Read Ebook: Dogs as home companions by Hochwalt A F Albert Frederick

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Assuming that you have purchased your puppy and taken him home and he is one of those innocent-looking balls of fluffy hair from which a pair of sharp eyes protrude, and short legs carry his wobbly body about. Is it not only natural that everyone of the household will make much over him, if they are normal human beings? It will be noted that even though this bit of dog flesh is still less than twelve weeks old, how readily he will make up with them. A young puppy, still unaccustomed to the rebuffs of the world and the "slings and arrows" of canine fortune has confidence in all whom he encounters. His perceptions are keen, however, and he will soon learn that there are some or at least one in the family to whom he may attach himself as his real master or mistress, and therefore this should be the person to teach him his early knowledge of household etiquette. It should be this person, also, who imposes upon himself or herself the duty of feeding the puppy. Of course this is not entirely essential, but if it is left to one person, it may be generally taken for granted that the youngster will be fed regularly and not too much. When the entire household looks after the feeding, the chances are that he will be too well cared for, and too frequent feeding is one of the banes of dog-keeping. An overabundance of food is more dangerous than too little, although I am no advocate of the starvation plan.

The matter of feeding will be taken up in the next chapter, so let us pass on to the puppy's early education. In the first place, if a secluded nook has been decided upon where he is to sleep nights, he should be introduced to this the very first night. To begin by pampering him is only deferring a duty that must be done sooner or later. Assuming that he has a basket or box in the kitchen, the last thing before he is put to bed, it is well to feed him. At this early stage the last feed in the evening may consist of milk and bread, or any of the puppy meals with milk poured over. Put him in his bed, turn out the lights and leave him. The chances are that he will not remain in his bed, but come out and go near the door communicating with the other apartments of the house, and whine. Go to him, chide him and put him back in his bed, commanding him to lie down. This, of course, he will not understand at once and it is quite likely that for the first three or four nights he will make life hideous by his howling. However, it is surprising how soon he will learn that he must make the best of a new condition, for to him it is an entirely new situation in life. Coming from his litter mates in a home where he has been accustomed to the association of his mother, his brothers and sisters, it is quite natural that the nostalgia, or homesickness, should oppress him. Be firm, however, and make him "stay put" not only the first night, but every night and he will soon be broken of the night howling.

All dogs are naturally cleanly in their habits and it will be noticed that even very young puppies will go some distance away from their nests to obey the call of nature, consequently when the puppy is brought into the home, correct habits may soon be taught. The principal care is to catch him in the act and then remove him summarily from the house. If he persists, a very slight tap or two and a word of reprimand as he is being banished may assist quite materially in making him understand. Some breeds are more easily broken than others. I have found Airedales and cocker spaniels very easy to break of uncleanly habits. Pointers and setters require more time, but on the whole, most of the medium-sized breeds can be broken very readily. The new owner should not lose sight of the fact, however, that he must not be too severe. Firmness and prompt action are the principal requisites that must be kept in mind in breaking a puppy, but brutality never succeeds.

If your dog happens to be a spaniel or one to be used as a sporting companion, retrieving is an accomplishment which is a very excellent one. Any dog will run after a ball if it is thrown from him after his attention is first attracted. If one begins when the pupil is still quite young he may be taught to become a perfect retriever through the "Play Method," as described in my book, "The Working Dog and His Education." When the ball is thrown the command should be given to "Fetch!" The puppy will get the ball nine times out of ten, but he is likely to run away with it and toss it about in play. He should be induced to bring it to you or you must go to him, bring him to where you were standing when the ball was thrown and gently take it out of his mouth, repeating the word "Fetch!" As in the other lessons, reward him with a bite to eat. A little of this play every day will make him enjoy this pastime and in the end he will become a retriever. He may also be taught to retrieve from water in the same manner, although at first the ball should be thrown into the water only far enough so that the puppy need but get his feet wet in retrieving it. It may be thrown out farther and farther as the pupil progresses and in the end he will enjoy this as much as land retrieving, especially if he is a dog of the spaniel varieties. Airedales are also easily taught to become perfect retrievers.

Another lesson which all dogs should learn is to remain at heel. First it is necessary to teach them to lead. Put a collar on the puppy and allow it to remain a day or two before going further. When he is accustomed to this, attach the lead and call him to you. He will likely pull back or buck jump a few times; keep a tight line and allow him to go as far as he likes. When he becomes passive, call him to you and draw in the lead. He may pull back or he may be frightened, but pull him to you and then pet him and reward him with a bit to eat. He will soon learn to lead.

After he once leads well then take him out with you on the street or in the park. If he pulls ahead of you draw him back and give the command "Heel!" He may remain behind for a moment, but dart ahead again in a moment when he thinks you off guard. Check him up and put him back of you once more with the same command to "Heel!" If he goes along in this manner, fairly well after a few lessons, you have accomplished the first step. Later it may be necessary to carry a light switch which should be used on every occasion when the dog attempts to forge ahead. Only a light tap on the nose is necessary, but as it is given the command to heel should also be uttered. In a short time the dog should be taken out without the cord and kept at heel, but if he becomes unruly and does not remain in his position the lead should be immediately snapped into the ring of the collar and he should be given a few more lessons of the earlier kind. Eventually he will understand that he must remain behind his master until the command is given to "Go!" or "Hie on!" and this latter command he will obey without much teaching, for it is the natural inclination of all dogs to run on ahead of their masters, and they will be prompt to take advantage of the permission to do so.

For fuller lessons on breaking, I would suggest that the reader procure a copy of my former book, "The Working Dog and His Education."

With but one dog in the household or on the premises, the question of food is not a serious one. The scraps from the table of a family of four should be sufficient to supply the entire ration of the dog, although occasionally it is advisable to give him a change in the way of scraps of raw beef, large, soft bones to gnaw upon, and by variety it might also be well, say once a week, to procure the meat or trimmings at your butcher's out of which a broth may be made. This is always a wholesome diet, especially if it is poured over stale bread, dog biscuits or any of the bread stuffs that cannot be used on the table.

First of all let me disabuse the reader of the old theory that meat is injurious for the dog. Taking the race as a whole, meat should form the principal diet. The dog is a naturally carnivorous animal and even though he has been under domestication for thousands of years his organs of mastication and digestion have undergone only a very slight, if indeed, any change. With this in mind, the dog owner is enabled to feed intelligently. Naturally, change of environment from his wild state has made conditions different; he does not obtain the amount of exercise that his wild ancestors did, ranging and roaming about the country in search of their daily sustenance, consequently he cannot be fed entirely the same, but nevertheless the idea which through some unknown way became prevalent years ago that meat is injurious to dogs and likely to cause disease is entirely erroneous. The principal point to keep before one is the quantity of food and the frequency of feeding. A dog which obtains considerable exercise in the way of hunting, must have more meat than one that is exercised only an hour or two each day. This is but natural; the man whose profession keeps him indoors does not require the same substantial food of the one who labors in the fields all day, and so it is with the dog. Ordinary intelligence should teach proper discretion in this respect.

Table scraps usually consist of all the necessary concomitants to a good ration. Bits of meat, bread crusts, gravies, vegetables, etc., all go to make up the waste from the table in any ordinary family. Bones, if they are large ones, may be fed, but bones from fish, poultry or small game should be eliminated if for no other reason but the possibility of their causing trouble in the intestinal canal. If one does not believe what trouble this may produce let him take the leg bone of a chicken or lamb, place them on a stone and strike them a sharp blow with a hammer. He will see at once that they are crushed into a hundred tiny splinters. One can readily imagine what havoc this may do if they should lodge in the stomach or intestines of a dog. Perhaps one might feed these bones to a dog throughout his entire life without ill results, but on the other hand, trouble might ensue, hence to be on the safe side, it is better to take no chances.

Vegetables make a good bulk food, but they should be fed very sparingly, and then only in connection with the other food. There is little nutriment in vegetables for a dog; potatoes are of no value and are more harmful than beneficial and the idea that dogs must be fed garlic, tomatoes, onions and the like has been exploded long ago. A very little of these in the regular food is passable, but do not attempt to make a vegetarian of your dog. Corn meal, in its place, is well enough fed occasionally, but as a regular food it is harmful, especially in summer, as it causes skin irritations, because it is too heating. Oat meal is some better, and rice, perhaps, the best of all, but any of these foods should be fed only occasionally. Some breeds, such as Yorkshire terriers, Maltese and the like do very well with little meat and some say they should not have it at all, but even this is questionable.

In large kennels it is well to cook one's own food or make a bread composed of unbolted wheat, a little rice, meat and a few well cooked vegetables, the whole to be thoroughly cooked and then baked into a bread in a slow oven which will cook it through and through so that it will keep for a long time, but the owner of one dog may as well dismiss this as unnecessary. To summarize: feed what the family table offers, procure meat from your butcher occasionally, for the broth and bones previously referred to, and do not overlook the raw meat, which should be shredded or chopped finely and fed three or four times a week in small quantities, for young dogs, but in larger portions for grown ones. It is also well to obtain large bones with the meat still clinging to them. Dogs love to tear the meat from the bones and they also obtain considerable satisfaction in gnawing the bones. Even puppies three months old and under may be fed raw meat in small quantities to good advantage, and from personal experience I have found that puppies thus fed will thrive better than those who obtain little or none of this kind of diet.

For very young puppies the natural diet is milk, hence when you obtain your new dog, assuming that he is three months old or under, see that he obtains an abundance of this, but do not compel him to live on a milk and bread diet entirely. Feed him a dish of this in the morning; and it might be well to give him another small feed of this about ten o'clock, then again at two and so on, until he is fed about five times during the day, but some of the meals should consist of broth and cooked meat, with an occasional feed of raw flesh. Puppies, as they grow older, should be fed less often, and at four months, three meals a day are sufficient. At this stage, the first meal in the morning may consist of milk and stale bread, but the following ones may be of table scraps or the broth made from the meat obtained from the butcher, poured over stale bread of biscuits, giving with the liquid also a sufficient quantity of the meat. At a year old the dog may be fed as any older dog is fed.

The question of frequency of feeding matured dogs has been much discussed. Many kennels feed but once daily and that meal is given in the evening. This should consist of as much in quantity as the dog will eat. The more humane method for grown dogs, however, is to feed a light meal in the morning and the heavy one in the evening. Most dogs thrive well on this, provided they obtain a sufficient amount of meat to keep their natural desire for flesh food satisfied. The dog owner will soon learn how to use discretion in feeding and obtain best results, but those who wish to go further into this food question are cited to my previous book, "Practical Dog Keeping For the Amateur."

As to water, it must be borne in mind that the dog requires water at all times of the day or night and a vessel containing pure, fresh water should always be accessible.

While we all recognize the importance of good food as being conducive to a dog's well being, many overlook the fact that exercise, grooming and washing are almost equally essential. This is particularly true of exercise. No matter how well a dog is fed, no matter what his care may be otherwise, he will become sluggish and out of sorts if he is unable to obtain a sufficient amount of daily exercise and the more that falls to his lot, the less liable is he to disease, for it is a well-known fact among human beings that exercise is one of the essentials of life and by the same token this is so of the dog. Without exercise the animal will not assimilate his food and while the digestive organs will perform their functions for a long time, eventually they will do so under protest, for the food taken into the system is not properly oxidized, drainage is impeded and the general sewerage system becomes faulty. No drugs will regulate this condition of affairs effectively and in time the result of this sedentary life begins to show in the dog's eyes, his coat, and even his nerves. Mange and various eczematous diseases are also likely to appear, and many other disorders are likely to follow. Consequently, if one takes upon himself the responsibility of keeping a dog he must see to his exercise as religiously as he does to his food.

The question may be asked, how much exercise must a dog have in order to keep him in good condition? To this no defined rule can be laid down, for dogs, like humans, vary and one must be governed accordingly. Most young puppies, because of their natural exuberance of spirits, generally move about sufficiently of their own volition, and thus keep in good condition by this very natural process, but as the dog grows older he is not so prone to run and play, and therefore must be encouraged. This exercise, it is scarcely necessary to say, should be given in the open. If the owner of a dog has a back yard where the dog may run and play out in the air and the sunshine, the question of exercise is not a serious one, but people who live in restricted quarters will find it more of a problem.

If one has access to a vacant lot, a common, a park, or other open space where he may allow his dogs to run unmolested, always provided he is at hand to watch them, then the question settles itself, but where this is not possible there is only one other way and that is to take the dog out on lead, walking him from one to three hours, according to the breed and the requirements of the individual, for as previously stated, some dogs require more exercise than others. It should not be forgotten that a dog running at large covers five or six times the amount of ground that he could possibly cover while on lead, and this must be taken into consideration. Naturally this requires time, but one may always find a spare hour or two mornings and evenings that may be utilized in this manner, and thus owner as well as dog obtains good, healthful recreation.

Another good way to exercise dogs in summer is to take them to a pond or river where they may swim about in the water, for nothing brings all the muscles into play better than swimming. Nearly all dogs can be taught to take to water, and some of the breeds as for instance Airedales, the spaniel varieties, and also pointers and setters, dearly love this diversion. After disporting in the water for an hour or so, if a plot of grass can be found nearby where the dogs can roll and dry themselves, it will not only add to the enjoyment of master and dog, but will tend to keep the animals' coats clean.

Another point that should be borne in mind is, all dogs should be allowed to exercise in a manner that is compatible with their natural habits. For instance, a beagle should be taken to the open and allowed to hunt rabbits, a bird dog should be turned loose in the open fields and terriers of every description should be given the opportunity to dig for rats, mice or other "varmints." If this cannot be done every day, the dogs should be given this opportunity at least once a week, especially during the season when this is feasible.

Summarizing, the owner must always bear in mind that a certain part of the day his dog must be allowed the air and the sunshine. Even in winter when there is little sunshine, or on rainy days, the dog will enjoy being out and free for a short time.

Grooming is another very important essential to the welfare of the dog. Every dog, no matter whether he is short or long-coated, should be brushed at least once daily and by brushing is meant good, vigorous friction. For the short-haired varieties a short-bristled brush or a hound glove are the proper implements, and for the long-coated breeds a brush with stiff bristles from one and one-half to two inches long, is very useful. After this brushing, rubbing with the hand will put a polish on the coat that is described by fanciers as "cherry ripe." Wire-coated terriers require some special treatment to keep their coats in show shape, but ordinary brushing daily and plucking of superfluous hair occasionally, will always tend to keep them presentable for every-day life. Not only is this daily grooming essential to keep the dog's coat free from soil and filth, but it tends to keep the blood in circulation, and to ward off skin troubles and also parasites, which despite precautions, will sometimes take up their quarters in the coats of the most genteel dogs.

During the winter it is seldom necessary to wash a dog provided he is groomed daily, but in summer, a bath now and then is very beneficial to most breeds, although owners of some show varieties object to bathing their dogs on the ground that it softens the coat. However, the average owner will do his dog little, if any harm, by washing him once a week during the summer. To wash a medium-sized dog, an ordinary tub or portable tin bath tub will be found satisfactory. The soap used should be selected with some care. Those soaps containing a large percentage of alkali are not advised, nor are the highly scented kinds desirable. The old-fashioned pure Castile is about as good as any and nearly all of the higher grades of tar soaps are good. The latter not only produce profuse lather, but possess excellent cleansing qualities and their ingredients have a salutary effect on the skin and hair. There are also a number of good dog soaps on the market, prepared especially for cleansing and freeing the dog from vermin, both fleas and lice, should they exist. In the summer nearly all dogs will acquire a certain amount of fleas and it is well to use either the prepared dog soaps or some other preparation that will kill the fleas. In this connection it might be said that a good flea exterminator is any of the creosote preparations to be used in one in fifty proportions. That is, to one part of the creosote preparation use fifty parts of lukewarm water. Saturate the entire coat and every part of the body with this preparation, but exercise care not to get any of it in the eyes or mouth. After the dog has been thoroughly saturated in this, he may be bathed with ordinary soap and water. However, the water should always be lukewarm, even in the warmest of weather. Not only will the lukewarm water cleanse more thoroughly, but it will not be so much of a shock as when cold water is used. For rinsing, clear water, a few degrees cooler may be used. Be sure to dry thoroughly with towels, but rub the way the hair lies. After drying with the towels the dog should be well brushed and if the weather is the least cool he should not be allowed out of doors for several hours after the bath unless he is kept in action. It is always well to give the bath several hours after his meals, or just before them; never directly after eating.

Smooth coated dogs are more easily bathed than the long-haired varieties, as they can be dried very readily, but with the long-haired breeds extreme care should be taken in the drying process and the combing out of the coat. It is scarcely necessary to add that the inside of the ears should be well dried. In washing a dog, always begin with the head and work backward. The animal should be stood in the tub and the water applied with a dipper which should be ready at hand for the purpose.

For some breeds, such as Maltese and Yorkshire terriers many prefer the egg shampoo to soap, although Yorkshires may be safely washed with the suds of the soap, by making a lather and immersing the animal in this. The formula for the egg shampoo is to break up and lightly beat four eggs in each pint of water. Naturally, the egg shampoo is beneficial for any dog no matter what the breed, but it may be readily imagined how many eggs would be required to shampoo four or five St. Bernards.

In the event that frequent washing causes the hair to become unnaturally dry, a mixture of glycerine and water, one part in four, is advisable. This may be applied before the dog is thoroughly dried and the final hand rubbing will bring all the sheen, life and luster back to the coat. Some kennel men use cocoa butter in place of the glycerine. This is applied by dipping a comb into the cocoa butter and going through the hair with this after the dog has been dried. This should be followed by vigorous hand rubbing.

Reverting again to fleas, that bane of all dog owners, too much care cannot be taken to prevent these pests from obtaining the upper hand. The bedding must be frequently changed and the sleeping places thoroughly cleansed, but the dog himself must be watched. The creosote preparations are considered the best exterminators and if used once a week in summer, no dog should harbor fleas, provided his sleeping quarters are clean. However, some might object to this preparation on toy dogs and to those the following is recommended: Carbolic acid, one-half ounce; laudanum, one ounce; bicarbonate of potassa, one dram; water, one and one-half pints. Pour a small amount into a hand basin and apply all over the body with a brush or sponge, rubbing it well into the skin. To those who prefer a dry form of exterminator, Dalmatian or Persian insect powder is recommended. The dog should be placed on a newspaper, the powder dusted well into the coat and allowed to remain for a few minutes, after which it should be brushed out while the dog remains standing on the paper. After this process is completed, roll up paper, powder, fleas and all and burn.

Where but one dog, or even two or three are kept in a home, the danger of sickness is very small, especially if the behests as laid down in the preceding chapters are followed. Dogs in the home are not exposed like those which are kept in a kennel where new ones are constantly coming in and going out. Nor is the danger of contagious or infectious disease as great as when the dogs are exhibited at bench shows. Nevertheless, the highly bred dog is a fine-spun piece of mechanism and it is therefore best to know what to do as first aid in case sickness does come. To the novice, however, my advice is, send for the veterinarian, if a good one lives in your vicinity, as soon as you notice something seriously wrong with your dog. If no qualified canine practitioner is available, then seek the advice of some dog expert, but do not resort to all manner of dosing for dosing's sake, as so many do, for in many cases too much medicine has led to more serious consequences than the illness itself.

The principal disorders that the one-dog owner is likely to encounter, are probably distemper, worms, skin diseases, fits and other various temporary stomach and intestinal ailments, most of which right themselves by the administration of a dose of castor oil or some other purgative.

Very frequently a dog will go off form due to overeating or perhaps because of devouring something that was harmful, or possibly because of lack of exercise. In most cases this is only temporary and the animal will doctor himself, provided he has access to grass. Do not be alarmed if your dog eats grass upon occasion, even though he partakes of it copiously. He is simply finding in this green element a nature remedy that will act as a conditioner. Fortunate is the canine that has the opportunity to do this, for he is thus finding a home remedy which is perhaps more effective than the most skilled veterinarian might be able to prescribe.

Sometimes old dogs suffer from constipation and it is well, occasionally, to put a little olive oil in their food, or even resort to a purgative. One of the best ever-ready remedies I know of is equal parts olive oil, cascara sagrada and castor oil. This may be mixed up and kept on hand indefinitely as there is nothing in it that will spoil. If your dog should go off his feed without showing any symptoms of something more serious coming on, give him, if he is a dog of from thirty to forty-five pounds, a tablespoonful of this night and morning for four or five days, and he will soon come back to his natural form. For smaller or larger dogs the dosage should be graded accordingly. All dog owners, however, should know when a dog is coming down with something serious. One of the most dreaded ailments is distemper, a contagious disease which may be communicated either by direct contact with a dog which has distemper, by being put in a place that was recently occupied by a distempered animal, or by associating with a dog which might be himself immune, but which had recently come from a place where he was exposed. In this manner such a dog is able to carry the disease even to some distant locality. Thus many dogs have been subjected to disease through their companions which were exhibited at bench shows, and which, though immune themselves, carried it home to their kennel companions.

First of all it should be said that the normal temperature of the dog is from 100 to 100-1/2 degrees when taken under the forearm or inside of the thigh. Taken per rectum it is one degree higher. This temperature may vary some in the larger and the smaller breeds, but it is the general average. If the dog appears listless, apathetic, refuses to eat and possibly begins to sneeze or water at the eyes, if his temperature has gone three or four degrees above normal, then it may be taken for granted that he is in the first stages of distemper. On the other hand, he may only show the dullness and the high temperature; there may be no discharge from the eyes or nose, but a dry, husky tell-tale cough may be noted. Any of these forms are the symptoms of distemper and the victim should be isolated at once and the first act should be to administer a liberal dose of castor oil. At this stage I have found it very efficacious to give quinine and hyposulphite of soda, each in two-grain doses, either together or one following the other within half an hour, four times a day. The dog must be placed in a warm and dry room and should not be allowed to go out for anything. The room should be kept at a temperature of seventy degrees, but must be ventilated by windows opening from above so that there can be no draughts with which the victim will come in contact. The disinfectant used should also be some dry form, such as the various sanitary sawdust preparations that are on the market. Any dampness in the room is detrimental to the patient. The principal thing to remember in distemper is good care, for it will be found more effective than medicine, whether given in serum form or by mouth. The dog's strength must be kept up and to this end eggs, broth, and even finely chopped up raw beef in small quantities will be beneficial. Some kennel men object to the beef, but nevertheless many a dog will eat this where he refuses everything else and certainly nothing is more nutritious than beef. Every symptom must be combated as it arises and many complications are likely to set in. One thing must always be kept in mind, and that is, to make the dog take nourishment, for once he refuses to eat, then the case is practically hopeless.

Those who prefer the serum treatment should begin giving it, as per directions, subcutaneously, with hypodermic syringe. There are several good serums or vaccines on the market, but the one that I have had the most experience with is that put up by a Detroit laboratory. This firm makes not only a curative vaccine, but one known as a preventative. It is useless to give the prophylactic or preventative after the dog has once been exposed. Rather await the earliest developments and then begin with the curative and give the six doses as per direction. Begin with bulb number one and follow up at the intervals indicated until all have been given. In the meantime, however, exercise the usual care in the way of even temperature in the place where the patient is confined and in the matter of diet. This is imperative, no matter what treatment is being used. The prophylactic or curative treatment consists of three doses. It is also given with hypodermic syringe, subcutaneously. It is well to keep this serum on hand to use if one expects to show his dog or run him in field trials, but the treatment should be given at least a month before the time he is to appear in public. The success of this serum treatment seems to be general, although many breeders have no faith in it. This may be due to the fact that they begin too late or failed to follow instructions. The treatment is supposed to combat all symptoms that arise in the most virulent cases of distemper.

The worst complication of all distempers is that affecting the nervous system; the brain and its membrane may become inflamed and fits follow, or the spinal cord and its membranes are attacked, in which event paralysis or chorea, or sometimes both occur. These can be overcome, but it is a long drawn out and a very uncertain thing. Generally, chorea occurs after the virulent phase of the disease is passed and it is mostly due to too early exposure. The patient should not be allowed to go out of doors or get excited in any way until the temperature has been normal for at least ten days.

Common sense and good nursing win out more times than all the medicine, but the complications as they arise must be combated. For instance, the eyes must be looked after. The discharge should be washed away frequently during the day with a warm boracic acid solution by dissolving one teaspoonful of the boracic acid in half a pint of warm water. The following lotion should be used afterward as it will help keep the eyes clear:

Chinosol 3 grains Water 6 ounces

As the dog recovers from the distemper and the eyes have that opaque appearance so often noted, use an ointment made of 1 grain yellow oxide of mercury mixed with one dram of vaseline. Drop a bit about the size of a pea into the corner and rub well under the lids. Sometimes red pustules will appear all over the underbody and occasionally on all parts of the body. This should be treated with the ordinary mange remedies. At other times the disease attacks the bowels, which must then be looked after. Try bismuth in ten grain doses for medium-sized dogs. If this does not stop the diarrhea, then the following mixture might be effective:

Powdered Extract of Kino 1 dram Powdered Ipecacuanha 8 grains Powdered Opium 6 grains

Mix and divide into twelve pills.

Dose, from one-half to two pills, according to the size of the dog, four times a day. After the acute stage is passed, then a good tonic is desirable and for this purpose either Le Roy's Condition Pills, Sergeant's or Glover's are useful.

If the dog is not already wearing a chest jacket make one for him at once. Sometimes strong liniments are effective. But one of the simplest things to use is hot lard and turpentine. Grease the chest well with this, wrap flannels around him and put the jacket over all. Apply fresh turpentine and lard every two hours, until the breathing is easier. The following is a very good formula to use internally:

Extract of Belladonna 1/2 grain James' Powder 4 grains Nitrate of Potash 8 grains

Extract of Gentian, enough to make one pill

For medium-sized dogs make up twelve pills with the above ingredients and give 1 three times daily. If the fever does not subside readily it might be well to give them drops of aconite in a tablespoonful of water, every three hours. Perpetual vigilance is necessary in the successful combating of pneumonia and as in every other phase of distemper, care and good nursing are most important. For a more extended treatise on distemper, "Dogcraft," third edition, will be of great benefit to all dog owners.

There are numerous remedies that may be used very effectively for the various kinds of worms, such as areca nut, santonin, pink and senna, kamala, etc., but I believe the safest plan for the novice is to procure any one of the reliable proprietary remedies that are on the market, for it will be less trouble to give these and there is little danger of going wrong, which might be the case were the neophyte to dabble with unknown drugs.

A dog affected with hook worms usually grows very thin, is dull and apathetic, his coat is harsh and unnatural, his eyes lack fire and he has little or no ambition, but the greatest tell-tale sign of all is his gums and the mucous membrane of his eyes. Instead of being a healthy pink, they become white and waxy. When the gums and mouth are in this condition, then it is time to begin treatment for hook worms.

The more alarming cases of fits are seizures which attack highly-strung young dogs of an extremely nervous temperament. These fits usually attack the animal when he is out at exercise and they cause such violent contortions that many an ignorant person might suppose the dog to be mad. A dog suffering in this way, may be going along nicely when suddenly he will utter a distressing cry, stagger a few times and fall down in convulsions. While in this condition he will snap wildly at anyone or anything near him. Unless secured his next proceeding is to get up and run; he seems to be wholly deaf to the voice of his master and does not even recognize him. Sometimes, after recovering from the attack, he will be unable to distinguish his master for several hours. The owner of a dog subject to such fits should take prompt measures to secure him while he is in one of these paroxysms, or he will run amuck when he arises and there will be difficulty in catching him. It is such dogs which frequently cause the reports of mad dogs being in a neighborhood and many a poor innocent victim is dispatched, an innocent sacrifice, immolated on the altar of ignorance. Naturally, the owner of the dog is not likely to have medicines near at hand when his dog is thus attacked, and in such a contingency, the best thing to do is to dash cold water on his head and in his face, continuing this for several minutes. Get the dog home as soon as possible, then administer a dose of castor oil, or the preparation recommended for constipation, namely, equal parts olive oil, castor oil and cascara sagrada. After this, begin a course of bromide; the dosage being from two to fifteen grains according to the size of the animal, to be given twice daily. The food should be nourishing, but not too stimulating, and in small quantities at a time; it is well to feed three times daily, each meal to be about one-half an ordinary one. Remove all causes of nervous excitement and build up the dog by common-sense treatment.

The first symptoms are a rise in temperature from two to three degrees above normal. The dog will constantly lick himself at some particular spot which is probably the place where he was bitten and inoculated. The disposition of the victim undergoes an entire change. The cheerful one becomes morose and sullen, the quiet one is restless, and the ordinarily good-tempered dog quarrelsome and inclined to hide in dark corners, although when called will generally come to his master and probably be very affectionate. Frothing of the mouth, as generally supposed, is not a symptom of the rabid dog. The mouth may be more moist than normal at first, but it soon becomes dry and of a very dark red color. The rabid dog is very much inclined to attack others; the timid pet without provocation will attack others much larger than himself and after biting his victim will emit a peculiar howl, which when once heard will never be mistaken. The rabid dog's voice undergoes an entire alteration which is one of the decided characteristics of the disease. It begins with a peculiar sharp bark and ends with a dismal howl. If the animal obtains his liberty he will wander for miles on a kind of dog trot, with head and tail lowered, going out of his way to attack dogs and other animals, but usually remaining away from human beings, unless they interfere with him. In a day or two he will return to his home. He will refuse any kind of food, but he will gnaw at sticks, stones, timber or anything that may be near him. He will drink water until his throat becomes so swollen that it is impossible for him to swallow, but even then he will attempt to drink by putting his nose in a pail or basin of water. He becomes weaker rapidly and if not killed, will die in four or five days.

As I have said, rabies is very uncommon and many kennel men have gone through life without ever having seen a case, though it is the height of folly to dismiss the subject on this account and proclaim there is no such disease. It is very real and should be guarded against. There are many cases of pseudo rabies that one hears about through the daily newspapers which are merely the creations of some fanatic or ignorant persons who would not recognize the true from the false if they saw them.

Flowers of sulphur 4 ounces Oil of tar 2 ounces Carbolic acid 2 drams

Add this to twelve ounces of linseed oil and stir well in order to thoroughly mix the ingredients. Apply to affected parts or abrasions of the skin. It is scarcely necessary to say that when this ointment is applied to the dog's coat he must be forbidden to house unless one wishes to have his rugs, carpets and furniture ruined.

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