, Wedge, Swan's Down Tid Bits.

Packed in 24 to 48 lb. boxes.

Diamond Wedge, Cartons and Waffles, Eider Down, Waffles, S. & M. Waffles, Swan's Down Waffles, Swan's Down Tid Bit Waffles.

And other Brands commonly called Boneless, too numerous to mention.

INTRODUCTION.

"There are many fishes in the Sea," in fact so many that it is possible to have a different kind served every day of the year, and still not exhaust the variety, but it is necessary to the attainment of this result to have the resources of a great city fish market at one's command. Thanks to the skill of the trained cook there are an infinite number of ways in which the commoner sort of fish that are to be had everywhere, can be transformed into a great variety of dainty, yet simple and inexpensive dishes. And here is the value of this publication.

Cook books there are of all sorts and shapes, but strange to say the subject of Fish Cookery has been sadly neglected in all of them, and to supply this deficiency, the following collection of receipts has been carefully gathered and properly arranged for the convenience of the housewife, no time or expense having been spared to make the volume a thoroughly reliable and practical guide upon the important subject which it treats.

The experience of distinguished chefs and epicures of many lands have been fully drawn upon, while noted travellers, anglers, and sportsmen, who have been pleased with the cookery of some famous guide or cook, have revealed his secrets for the benefit of our readers. The famous housekeepers have assisted, too, and have contributed generously from the wealth of their experience. In addition to the receipts there will be found within the covers of the book much other information of value to the reader, about the best fish foods, where obtained and how to be made of the best service. It is in every way a complete guide to the culinary art as applied to the fish family.

CARE IN THE COOKROOM. Importance of Selecting the Best in the Line of Food Supplies.

Housekeepers throughout the land are every day becoming better informed regarding the relative quality of articles of food offered in the markets, and the tradesman who does not cater to this growing knowledge will soon lose the patronage of his best customers. People of intelligence now demand the best in food products, and the essential features of superiority insisted upon are palatableness, purity and wholesomeness. These qualities must unite in order that the stamp of approval may be bestowed, and a product lacking any one of these cardinal requirements cannot hope for lasting success. Upon the other hand, when any article of food supply has demonstrated that it not only pleases the taste, but is also nutritious and in every way conducive to health, the popularity of such product is assured.

An illustration of the preceding statement is happily furnished in the pronounced popularity of "Gold Wedge" Brand of Fibered Codfish, a product absolutely without odor, and requiring no boiling or soaking, which must be conceded a place of pre-eminence among the food products of unquestioned value now being offered. That this article possesses all the necessary qualifications for its acceptance by the most keenly critical and discriminating housekeeper has been so frequently and so thoroughly demonstrated that it is scarcely worth while to more than allude to such fact. That it has attained to the highest place in the confidence of consumers is ample proof of its superiority. The cardinal virtues of Palatableness, Purity and Wholesomeness have rendered "Gold Wedge" Brand of Fibered Codfish a favored article of food in refined and intelligent homes, and caused it to be regarded as a necessary part of the menu.

Wherever unquestioned worth in any food article is amply proved it is the duty of the physician to bestow his commendation, and hygienic publications should be foremost in extending their meed of praise, for to these two sources the general public must ever look for unbiased and competent advice upon all matters pertaining to the health and well-being of the people; it is, therefore, with more than ordinary pleasure that we bear testimony to the appetizing and wholesome qualities of "Gold Wedge" Brand of Fibered Codfish, which is in all respects worthy of highest praise.

The manufacturers of this superior food product, Shute & Merchant, Gloucester, Mass., are of such standing commercially that their brand is indicative of merit; and we feel no hesitancy in bestowing heartiest approval upon their wares. To those of our readers who have written us concerning this product, and to others who may not be fully conversant with the high qualities of the same, we would say that "Gold Wedge" Brand of Fibered Codfish is all that could be desired, and that it should find a place upon every table where the laws of health, as well as the gratification of the appetite, receive the proper consideration. Any first-class dealer will supply this article if insisted upon, and those catering to refined patronage will see the necessity of keeping it in stock.

J. W. ARNOLD, M. D.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.

To economize space and avoid much unnecessary repetition, we herewith append such directions for the treatment of fish preparatory to cooking as admit of general application.

No. 1. When a Fish is Fresh.--When the gills of a fish are of a bright color, and the eyes appear full and clear, it is quite fresh; if the flesh seems hard and firm and rises quickly from pressure with the finger, its freshness is still farther assured. Although a fish that will not stand these tests may not be spoilt, its goodness has deteriorated in proportion as it fails to meet such requirements, and it is so much less desirable for the table. The sense of smell cannot be relied upon to decide the question of freshness.

No. 2. To Dress or Clean a Fish.--Some fish require scaling and some need to be skinned before cooking. The sooner a fish is scaled after taking from the water, the easier it can be done. Some fish of the scaly variety, however, should never be scaled as the scales of such are esteemed a delicacy. Such exceptions will be noted in the recipes for cooking these fish. When the scales of a fish have become dry and hard or the fish is a difficult one to scale from any cause, it should be soaked for a while in cold salted water. If you have not time to do this, hold the fish up by the tail and pour boiling water over it, but do not let it lie in hot water for an instant. Having scaled the fish, the next question is how is it to be cooked? for this has much to do with the dressing process.

No. 3. To prepare for Baking or Boiling.--If the fish is a large one and to be cooked whole, it should be opened from the vent up as far as the ventral fins,--taking care not to mutilate the roes or livers if they are wanted for cooking. With a sharp knife separate the intestines from the body, also the gills from the head, and pull out all together through the natural gill opening. The reason for opening the fish as little as possible, is to keep it in best possible shape for stuffing, but if no stuffing is to be used the opening may be made larger to suit the convenience of dressing. When the gills and intestines have been removed, the fish should be washed freely in cold salted water, and all clotted blood thoroughly removed. Only under conditions hereinafter specified should fish be washed after the fins have been cut out or the solid flesh of the fish has been cut into. No washing of the flesh can make it any cleaner than it is in its natural condition, and if the fish is washed after the flesh has been cut you are simply bringing the slime and blood in contact with it, and the more you wash it the more you are rubbing it in, and the fish may become so impregnated as to be extremely strong when cooked. This is a point that should not be disregarded if you would have sweet-flavored fish. After washing thoroughly, wipe perfectly dry, then either cut out or trim off the fins, as occasion requires or tastes suggest. A pair of scissors will be found very convenient for trimming off the fins.

No. 4. To prepare Fish for Broiling.--Dress, wash and wipe dry before splitting. Always split a fish on the under side, and unless the fish is very small indeed remove the back bone entire, then the thickest part of the fish will come over the center and hottest part of the fire, and both sides will be cooked alike, whereas if the back bone is left in one side, that side will take longer to cook, and will be less desirable after it is cooked, for when the back bone is removed from the cooked fish a good part of the brown part is taken off with it, and it loses its flavor as a broiled fish. Properly broiled, all parts should be equally browned, both an account of flavor and appearance. Very small fish are sometimes broiled without splitting; these should be dressed the same as for frying.

No. 5. To prepare Fish for Frying.--Fish may be fried whole in steaks or fillets. Those to be fried whole must be dressed, then washed and wiped perfectly dry. Steaks are slices of fish cut crosswise; fillets are made from steaks or from pieces of fish cut off lengthwise, and may be any size or shape to suit individual tastes. The best way to make fillets is to dress and split the fish, remove the back bone and then cut the fish into halves, quarters or eights, according to size.

No. 6. Fish to Skin.--Fish that require to be skinned before cooking, should be first dressed and washed clean, then remove the skin, head, tail and fins, rinse quickly in clear cold water and wipe thoroughly dry.

? Notice.--No repetition of the foregoing directions for dressing and cleaning fish will occur in connection with any recipes to which they are applicable. When other treatment is requisite special directions will accompany the recipe.

No. 7. Fish Cookery in General.--Under this head will be found such instructions for the cooking of fish as are applicable to any or all kinds. Special recipes for special varieties are given elsewhere but many of these are equally suited to other fish of similar qualities.

No. 8. Fish to Fry.--Fish may be fried in olive oil, pork fat, lard, cottolene, or clarified drippings; the latter being probably the most economical; the first chiefly used in French or high-class cookery, but we favor pork fat ourselves. Whatever fat is used it should be deep enough to cover the fish and hot enough to brown a piece of bread handsomely in thirty seconds or less. The pork fat is made by trying out thin slices of fat salt pork, being careful not to let it burn. The pork gives the fish a flavor not to be obtained by the use of salt in connection with other oils or fats. When the pork fat is used salt should be used sparingly if at all. Fried fish should be seasoned while cooking. The slices of pork may be used as a garnish and served with the fish. After wiping dry, fish should be rolled in Indian meal, flour, cornstarch, or crumbs before frying. If the fish has been on ice or is very cold, do not put it into the fat fast enough to cool it perceptably. Watch carefully while cooking, don't break or mutilate in turning or dishing, cook a nice brown, drain on a sieve, colander or paper, and serve hot on a napkin. Unless fish are very small they should be notched each side before rolling in meal or other absorbents previous to frying.

No. 9. To Saute, is to fry in just fat enough to cover bottom of frying pan.

No. 10. To Broil.--The process of broiling is probably the most simple as well as the most desirable method of cooking many kinds of fish, the natural flavor and juices being better preserved than by any other, and the flavor may be further enhanced by the judicious use of seasoning, herbs, etc., preparatory to broiling The double iron broiler is unquestionably the best utensil for broiling fish, yet they may be broiled on a griddle or in a spider. Heat hot and butter well before laying in the fish, cook the flesh side first, when that is perfectly browned turn and finish cooking. Serve on a hot platter, spread with butter or cream or both and season to taste. A fish may also be broiled in a good hot oven in the dripping pan, and if it be a very fat one will cook nicely. The pan should be well buttered and the fish placed skin side down and cooked without turning. Basting once or twice with butter or cream while cooking is advisable.

No. 11. To Boil.--Boiling is considered by many the most insipid and undesirable way of cooking fish, yet there are certain varieties that are best cooked this way if accompanied by a rich sauce. The fish boiler is almost indispensable to success in boiling or steaming a whole fish, but everybody hasn't one, and to such we would say utilize the wash boiler. Put a bowl or something in each end that will support a platter, either side up; on the platter lay the fish and add water enough to reach the platter without coming in contact with the fish, thus enabling you to steam the fish, which is preferable to boiling. Fish boiled in a common kettle should first be wrapped closely in cheese cloth or fine muslin to preserve its shape. The head is the best part of a boiled fish, and the nearer the head the better the remaining portion. Boiled fish should be served on a napkin and the sauce in a tureen. A fish of six pounds should boil or steam in thirty or thirty-five minutes. The water should always be salted. A boiled fish may be stuffed, but usually they are not. Recipes for sauces suitable for boiled fish will be found under the head of sauces,

No. 12. To Bake.--Different varieties of fish, different sizes, and different portions of fish require such varied treatment in baking we can offer but few general rules for this branch of cookery. Our recipes, however, will supply all needed information. A dripping pan with a false bottom, either wire or perforated, with a handle at each end by which to lift it, is particularly desirable in baking fish. Wanting these, strips of cloth well buttered and placed across the bottom of the pan will be found extremely convenient for lifting out the fish. A baked fish presents a more attractive appearance when served in an upright position on the platter, and also cooks much nicer in this condition. To keep it so while cooking, first press it down enough to flatten the under side, then if necessary brace it up with skewers or with potatoes placed against it until it is well under way for cooking, when it will keep its position until cooked and dished. Sometimes it is advisable to bend the fish half-moon shape and cook it that way, or if the fish is long and slender the tail may be tied to the mouth, either of which methods will keep the fish in upright position. Dressing and force-meats are considered elsewhere, and indexed under their appropriate headings.

? The secret of success in all kinds of fish cookery is to so cook and serve it that it shall be attractive in appearance and satisfying in flavor; that is, the flavor when especially agreeable or desirable must be retained or enhanced. When the flavor of a fish is insipid or unpleasant it must be cooked with a view to imparting an unnatural but at the same time pleasant flavor instead. This is the secret of success in fish cookery, and these points have been especially considered in the selection of the accompanying recipes.

No. 13. Sauces.--Sauces are extensively used in all kinds of fish cookery. For convenience in reference we have given them first place among our recipes. Although consommes or stocks are not absolutely indispensable in connection with fish cookery, they are nevertheless extremely useful in the making of nice sauces, and recipes for making them in great variety may be found in almost every cook book, still we have thought best to give directions for making two of those most frequently used in preparing the following sauces. When stocks are not at hand, liquor in which fish have been cooked will answer every purpose, and even milk or water, or both may be substituted.

No. 14. Consomme or White Stock.--A French method of making a white stock, is to put in a stock pot, or kettle, a roast fowl or the remains of a chicken or turkey, a knuckle of veal, say four pounds, one pound of beef and three quarts of water, when scum begins to rise skim carefully, until it ceases to appear, then add a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a leek, two cloves, two stalks of celery, and a little salt, simmer very gently four hours. Remove every particle of grease and strain through a flannel cloth, kept for the purpose.

No. 15. Fish Stock.--Two pounds of veal, four pounds of fish, or more veal, and less fish, if you do not have as much fish, two onions, rind of half a lemon, bunch sweet herbs, two carrots, two quarts water. Cut up fish and meat and put with other ingredients into the water, simmer two hours, skim liquor carefully and strain. When a richer stock is wanted, fry the vegetables and fish before adding the water.

No. 16. Drawn Butter.--No. 1. This is the simplest and most generally used of any fish sauce, and serves as the foundation for a large proportion of such sauces. It can be made very economically also, its cost depending upon the amount of butter used. Simple as it is many people fail in making it. To make it nice and smooth with one pint hot water, half a cup of butter, two teaspoons flour, half a teaspoon salt and half a saltspoon of pepper, put one-half the butter in a saucepan and melt without letting it brown, add the dry flour, mixing well, then stir in the hot water, a little at a time, stir rapidly as it thickens; when perfectly smooth add the remaining butter bit by bit and stir until all absorbed, then add the seasoning; if carefully made it will be free from lumps, if it is not smooth strain before serving.

No. 17. Drawn Butter Sauce.--No. 2. Pour boiling hot drawn butter sauce into the well beaten yolks of two eggs, mix thoroughly, season to taste, and serve quickly.

No. 18. Cream Sauce.--This sauce is made by substituting cream or milk for water in the drawn butter sauce

No. 19. White or White Stock substituted for the water in drawn butter sauce makes this sauce.

No. 20. Acid Sauce.--Lemon juice or vinegar added to the drawn butter sauce

No. 21. Anchovy Sauce.--Bone four anchovies and bruise in mortar to a smooth paste and stir them in a drawn butter sauce simmer five minutes, or stir in two teaspoons of essence of anchovy. A little cayenne added is an improvement.

No. 22. Egg Sauce. To make this sauce add two or three hard boiled eggs, chopped or sliced, to the drawn butter sauce

No. 23. Parsley Sauce.--Add two teaspoons of chopped parsley to the drawn butter sauce

No. 24. Caper Sauce.--Add capers to suit to a plain drawn butter sauce or to a White sauce

No. 25. Hollandaise Sauce.--One cup of butter, yolks of two eggs, juice of half a lemon, one saltspoon of salt, pinch of cayenne, half a cup of boiling water. Rub butter to a cream, add yolks one at a time, and beat well, adding lemon juice, salt and pepper. A few minutes before serving add the boiling water, place the bowl in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir rapidly until it thickens like a boiled custard.

No. 26. Wine Sauce.--Mix and knead well together in a bowl two ounces of butter, one tablespoon of chopped parsley, juice of one-half a lemon, salt and pepper, speck of mace, and one wine glass of Madeira or sherry wine. Beat the butter to a cream and gradually beat in the seasoning. A tablespoon of vinegar may be substituted for the wine if preferred. This sauce is particularly nice for broiled fish. It should be poured over the fish.

No. 27. Cardinal Sauce.--Cardinal sauce is, as a rule, made from lobsters and colored with coral; so, if possible, purchase lobsters containing coral. Boil the lobster; open and remove the coral and press it through a sieve. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a pan; let it melt. Add a tablespoonful of flour mixed, without browning; add one-half pint stock, one-half teaspoonful of onion juice, and a bay leaf. Stir constantly until it boils. Take out the bay leaf; add a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, the coral and a little of the red part of the lobster chopped fine and serve.

No. 28. Sauce Soubise.--Peel and chop three onions; simmer them with one ounce of butter for three quarters of an hour, but do not let them color very much. Add one tablespoon of flour, salt, pepper and a pinch of mace, and mix all together; moisten with half a pint of the fish liquor, and the same quantity of hot cream or milk. Serve in tureen.

No. 29. Shrimp Sauce.--Take half a pint of drawn butter or white sauce and when boiling add a little lobster coral, if you have it, if not, add half a teaspoon of anchovy essence. Remove the shells from four dozen shrimp, put them into the sauce, heat and serve. Canned shrimp may be substituted for the fresh.

No. 30. Lobster Sauce.--Take the meat from a boiled lobster weighing about one pound, cut it into dice-shaped pieces. Add two ounces of butter to the coral, rub it together with the blade of a knife, and press it through a sieve. Make a butter sauce with cream, put in the coral, season with salt, pepper and a little mace, and heat it hot without allowing to boil; add the lobster meat, let it get hot again without boiling, and serve in sauce tureen. If allowed to boil it will spoil its color, which is one desirable feature of this sauce. Crab sauce may be made in the same way, using lobster coral if convenient.

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