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PREFACE p. ix

I FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL Pp. 1-3

II Loads--A set of useful pack-saddle cases--Provisions and scientific outfit--Clothes and shoes--Medicines--Under way--The first march--Servants--How I came to employ faithful Chanden Sing pp. 4-10

IV The Raots--A slippery journey--Superstitious notions--Anger and jealousy--Friends--To the homes of the savages--Photography--Habitations Pp. 17-26

V A pilgrim from Mansarowar Lake--The spirits of the mountains--A safeguard against them--Tibetan encampments--The Rajiwar--A waterfall--Watermills Pp. 27-34

XX Dr. Wilson joins my expedition for a few marches--What misdeeds a photographic camera can do--Weighing, dividing, and packing provisions--Two extra men wanted--The last friendly faces Pp. 120-122

XXX Spying our movements--Disguised sepoys--A gloomy look-out--Troublesome followers--Another march back--An amusing incident Pp. 174-177

XL More robbers--The friends of Tibetan authorities--A snap-shot--A meek lot--Prepossessing female and her curious ways--The purchase of two yaks Pp. 220-224

XLI Tibetan coats, hats, and boots--Why a Tibetan prefers to leave half the chest and one arm bare--Ornamentations--Manner and speech--Ignorance and superstition--Way of eating--Jogpa women and children--Head-dress Pp. 225-230

XLII A Daku's strange ideas--The ridge between the two lakes--Black tents--Confronting the two lakes--A chain of high peaks--Gombas--Change in the weather Pp. 231-234

XLV Friendly Lamas--Chanden Sing and Mansing purified--Mansing's sarcasm--Pilgrims to Mansarowar and their privileges--For luck!--Outside the Gomba Pp. 242-244

XLVI Entering the Lamasery--The Lama's dwelling--Novices--Were we in a trap?--Images--Oblations--Urghin--The holy water, the veil of friendship, and absolution--Musical instruments, books, &c.--God and the Trinity--Heaven and hell--A mystery Pp. 245-248


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