: The Gourmet's Guide to Europe by Bastard Algernon Newnham Davis Lieut Col Nathaniel - Dinners and dining Europe; Restaurants Europe Reference

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? ? la Parisienne. Ailerons de Volaille ? la Tzar. Cailles ? la Lucullus. Salade Durand. Ecrevisses de la Meuse ? la nage. Cr?pes Suzette. Dessert. Champagnes. Clicquot Brut, Pommery Drapeau Am?ricain. Gde Fine Napol?on.

Caviar. Consomm? Viveni. Mousseline de Soles au vin du Rhin. Queues d'Ecrevisses ? l'Am?ricaine. Escalopes de Riz de veau Favorite. Perdreaux Truff?s. Salade. Asperges vertes en branches. Coupes aux Marrons. Friandises.

In the afternoon the long passage with its chairs, carpets, and hangings all of crushed strawberry colour is filled with tea-drinkers, for the "5 o'clock" is very popular in Paris, and the Ritz is one of the smartest if not the smartest place at which to drink tea. In the evening the big restaurant, with its ceiling painted to represent the sky and its mirrors latticed to represent windows, is always full, the contrast to a smart English restaurant being that three-quarters of the ladies dine in their hats. Sometimes very elaborate entertainments are given in the Ritz, and I can recall one occasion on a hot summer night, when the garden was tented over and turned into a gorge apparently somewhere near the North Pole, there being blocks and pillars of ice everywhere. The anteroom was a mass of palms, and the idea of the assemblage of the guests in the tropics and their sudden transference to the land of ice was excellently carried out. I give the menu of another great dinner at the Ritz because, not only has it some of the specialities of the house embodied in it, but that it is a good specimen of what a great dinner should be, being important but not heavy:--

Caviar frais. Hors-d'oeuvre. Royal Tortue Claire. Cr?me d'Artichauts. Mousseline d'Eperlans aux Ecrevisses ? l'Am?ricaine. Noisettes de Ris de Veau au fumet de Champignons. Selle de Chevreuil Grand Veneur. Pur?e de Marrons. Poularde de Houdan Vend?me. Sorbets au Kirsch. Ortolans aux Cro?tons. Coeurs de Laitues. Asperges vertes en branches. Sauce Mousseline. Ananas voil? ? l'Orientale. Friandises. Corbeilles de Fruits.

VINS.

Ch?teau Caillou 1888. Ch?teau L?oville Lascases 1878 . Lanson Brut 1892 . Ch?teau Yquem 1869. Grande Fine Champagne 1790 .

I am told that Sylvain's remains a good dining place, but I have not been within its doors since the days when it attained celebrity as a supper place in favour with the butterfly ladies of Paris.

Across the River

Summer Restaurants

The Bouillon Riche, just behind the Alcazar, with its girl waiters I have generally found even more haphazard than Ledoyen's. Its food is neither noticeably good nor is it indifferent.

This is the menu:--

Melon. Potage Ambassadeurs. Hors-d'oeuvre. Truite Gel?e M?connaise. Ris de Veau Financi?re. Demi-Vierge en Chaud-Froid. Poulets de Grain R?tis. Salade de Romaine. Asperges Froides. Coupes Jacques. Dessert. Petites Fraises.

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