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Building the foundation 1 Preparing the logs 1 Dimensions of the building 2 Framing the corners 3 Round-notch corner 4 Other log corners 7 Door and window jambs 12 Floor joists 12 Laying the wall logs 12 Window and door openings 14 Window and door frames 16 Roof framing 22 Shake roofs 23 Partitions 23 Flooring 24 Interior wood finishing 25 Calking 25 Chinking 27 Chinkless log cabin construction 28 Milled-log construction 31 Hewing timbers 31 Fireplace framing 31 Oiling and painting 35 The finished structure 35 Furniture 39 Chairs and stools 39 Bed and bunk 39 Chest and buffet 47 Settee 47 Dining table 49 Table, bench, book rack, and wood hod 50 Building plans 53 Additional information 56

BUILDING THE FOUNDATION

A building should have a good foundation, and a log structure is no exception to the rule. For the sake of economy in labor and material it is sufficient, in some instances, to place small buildings on piers of concrete or rough native stone, but usually it will be more satisfactory to use continuous walls of stone masonry or concrete to provide uninterrupted support for the logs and thus avoid their tendency to sag. These walls, however, should be provided with small openings for the circulation of air to prevent the wood from dry rotting. Furthermore, the continuous foundation wall has the additional advantage of preventing rodents from getting under the building. In no case should the logs be placed directly upon the ground since wood tends to decay when in contact with the earth.

The two end walls of the exterior foundation should be higher than the side walls in order to offset the difference in level of the logs on adjacent walls, the end-wall logs being half their thickness higher than those on the side walls.

In building a log wall the chief problem is in closing the opening between each pair of logs. There are various ways of doing this, but only those regarded as most satisfactory will be described in this publication. The width of such openings is affected by several factors: The manner of placing the logs upon each other; the type of corner used where two walls meet; the openings for doors and windows; and the natural shrinkage of wood in the process of drying.

PREPARING THE LOGS

The selection of straight, smooth, even-sized logs is the prime consideration . Top diameters should be as uniform as possible, but as a rule not less than 10 nor more than 12 inches. The taper should be as slight as possible. For logs longer than 40 feet, the top diameter may be less than 10 inches in order to avoid an excessive diameter at the large or butt end.

Cedar, pine, fir, and larch, in the order named, are most desirable for log construction. All knots, limbs, or bumps should be trimmed off carefully when the log is peeled. It is best to cut the logs in late fall or winter, for two important reasons: Logs cut in spring or summer peel easier, but crack or check to an undesirable degree while seasoning. Insect activity is dormant during the winter months; hence, if the logs are cut and seasoned then, they are less liable to damage by insects or rot-producing fungi.

Logs should be cut, peeled, and laid on skids well above the ground for at least 6 months before being placed in the building. This may not always be possible, but it is a good rule to follow. Logs should be stored in a single deck with 2 or 3 inches between them to permit complete exposure to the air. Logs having a sweep or curve should be piled with the curve uppermost so that their weight will tend to straighten them while they are drying. Where the skidding space is limited, logs may be double-decked, using poles between tiers. Unrestricted air circulation materially aids seasoning.

Sort the logs carefully before starting construction, using the better ones in the front or other conspicuous walls of the building. If the logs are not uniform in size, the larger ones should be placed at the bottom of the walls.

DIMENSIONS OF THE BUILDING

For practical reasons the dimensions of a log building are the inside measurements taken from one log to the corresponding log in the opposite wall. Outside dimensions vary somewhat with the size of the logs, thus accounting for the use of inside measurements. Where projecting corners are desired, logs should be at least 6 feet longer than the inside dimensions of the building. In erecting the walls, the logs should be kept even or plumb on the inside faces if it is desired to finish the interior with wallboard or plaster.


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