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MONTENEGRO
PAGE
Why I went to the Balkans--The road to Montenegro--Cettinje and its petroleum tins--About the blood-feud--England and Montenegro--Warned not to attempt to go to Albania--My guide a marked man--The story of Tef--A woman's fickleness, and its sequel 19
The Palace at Cettinje--A cigarette with the Prince--The policy of Montenegro--A confidential chat--His Royal Highness's admiration for England--His views upon Macedonia--He urges me not to attempt to go to Albania, but I persuade him to help me--His Highness's kindness--Souvenirs 29
NORTHERN ALBANIA
Wildest Albania--Warnings not to attempt to travel there--I decide to go, and take Palok--Prince Nicholas of Montenegro bids us farewell--On the Lake of Scutari--Arrival at Skodra--Passports, rabble, and backsheesh--Photographing the fortress in secret--Treading dangerous ground--Albania the Unknown 41
My friend Pietro--Visit to his house--His wife and sister-in-law unveil and are photographed--Scutarine hospitality--Forbidden newspapers--I get one in secret--The Turkish post office--I want to visit the Accursed Mountains--Difficulties and fears--The Feast of the Madonna--Christians and Mohammedans--My first meeting with the dreaded Skreli--Shots in the night 58
The Skreli a lawless tribe--No man's life safe unless the chief gives his word--Vatt prophesies a rising against the Turks--Our walks and talks--Our meeting with our neighbours the Kastrati, and with D?d Presci their chief--A girl who avenged her husband's death--The significant story of Kol--Manners and customs of the wild tribes--Farewell to my good friend D?d--An incident a fortnight later 81
BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
Through Dalmatia to Herzegovina--Over the Balkan watershed--Bosnia and Sarayevo--A half-Turkish, half-Servian town--Austrian persecution of the Christians--Some astounding facts--A land of spies and scandals--The police as murderers--A disgrace to European civilisation 95
How spies work in Bosnia--Secret agents dog the stranger's footsteps--My own experience--Fighting the spy with his own weapons--To "nobble" the foreigner--How an unfavourable book was purchased by the Austrian Government--Bribery of Press correspondents--A country worse than Russia--Some suggested reforms--The secret policy of Austria in the Balkans 108
SERVIA
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