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Territory of Sarawak--History of the Country--Raja Brooke and Muda Hasim--Rebellions in Sarawak--Brooke proclaimed Raja--Chinese Insurrection--Military and Naval Establishment--Exports--Progress of Sarawak--Death of Sir James Brooke 24

Travel in Borneo--Travelling Boats--Leave for Matang-- Our Crew--Alligators--Mosquitoes--Matang Bungalow--The Garden--Ascend the Mountain--The Waterfall--A Nasty Jump--View from the Summit--Snakes--Return to Kuching 44

The Rejang Residency--Wild Tribes of the Interior--Start for Rejang--Timber Ships--Sibu--Attack by Katibus--A Dinner Party--The Fireship--Kanowit--"Jok"--Kanowits' Dwellings--Human Heads--"Bones" and "Massa Johnson" 58

Leave Kanowit--Scenery--War Canoes--Arrive at Kapit-- Wild Tribes--Kayan Burials--Head Feast--Lat--His Family--Tattooing--The Sumpitan--Kayan and Dyak War Dances--The Kok-Goo--The Bock Expedition to Central Borneo--Cannibalism--Return to Kuching 75

Sport in Borneo--The Orang-Utan--His Habits--Start for Sadong--A Rough Journey--Sadong--The Fort and Village--L. Capsized--The Mines--Our Cook--The Abang--Start for Mias Ground--Our Hunt for Orang--Lost in the Forest--Leave for Sadong--An Uncomfortable Night--Small-Pox--Manangs--A Dyak Don Juan--Return to Kuching 93

Preparations for Departure--Leave Sarawak--A Squall--A Dutch Dinner--Batavia--Weltereoden--Life in Java-- Buitenzorg--Koerapan--Dutch Soldiers--A Review--Modes of Execution in the Archipelago--The World-Wide Circus--Return to Singapore--Leave for Europe--Gibraltar 114

Cadiz Custom-House Officers--Spanish Courtship-- Marketplace--Leave for Seville--Jerez de la Frontera-- Seville--Pilate's House--Las Delicias--Triana--Madrid-- Bull Fighting--"Espadas"--A Bull Fight--Frascuelo-- Cruelty to Horses--Leave for Paris--A Stormy Passage-- Home Again--Adieu 128

ON THE EQUATOR.

Thanks to the small experience gained from a former voyage to these parts we successfully resisted the efforts of our outfitters to supply us with, in addition to what was really necessary, almost every useless thing ever heard of, from a cholera-belt to a velvet smoking suit. We were, however, resolved to take nothing more than was absolutely necessary, as on a journey of this kind nothing is more embarrassing than a large amount of luggage. A small but complete outfit was therefore got together, which was easily carried in one small overland trunk, one small portmanteau for cabin use on board ship, and a gun-case each. This we afterwards found ample to contain all the necessaries required.

On the evening, then, of the 13th of April, we stood on the platform of the Charing Cross Station, awaiting the departure of the mail train for Dover, and--our luggage duly registered for Paris--we ensconced ourselves in a smoking-carriage, and lit up the fragrant weed, not sorry that we were really off at last.

Among our number was also an amusing Yankee, fresh from the States, and bound for Singapore, who announced his intention of "getting to windward of those 'Maylays' before he'd been long in the clearin'."


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