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CHAP. PAGE
I GAMES AND SCHOOL 1
II THE CONCEITED YOUTH 17
V THE SORCERER 44
VI A SANDALWOOD CHURCH, AND AN INCIDENT 53
X KORONA, A HILLSIDE VILLAGE 112
List of Coloured Plates
TO FACE PAGE Delena Children 8 Two Convenient Handles 8 "I Protest!" 9 Parent and Child 9 Would he Take a Prize? 24 Throwing the Spear 25 Whip-tops in Season 25 Paroparo 28 The Snake Game 29 Delena School Group 29 The Cuscus Game 36 A Fine Frizzy Head 37 A Friend Lends a Hand 37 A Tight-laced Dandy 44 Bringing in the Firewood 44 Bridal Procession 45 "Out like a Coal-scuttle Bonnet" 45 Firing Pots 52 Making Pots 52 Thatchers at Work 53 Delena House 53 Dressed up in Paint and Feathers 56 Cooking Supper 56 The Cradle 57 Waiting for Mother 72 The Front Steps 72 Papuan Treasures 73 Cooking Food under the House 73 Miria the Sorcerer 76 Delena Church 76 Nara Village and Church 77 Queen Koloka 77 Nara Dancers 84 Delena Man at Nara Dance 84 Who is He? 85 Round the Rocks 85 Breakfast on the Beach 88 The Papuan Tailor 88 A Long Drink 89 Oa 89 Hisiu Girls in their Best 104 Morabi Village 104 Bad Walking: Over the Mangrove Roots 105 Fafoa with her Boy and Papauta 105 Scramble in Front of Timoteo's House 120 A Widower 121 A Crocodile 121 Kopuana School 136 Delena Mission House 136 Delena District Teachers 137 Motumotu Man 137 A Well-oiled Amazon 152 Ume and the Crocodile 152 Miria Making Fire 153 The Blow-pipe 153 The Kaiva-Kuku 168 Native Surgery 168 Basket-making at Delena 169 Smiles 169
Games and School
Most visitors begin their Papuan experiences at Port Moresby, but you begin yours at a smaller place, where I have spent the last seventeen years. The village is called DELENA, and you can find it on the shore of Hall Sound. Nothing grand will impress you as you draw near to the shore, but no matter at what time you land you will find a crowd of young children running to meet you; no matter what your age, whether you are man, woman, boy or girl; no matter what the time of day, you will be greeted with "Good-morning, sir," and little hands will go up to the salute, many of them as awkwardly as though the joints belonged to wooden Dutch dolls. These are the youngsters I want to introduce to you first.
Several things will attract your attention. First, perhaps, that they have no clothes such as we wear. They do not need them and are content to be clothed for the most part in mud and sunshine. Neither mud nor sunshine allows much scope for originality in fashion, but you will notice that the ordinary originality comes in in the way the hair is served. Many of the youngsters will have their heads shaved clean. Some will have two tufts left, one in front and one behind, like convenient handles to hold on by. Some have a ridge left along the top of the head, like a cock's comb. Some have alternate bands of hair and bare scalp, and some the full bushy head of hair which is so distinctive of the Papuan.
As a rule they keep to the patterns they learnt from their fathers, but one day in school I saw a stroke of decided originality. A little fellow came in with a new pattern, and gradually I worked out the bare lines into the first three letters of the native alphabet, A, E, I, and then followed this dialogue:--
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