Read Ebook: The narrative of a journey undertaken in the years 1819 1820 and 1821 through France Italy Savoy Switzerland parts of Germany bordering on the Rhine Holland and the Netherlands by Holman James

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LE PORTRAIT DE PARIS.

Amour; marriage; divorce; Naissance; mort; enterrement; Fausse vertu; brillante ?corce; Petit esprit; grand sentiment; Dissipateurs; pr?teurs sur gages; Hommes de lettres; financiers; Financiers; cr?anciers; maltotiers, et rentiers; Tiedes amis; femmes volages; riches galants; Pauvres maris. Voil? Paris! Voil? Paris!

L? des comm?res qui bavardent; L? des viellards; l? des enfans; L? des aveugles qui regardent Ce que leur donnent les passant; Restorateurs; apoticaires; commis; pedants; Taileurs; voleurs; rimailleurs, ferrailleurs; Aboyeurs; juges de paix, et gens de guerre; Tendrons vendu, quitt?, repris. Voil? Paris! Voil? Paris!

Maints gazetiers; maints impostures; Maints enneuyeux; maints ennuy?s; Beaucoup de fripons en voitures; Beaucoup d'honn?tes gens ? pied; Les jeunes gens portent lunettes; Le vieux visage rajeuni; Rajeunis bien garnis, bien garnis de vernis; Acteurs; ventes; marionettes; grand melodrames; Plats ecris. Voil? Paris! Voil? Paris!

The week now drawing to a close, I prepared to quit Paris; in particular, I had my passport arranged, a point frequently attended with much trouble, as it must in the first instance be procured from the police, then presented for the signature of the English ambassador, after which it is returned to the police, and some other office, for their definitive signatures, before the individual is permitted to depart.

Having engaged a place in the diligence, which took the way of Tours, in the afternoon of the 27th of October, I commenced my journey to Bordeaux, after bidding farewell

"To the few, I might leave with regret."

In order to guard against the same irregularity of meals, which I had suffered from on my way to Paris, I took care to be provided with a tongue, fruit, and a bottle of wine. My companions were three Frenchmen, and of course I could anticipate little conversation, at least they were sure soon to find me a dead letter; but notwithstanding, I doubted not but that I should derive occupation and amusement from my own reflections, and determined to avail myself of all the opportunities of social intercourse which might offer themselves. As may be imagined, the afternoon passed off very silently on my part: at night I contrived to dose a little, and my companions accorded with me perfectly in this respect.

On the following day we dined at Blois, where they gave us some of the finest grapes I had yet partaken of in France. In the evening the weather proved rainy; at midnight we arrived at Tours, from whence, after resting a few hours, we proceeded on our journey at five o'clock in the morning; at eight o'clock we halted at a small town for breakfast, where I derived some gratification from meeting with a person who could speak English, an Irish horse-dealer, travelling with his string of horses from Rochelle to Paris.

"But patience is more oft the exercise Of saints, the trial of their fortitude."

At length the motion began to increase, and to my great surprise, after an hour's suspense, I heard the horses again attaching to the carriage; the passengers re-entered the coach, and we once more proceeded on our journey!

It was afterwards explained to me, that these unaccountable proceedings arose, on our having arrived on the banks of the river Dordogne, which enters the Garonne, near Bordeaux, from the necessity, at this point, of transporting the carriage on a raft for some distance down the stream; that the passengers had crossed the river in a ferry-boat, to a coach waiting for them on the other side, leaving me to float down with the carriage on the raft, or sink to the bottom as fate might determine; in short, I found that, while I supposed myself sitting in the coach-office yard at Bordeaux, I had actually travelled four miles by water, without having entertained the least idea of such an adventure.

In a quarter of an hour after this, we actually arrived at the coach office. On alighting, I was accosted by a man, who in the English language informed me, that he was a traiteur , and who did me the favour of recommending to me, in very strong terms, both his house and his wife; the latter, he said, was an American, spoke English well, and would provide me an excellent bed, as well as every thing else I might wish for; but as I had a particular introduction to a friend, I determined to decline these tempting offers, until I had consulted him: taking the traiteur's card therefore, and requesting him to procure a hackney-coach, I drove straightway to the house of my friend, who recommended me to take lodgings in preference. I lost no time in adopting his suggestion, and taking immediate possession of my apartments, experienced the great luxury and refreshment of changing my dress, after four days' uninterrupted travelling.

On the following morning, at the urgent instance of my friend, I consulted an eminent oculist of this place, respecting my eyes, who appeared to entertain the same opinion as most of my medical attendants in England; namely, that a cataract existed, but not sufficiently matured, to be operated upon, with advantage, for the present. My friend, however, was not satisfied with this opinion, and insisted upon taking me to the wife of an umbrella-maker, famous for her skill in restoring sight, and who recommended a long course of herb medicines, and other nostrums; but I wanted faith in her power to serve me, and moreover, was satisfied with the opinions, in which my medical friends had concurred, as well as reconciled to my deprivation, and resigned to the will of Providence.

"Who finds not Providence all good and wise, Alike in what it gives, and what denies."--POPE.

My next attention, was to ascertain the modes of conveyance to Toulouse. We found that the diligence sets out every other day at ten in the morning, occupying two days, and two nights on the road, the fare forty-five francs; there was, however, also a voiture from Paris, leaving on the following morning, and which would be five days on the journey, resting always at night; and by the recommendation of my friend, I determined to give it the preference; in short, I was pleased with the idea of this new mode of travelling. An agreement in writing was drawn up, to which the proprietor affixed his signature, and according to which, amongst other stipulations, I was to be taken up from my lodgings, and provided, during my journey, with a bed-room to myself every night. We were informed that an officer and his wife were to be of the party, and the latter happening to be present, offered to render me every assistance in her power; this, I must admit, was an additional inducement with me, for the attentions of the softer sex are peculiarly acceptable under my present affliction; and it is but a just tribute to their kindness, to say, that I have abundantly experienced them; and farther, I am convinced that the sympathy I have so often met with, is perfectly congenial with the innate principles of the female character.

"Man may the sterner virtues know, Determined justice, truth severe; But female hearts with pity glow, And woman holds affliction dear."--CRABBE.

JOURNEY TO TOULOUSE.

My stay in Bordeaux was too brief to enable me to acquire any knowledge of this ancient and celebrated city, nor indeed, had it been prolonged, do my inclinations, or powers, qualify me for topographical description; the chief object of the present narrative, being to relate the incidents of a journey, which at the time greatly interested me, and to give as faithful representations of men and manners, as the opportunities which presented themselves, and my personal disadvantages would admit of; in short, to

"Eye nature's walks, shoot folly as it flies, And catch the manners living as they rise."

I was apprised by a porter, at three o'clock, that the voiture was in readiness, and after bustling to be in time, was by no means pleased to find that I had been disturbed an hour too soon; nor was my dissatisfaction diminished, when the porter, by signs, gave me to understand, that I must traverse the greater part of the city with him to the coach-office; it was in vain to remonstrate with a person who could not understand me, and insist upon the fulfilment of my agreement; at length, however, to cut short the argument, my conductor, with a mixture of passion and impatience, seized my portmanteau, and gave me to understand, that I had no alternative but to accompany him, or lose my passage. In fine, I was obliged to submit, and after half an hour's walk, we reached the voiture in safety. The next measure was to place my portmanteau in security, and which, unless I had interfered, would have been exposed on the outside of the voiture. Travellers in France should always superintend the stowage of their luggage, as it is not unusual to have it stolen from the exterior of the carriage. Dr. O?, a gentleman, whom I had the pleasure of meeting in the summer of 1820, at Aix in Provence, in travelling from Lyons to Geneva, lost his trunk, containing valuable collections he had made in Italy, and other property, worth some thousand francs, from the outside of the diligence. He was induced to commence an action against the proprietors, either to stimulate them to recover his property, or to make them compensate his loss; but finding that, after a tedious and expensive process, the utmost he could recover, would be a thousand francs, he thought it most prudent to abandon it.

At length our arrangements being completed, the voiturier made the customary signal with his whip, and we bade adieu to Bordeaux.

One of the earliest, and most obvious attentions of the traveller in a public stage, is to reconnoitre his companions, and endeavour to ascertain whether it be possible to elicit information or amusement from them; the group with which I was now thrown into collision, was not unlikely to be productive of interest; I was soon convinced, from the nature of their conversation, that my companions were not of the genteelest stamp. The women were at home in speaking patois, and the only one who could not join in this, was the person who, I suppose from his wearing a large cocked-hat, had been taken for an officer, but who, I afterwards found, had been a bootmaker in one of Bonaparte's cavalry regiments.

The wine was excellent, and the glass circulated freely. Who thought I, would not travel in a voiture, to live thus cheerily, and at so trifling an expense, for it will scarcely appear credible, that the proprietor had engaged to convey me to Toulouse, a distance of one hundred and twenty-five miles, occupying five days on the journey, and providing me with every necessary, beds included, for thirty-five francs, equal to about five shillings and ten pence English money per day!

My companions appeared to enjoy their repast, and every additional glass evidently produced increased animation, as they talked louder and faster. They were, however, particularly attentive to myself, my want of sight probably exciting their sympathy.

At length, the bootmaker's wife, taking me by the hand, conducted me to a single-bedded room, from which, after having assisted in my arrangements, and warmed my bed, she permitted me to lock her out.

I cannot but express myself grateful, for the interest this kind-hearted woman evinced in my favour, on the present occasion; but this is not the only time, that I have been indebted for support and success, to a fair advocate.

At four in the morning we were summoned by the conducteur, and the soldier's wife kindly came to assist me down stairs. The party were assembled in the parlour, and fortifying themselves, against the fatigues of the day, with bread and brandy, but I gave the preference to some grapes. At eleven, we halted for breakfast, and, according to the usual custom, rested two hours in the middle of the day; after this we pursued our journey, the conducteur mounting under cover in front of the voiture, to protect him from the rain, which was falling heavily. About three o'clock, while proceeding so quietly, that it might almost be presumed, that not only the conducteur and his passengers, but the horses themselves were fast asleep, we were aroused by the very interesting incident of our whole equipage, including the horses, being overturned into a deep ditch. I shall not attempt to describe the noise and confusion which succeeded; the party were almost frantic with terror; at length, having succeeded in extricating ourselves from this unpleasant situation, I was placed for shelter under a large tree, while the rest assisted the conducteur in raising up the coach and horses. This operation took up half-an-hour, during which, I could hear our guide contributing abundantly, both with his whip and imprecations.

Fortunately no serious injury was sustained, and I felt strong reason to congratulate myself, for I had heard in the morning, that we were to cross the Garonne this afternoon, and my first impression was, that we were falling into this river; nor had I forgotten my adventures on the Dordogne.

We resumed our journey at the usual hour in the morning. Before we set out, the conducteur requested me to advance him a part of his fare, and which I believe is usual, if not generally necessary, as these people are so miserably poor, that, otherwise, they would be unable to bear the unavoidable expenses of the journey; but in my case, as it was agreed that he should be paid by my banker, on my safe arrival at Toulouse, he had no right to expect the indulgence. This arrangement had been adopted from my wish to have it supposed that I was travelling without money, notwithstanding, I had the precaution, as a resource against accidents, not only to have a few napoleons in my portmanteau, but also some in a girdle round my waist, so that I had a double chance of not being left destitute.

The succeeding morning proved remarkably fine, and we prosecuted our journey with additional pleasure. I found the conducteur more humble, and my companions, in general, more attentive to me than usual. The advantage I had derived from exercise on the preceding day determined me to walk again, and the bootmaker civilly offered me his arm. After proceeding some distance, he proposed entering a wine-shop, to which I assented; we tried three, however, before we found any wine to our taste: in consequence of the time thus lost, the voiture got considerably the start of us, so that we were obliged to exert ourselves to regain it.

On producing our wine, the provision-bags were also brought forward; we became merry as gypsies, and my cocked-hat friend particularly facetious. Soon after one o'clock, we arrived, in high glee, at our breakfasting-place, where we found a voiture full of students, on their way to the university of Toulouse. These young gentlemen paid me a marked attention during our repast, assisting me liberally to the produce of the table, and replenishing my glass before it was empty. When the voiture was ready, I walked forward with the soldier's wife, who appeared a far more respectable woman, than from her situation in life might have been expected. I now learnt, partly by words, and partly by signs, the situation and circumstances of her husband; that subsequently to the peace, he had attempted to support himself in Germany by his trade; but difficulties arising, he was removing to Toulouse, her native place, in hopes of proving more successful.

In the course of our walk, we ascended a considerable hill, from which, my companion informed me, the prospect was most extensive and beautiful. The air at this spot I found so soft, balmy, and exhilarating, that I felt assured I had now reached the south of France. After crossing a river, at seven o'clock we reached our quarters for the evening. The students had preceded us, and in consequence of their occupying the attention of the house, we had to wait a long time for our supper.

On the following morning we resumed our journey in high spirits, from the prospect of arriving at Toulouse in the evening. We reached Agen for breakfast, which I understood to be a very fine city: I was at this place so much charmed with the manners and attentions of some young ladies at the inn, that I admit I did not depart without regret. Had I the same talents for acquiring languages, as Joseph Scaliger, who was a native of this place, possessed, I might by this time have known sufficient of the French to have benefitted by the agreeable conversation of these ladies. At six in the evening we entered Toulouse, and were set down at a miserable inn, termed the Three Mules.

While our supper was getting ready, I went, under protection of the soldier's wife, to call upon Mrs. W?, a lady who had kindly offered to assist in procuring me a reception, for the winter, in some respectable French family. I was fortunate enough to find her at home; when she expressed much surprise at the manner in which I had travelled so far, and informed me, that preparatory arrangements had been made for my residence in the family of Colonel du B?. In returning to the inn we experienced some embarrassment; for my conductress had been so long absent from her native city, that we had much difficulty, in consequence of the narrowness and intricacy of the streets, in finding our way back to the inn.

After supper I was conducted to one of the most comfortless rooms that could be imagined; every thing felt so damp, so antiquated, and dusty: some of the chairs were without legs, others without backs; and the windows were broken: but as there was no remedy, I was obliged to make the best of it, and congratulated myself on having reached my destined winter residence, and thus far, negatived the doubts, and kind apprehensions of my friends.

TOULOUSE.

On the following morning, Mr. F?, a friend of Mrs. W?'s, called upon me, to state the full particulars of the arrangements for my reception into the family of Colonel du B?, to whom I was to be introduced on the morrow; and in the evening, this kind lady sent two gentlemen to conduct me to her residence, when I had the pleasure of being introduced to a small circle of her acquaintance.

In the morning, Mr. F? called upon me, in company with Colonel du B?, when it was settled, that I was to become an inmate, in the family of the latter, on the following day. These gentlemen did me the favour to settle for my journey with the voiturier, and gave him a severe reprimand for his want of humanity; and I took the opportunity of convincing the soldier's wife, who was present, of my sense of her kindness.

I now soon found myself happily situated in the house of Colonel du B?, with whom I proposed to remain, until the approach of spring might invite me to pursue my tour, and under the expectation, in the interim, of improving my health, and acquiring a knowledge of the French language. The former point was admirably promoted by the kind attentions, and domestic arrangements, of Madame du B?; the latter would not fail to result from so extended a residence in a family wholly unacquainted with English, and where necessity, and the force of habit, must concur in instructing me. I cannot, however, but acknowledge the patient assistance which I received from the whole family; and my views were also promoted by a pretty regular attendance on the lectures delivered at the royal college of this place.

Toulouse, in point of extent, is considered the third town in France, but in proportion to that extent, far less populous than many other of its cities: it possesses some good public buildings, as well as modern private houses, but the general appearance is very antiquated; the streets are narrow and dirty, and what is a great annoyance in walking along them, when it rains you are almost sure to be spouted upon from the tops of the houses, in consequence of pipes sticking out to conduct the water towards the middle of the streets.

There are in this city some good squares, particularly the Place Royal, in which are situated the town-house and theatre; the Place St. George; the Place St. Stephen, containing the cathedral; and also the Place de Bourbon, which with its neighbourhood is the more eligible point for the residence of a stranger.

Some of the walks around the town are very fine, but the access to them unpleasant, in consequence of the offensive smells proceeding from the narrow streets in their vicinity; this is particularly the case as you approach the fine bridge over the Garonne.

Lodgings, such as they are, are reasonable, and the necessaries of life, of all kinds, abundant, good, and cheap. The town is supplied with water from the river; this indispensable article being carted about in casks through the streets at all hours. The stranger will also notice a number of asses, which are driven about the town, to supply invalids with their milk.

I declined participating much in the society of the place, but both the French and English residents are sociably inclined. It is not, however, the fashion among the former, to make morning visits, or give dinner parties, but their houses are open for their friends every evening, and on appointed nights they visit in large parties, and amuse themselves with conversation, singing, cards, or dancing.

A theatre was open during a part of the winter, and we had two or three public concerts, as well as a variety of private ones by amateur performers, particularly during the season of the carnival, which finished on the 14th of February, and exhibited all its usual variety of masks, grotesque characters, and buffoonery; these concerts were only given on the Sunday afternoon.

There are a few customs, and points of etiquette, which it may be interesting to notice.

When a stranger arrives at Toulouse, and wishes to enter into society, he leaves his card with the prefect, who, after returning his call, sends him invitations to the public parties, which he gives once or twice in the week, when he has the opportunity of seeing the best company of the place.

I scarcely feel competent to speak of the various ceremonies of the Gallican church here, but when an Englishman dies, it is customary to send the following notice, to the various residents from his country, requesting their attendance at the funeral.

"M?

There is only one burial ground for Protestants, at Toulouse, situated at some distance from the city.

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