: The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks in 1836 Vol. 1 (of 2) by Pardoe Miss Julia - Turkey Social life and customs

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OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

The Golden Horn--Stamboul in Snow--The Sera? Bournou--Scutari--Galata--First View of Constantinople--St. Sophia and Solimani?--Pera--Domestication of Aquatic Birds--Sounds at Sea--Ca?ques--Oriental Grouping--Armenian Costume--Reforms of Sultan Mahmoud--Dervishes--Eastern Jews--Evening--Illuminated Minarets--Romance versus Reason--Pain at Parting--Custom House of Galata--The East versus the West--Reminiscences of the Marseillois Functionaries--The British Consul at Marseilles--The Light-house at Syra--The Frank Quarter--Diplomatic Atmosphere--Straw Huts--Care of the Turks for Animals--Scene from Shakspeare Page 1

Difficulty of Ingress to Turkish Houses--Steep Streets--The Harem--The Tandour--The Mangal--The Family--Female Costume--Luxurious Habits--The Ramazan--The Dining-room--The Widow--The Dinner--The Turks not Gastronomers--Oriental Hospitality--Ceremony of Ablution--The Massaldjhe--Alarm in the Harem--The Prayer--Evening Offering--Puerile Questions--Opium--Primitive Painting--Splendid Beds--Avocations of a Turkish Lady--Oriental Coquetry--Shopping--Commercial Flirtations--The Sultana Heyb?toullah--A Turkish Carriage--The Charshees--Armenian Merchants--Greek Speculators--Perfumes and Embroidery 16

Turning Dervishes--Appearance of the Teki?--The Mausoleum--Duties of the Dervishes--Chapel of the Convent--The Chief Priest--Dress of the Brotherhood--Melancholy Music--Solemnity of the Service--Mistakes of a Modern Traveller--Explanation of the Ceremony--The Prayer--The Kiss of Peace--Appearance of the Chapel--Religious Tolerance of the Turks--The French Renegade--Sketch of Halet Effendi, The Founder of the Teki? 40

Merchants of Galata--Palaces of Pera--Picturesque Style of Building--The Perotes--Social Subjects--Greeks, European and Schismatic--Ambassadorial Residences--Entr?e of the Embassies--The Carnival--Soir?es Dansantes--The Austrian Minister--Madame la Baronne--The Russian Minister--Madame de Boutenieff--The Masked Ball--Russian Supremacy--The Prussian Plenipotentiary--The Sardinian Charg? d'Affaires--Diplomacy Unhoused--Society of Pera 56

The Greek Carnival--Kassim Pasha--The Marine Barrack--The Admiralty--Palace of the Capitan Pasha--Turkish Ships and Turkish Sailors--More Mistakes--Aqueduct of Justinian--The Sera?--The Arsenal--The "Sweet Waters"--The Fanar--Interior of a Greek House--Courteous Reception--Patriarchal Customs--Greek Ladies at Home--Confectionary and Coffee--A Greek Dinner--Ancient and Modern Greeks--A Few Words on Education--National Politeness--The Great Logotheti Aristarchi--His Politics--Sketch of his Father--His Domestic History--A Greek Breakfast--The Morning after a Ball--Greek Progress towards Civilization--Parallel between the Turk and the Greek 65

Difficulty of Obtaining an Insight into Turkish Character--Inconvenience of Interpreters--Errors of Travellers--Ignorance of Resident Europeans--Fables and Fable-mongers--Turkey, Local and Moral--Absence of Capital Crime--Police of Constantinople--Quiet Streets--Sedate Mirth--Practical Philosophy of the Turks--National Emulation--Impossibility of Revolution--Mahmoud and his People--Unpopularity of the Sultan--Russian Interference--Vanity of the Turks--Russian Gold--Tenderness of the Turks to Animals--Penalty for Destroying a Dog--The English Sportsman--Fondness of the Turks for Children--Anecdote of the Reiss Effendi--Adopted Children--Love of the Musselmauns for their Mothers--Turkish indifference to Death--Their Burial-places--Fasts--The Turks in the Mosque--Contempt of the Natives for Europeans--Freedom of the Turkish Women--Inviolability of the Harem--Domestic Economy of the Harem--Turkish Slaves--Anecdote of a Slave of Achmet Pasha--Cleanliness of Turkish Houses--The Real Romance of the East 86

Bath-room of Scodra Pasha--Fondness of the Eastern Women for the Bath--The Outer Hall--The Proprietress--Female Groups--The Cooling-room--The Great Hall--The Fountains--The Bathing Women--The Dinner--Apology for the Turkish Ladies 129

Cheerful Cemeteries--Burial-ground of Pera--Superiority of the Turkish Cemeteries--Cypresses--Singular Superstition--The Grand Champs--Greek Grave-yard--Sultan Selim's Barrack--Village of St. Demetrius--European Burial-ground--Grave-stones--The Kiosk--Noble View--Legend of the Maiden's Tower--Plague Hospital of the Turks--The Plague-Ca?que--Armenian Cemetery--Curious Inscriptions--Turkish Burial-place--Distinctive Head-stones--Graves of the Janissaries--Wild Superstition--Cemetery of Scutari--Splendid Cypresses--Ancient Prophecy--Extent of Burial-ground--The Headless Dead--Exclusive Enclosures--Aspect of the Cemetery from the Summer Palace of Heyb?toullah Sultane--Local Superstition--The Damn?d Souls 138

Character of the Constantinopolitan Greeks--The Greek Colony at the Fanar--Vogoride, Logotheti, and Angiolopolo--Political Sentiment--Chateaubriand at the Duke de Rovigo's--Biting Criticism--Greek Chambers--"What's in a Name?"--Custom of Burning Perfumes--The Pastille of the Seraglio--Turkish Cosmetics--Eastern Beauty 157

The Kourban-Ba?ram--Politeness of Mustafa Effendi--Depressing Recollections--Unquiet Night--Midnight March--Turkish Coffee--A Latticed Araba--The Mosque of Sultan Achmet--Beautiful coup-d'oeil--Dress of the Turkish Children--Restlessness of the Franks--The Festival of Sacrifice--Old Jewish Rite--The Turkish Wife--Sun-rise--Appearance of the Troops--Turkish Ladies--Group of Field Officers--The Sultan's Stud--Magnificent Trappings--The Seraskier Pasha--The Great Officers of State--The Procession--The Sultan--Imperial Curiosity--The Ch??k-Islam--Costume of the Sultan--Japanese Superstition--Vanity of Sultan Mahmoud--The Hairdresser of Halil Pasha--Rapid Promotion--Oriental Salutations--Halil Pasha--Sa?d Pasha--Unruly Horses--The Valley of the "Sweet Waters"--Pera 171

The Military College--Achmet Pasha and Azmi Bey--Study of Azmi Bey--His grateful Memories of England and the English--The Establishment--The Lithographic Presses--Extemporaneous Poetry--Halls of Study--Number of Students--Mathematical Hall--The Sultan's Gallery--The Mosque--The Mufti--The Turkish Creed--The Imperial Closet--The Gallery of the Imperial Suite--The Retiring-Room--The Printing-Office--The Hospital--The Refectory--The Professor of Fortification--Negro Officers--Moral Condition of the College--Courtesy of the Officers--Deficiencies of the Professors--The Turks a Reading People--Object of the Institution--Reasons of its Failure--Smiling Enemies--Forlorn Hope--Russian Influence--Saduk Agha--Achmet Pasha--Azmi Bey--Apology for my Prolixity 194

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